Front wheel drive wheel bearing replacement cost

[GreeCguy]

I posted a little while ago about my 1995 Oldsmobile Cutlass (Scrambolina) and it's noisy wheel bearing. Noise is getting louder, (like an angry dog watching the mailman make his way up the street) very loud on a left hand turn and getting to the point I can hear it while driving down the road. I'm pretty sure it's days are numbered.

I've never replaced a wheel bearing on a front wheel drive car. Watched a couple of "Youtubes" on the subject and looks pretty involved, (plus, you apparently have to take it to a shop and have the old bearing pressed out and a new one pressed in). Because of all this, I'm thinking of taking it to a local shop and simply paying them to do the work. Problem is, I have no idea how much that will cost. Does anyone have any idea how much a shop would charge me to fix this thing? Any wisdom or advice would be greatly appreciated.

 

[bdcardinal]

Call and ask. They should be able to give an estimate over the phone if they use AllData.

 

[sciphi]

Take a look at the new bearing on a parts site, and see if it's the bearing is an integrated hub, or only the bearing. The integrated hub can be DIY'ed with the correct tools. A separate bearing is likely shop only.

 

[The_Jeff]

If the hub is pressed in or otherwise inconvenient (like huge torx wrench required) get a whole "spindle" from a junkyard, sometimes called the knuckle. Then just pop the ball joint, tie rod end, and unbolt the strut.

edit, bolts in:

 

[itguy08]

On the wife's Escape the dealer charged about $300 for the front bearing replacement and new ABS tone ring as it broke when they were taking the old one out.

 

[SwampSurvivor]

Originally Posted By: eljefino
If the hub is pressed in or otherwise inconvenient (like huge torx wrench required) get a whole "spindle" from a junkyard, sometimes called the knuckle. Then just pop the ball joint, tie rod end, and unbolt the strut.

edit, bolts in:

My jeep has a setup like that. They are pretty easy to replace.

Some vehicles have one time use axle nuts.

 

[GreeCguy]

Originally Posted By: Miller88
Originally Posted By: eljefino
If the hub is pressed in or otherwise inconvenient (like huge torx wrench required) get a whole "spindle" from a junkyard, sometimes called the knuckle. Then just pop the ball joint, tie rod end, and unbolt the strut.

edit, bolts in:

My jeep has a setup like that. They are pretty easy to replace

Some vehicles have one time use axle nuts.


A couple of questions. First of all, how do I tell if it's pressed in or not before I remove it?

Secondly, isn't this bearing connected on some way to the CV joint, if so, how do I separate that?

I like the junkyard idea as that fits my pocket book very nicely

 

[sleddriver]

I replaced one on the sled. The sealed bearing was integrated into the hub. It was a messy job being on the front, due to brake dust, but straightforward. I went OEM on the part. Cost about $225 if I remember right.

I could wiggle the old one in my hand. Lesson: Don't wait. If it's howling, it needs to be replaced. You don't want this coming apart when you're on the highway...

 

[threeputtpar]

Originally Posted By: GreeCguy
Originally Posted By: Miller88
Originally Posted By: eljefino
If the hub is pressed in or otherwise inconvenient (like huge torx wrench required) get a whole "spindle" from a junkyard, sometimes called the knuckle. Then just pop the ball joint, tie rod end, and unbolt the strut.

edit, bolts in:

My jeep has a setup like that. They are pretty easy to replace

Some vehicles have one time use axle nuts.


A couple of questions. First of all, how do I tell if it's pressed in or not before I remove it?

Secondly, isn't this bearing connected on some way to the CV joint, if so, how do I separate that?

I like the junkyard idea as that fits my pocket book very nicely

You have a unit hub and bearing that's one piece, so it just bolts into the steering knuckle with 3 or 4 bolts from the trans side of the knuckle. The procedure is to loosen the big axle bolt/nut in the middle of the hub/bearing while the car is on the ground, remove tire and anything else that will be in the way of accessing the bolts for the hub/bearing, and probably tapping or using a slide hammer on the wheel studs to get the hub/bearing seperated from the knuckle. No need to remove the CV halfshaft from the trans, just let it rest in the open area of the knuckle and put it back into the new bearing/hub upon installation.

Installation is reverse of removal. Use a new axle bolt/nut as the one you took off is probably a one time use fastener.

 

[partspro]

I did one recently on a Ford Windstar, not really a big deal. Look at your local AZ or AAP for rental tools to help break the old one loose from the knuckle once you have removed the bolts from the back. Replace the axle nut with a new one and make sure you torque the nut for the correct bearing preload.

 

[default]

You'll need a 250 ft/lb tq wrench to properly tighten the hub nut. If it ever lived in the rust belt or on the beach I would reccomend paying a mechanic to do it, it takes hours to beat one outwith an air chisel and then more time filling the marred up mating surface flat again.

 

[The_Eric]

Bearing torque for a 1995 Cutlass Supreme is 184lbs.

 

[TMoto]

Use a good six-point flank-drive socket on the three bolts on the back side. Spray them with penetrating oil first and let them soak. A few raps with a hammer helps too. Rounding off the hex head of the bolts adds more fun and games especially when they're not easily accessible.

 

[asand1]

For a 95 cutlass ceira from rockauto.
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=4287093&cc=1217180

It bolts in. Pretty easy DIY. They start at $33.79. Cutlass Supreme uses the same style.

 

[The_Eric]

Updating the torque spec... The chart I'm looking at shows a Cutlass Supreme (184lbs) or a Ciera (103lbs).

 

[The_Jeff]

Originally Posted By: TMoto
Use a good six-point flank-drive socket on the three bolts on the back side. Spray them with penetrating oil first and let them soak. A few raps with a hammer helps too. Rounding off the hex head of the bolts adds more fun and games especially when they're not easily accessible.


If you can see rusty bolt threads poking through the front of the bearing, hit 'em with penetrating oil or just grind 'em down to bare metal flush with the old bearing. Helps them back out easier.

 

[Merkava_4]

That 1995 Olds is probably not too much different than my 2000 Buick.

The easiest way to go is to replace the hubs. Then if you want, you can take the old hubs to a machine shop and have them press in new bearings and save those old hubs for the next replacement interval.

The best thing to do is either buy a factory service manual, or get an AllData subscription. Since the factory service manual is $200, and the AllData subscription is $16.95 per year, most people go with the AllData subscription.

What I like to do is disconnect the spindle from both the strut and the lower ball joint. Then I just pull the spindle with the attached hub off the end of the drive axle.

But first you gotta separate the splined axle shaft from the splined hub and the way you do that is back off the axle nut so that it's passed the end of the axle, then give the axle nut a big tap with a sledge hammer. When you see the axle push in from the hub, that means it's now free. Now unthread the axle nut all the way off.

After that, now proceed to unbolt the spindle from the strut, lower ball joint, and the outer tie rod end. You have to disconnect the sway bar end links too so that you can swing the lower control arm down out of the way. Loosen the lower control arm to frame bolts. Swing the lower control arm down and pull the lower ball joint stud out and away from the spindle. Pull the spindle off and change out your hub. Reassemble.

 

[Robby]

I just replaced both front hub assemblies, brake rotors and the pads on my '97 Olds Cutlass Supreme.

Before doing the job, closely inspect the CV joint rubber gaiters for any sign of holes or cracks. If they are not in excellent condition, the shaft will need to be removed for replacement of the gaiter(s). CV joints will typically outlast the rest of the mechanicals if dirt is kept out. As long as dirt is kept out and CV grease is kept in, even very high mileage joints will probably last the rest of the car's life.

The CV joint stub shaft has a 35mm self-locking nut. 1-3/8" works as 1-3/8" is 1.375" and 35mm is 1.370". 0.005 makes no difference; I used a rented 36mm socket as I did not have my 1-3/8" socket with me. Worked just fine.

As my Olds has the 16" cast aluminum wheels they have to be removed to get at the nut. The suggestion has been made to mount the (steel) spare wheel for nut removal and torqing. I just jacked the corner of the car up.

Don't take the nut off yet; loosen it until the locking collar is out past the end of the shaft. If the shaft doesn't push in readily, give it a shot of penetrant and whack it with a mallet to break any rust. Once loose, remove the nut. These nuts are supposed to be replaced by new ones but who does?

Turn the steering wheel to swing the knuckle out for easier access to the 15mm hex sliders. Remove them and hang the caliper up by a piece of wire or something. Don't let it hang by the hose.

With a T-60 adapter, remove the caliper bracket screws and lay the bracket aside.

Slide the rotor off. If it is stuck, more penetrant and a thump with the mallet should pop it off. If that's not enough, apply prying force to the rotor and give it another whack. There are special giant sized drum and disc pullers. They are not heavily constructed as all they are for is to apply tension. Once tight, whacking the rotor with a mallet should pop the rotor loose. If the rotor is so stuck that a really heavy duty gear puller is used, it may break the disc from its center.

With a 15mm socket (prefer 6 point, not 12 point) and appropriate extension bars, unscrew the four screws that hold the hub flange to the knuckle.

Carefully pull the hub assembly from the CV joint shaft. Take care not to damage the ABS toothed ring. Shop cloths are used to set the toothed ring on in the knuckle.

Wirebrush all rust and dirt from the mounting surface on the knuckle and from the CV shaft splines. When sliding the hub assembly in, make sure the ABS sensor pins go into the two small holes in the top of the hub flange. A little thin oil on the splines will help.

Install the 15mm screws. The first 3 go in finger tight. When all 4 are in place, check the ABS sensor pins again and torque the 4 screws to the spec.

Install the brake rotor. It will be loose on the wheel studs and hub flange. My rotors were cut below minimum thickness and unevenly worn, causing juddering when braking hard.

Hold the caliper bracket in place and put the 2 T-60 screws and bushings in. Torque to spec. Support the end of the wrench handle to avoid overhanging load as it tends to pop the star adapter out of the screw head and make the torque wrong.

If you are replacing the brake pads, now is the time. With a pad spreader, apply some force to the old pads. Put a clear vinyl flexible tubing on the screw head nipple. Crack the 10mm hex bleeder screw open and spread the pads. When the pistons are almost pushed back into the caliper bores, but while brake fluid is still seeping out, close the screw snugly. Not too tight; it is hollow and can be twisted off.
You can just push fluid back into the master cylinder reservoir but it is best to let the old fluid (probably the original - who ever changes brake fluid?) out. Discard it. Don't put it in the master cylinder reservoir! Old fluid likely has water in it and any corrosion that developed in the caliper cylinders.

Remove the old pads. The piston (inner) side pad comes out easily. The outer pad has to be pried off. Make sure the worn pad warning finger is correct; the outer pads are left and right. The outer pad installs with a whack with the mallet to force the retainer spring over the edge of the caliper.

Making sure the pads are separated enough to go over the rotor disc, install the caliper into the bracket. See that the slider pins gaiters are correctly located and install the slider pins. There is special grease for these. Good idea to coat the pins. The gaiters will probably go over the exposed part of the pins. If not, work them in place. They keep water and dirt out of the sliders and their bores in the caliper. Torque the 15mm hex head pins to spec. They fit loosely in their bores. The caliper is free to float slightly.

Torque the CV shaft nut to spec. 184 ft-lbs. It is best to support the ratchet or the head of the torque wrench. I used the car's scissors jack. If your wrench goes only to 150 ft-lbs., maybe the auto parts store has a higher torque wrench for rent.

Reinstall the wheel. Torque the lug nuts in a star pattern, first to tight, then lower the car. Next tighten them to 100 ft-lbs.

Pump the brake pedal with short strokes until the pedal is firm. Long strokes are not advised as pushing the master cylinder piston cups deeply in the cylinder can damage them from crud or corrosion, requiring the master cylinder to be replaced.

Avoid hard braking for a couple of hundred miles for the pads (and new rotors if installed) to wear in.