‘17 Civic - humming noise/bad bearing?

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My wheel stud saga ended with the shop replacing two broken studs along with the wheel bearing on the front driver side.

Prior to this (probably last couple of thousands miles), I’ve started noticing humming noise between 30-40 mph (mostly noticeable on the smooth pavement). Now that the left side bearing is replaced, and tires are rotated (normal wear all around).

I lifted the car and spun the wheels. It sounds like the passenger side is louder, but I’m not sure. , I still hear the noise. No apparent play vertically/horizontally. Can yall have a listen and let me know what you think?

What else can cause the noise?

New bearing



Suspect bearing
 
might be a brake pad touching the rotor.. normally bad bearing sounds like a rumble at speed
if on the front it may change with steering inputs.
 
Impossible to differentiate from brake noise, and 90% chance it's pads or shoes dragging.

Unless it's REALLY bad, you're not likely to hear a bad unit bearing by hand like this, especially if the brakes are intact
 
Impossible to differentiate from brake noise, and 90% chance it's pads or shoes dragging.

Unless it's REALLY bad, you're not likely to hear a bad unit bearing by hand like this, especially if the brakes are intact
Fair enough. What else can be the root/cause of the humming noise? It doesn’t appear to change when casting in neutral vs in any gear. CV axle? Anything else?
 
Prior to this (probably last couple of thousands miles), I’ve started noticing humming noise between 30-40 mph (mostly noticeable on the smooth pavement).

A bad bearing doesn't just make noise between 30-40 MPH.
Are you saying that you don't notice it above 40 MPH?
 
A bad bearing doesn't just make noise between 30-40 MPH.
Are you saying that you don't notice it above 40 MPH?
It’s not AS noticeable at higher speed cause it blends in with road/tire noise (my civic is LX, bare bones, so the sound deadening is almost non-existent)
 
Impossible to differentiate from brake noise, and 90% chance it's pads or shoes dragging.

Unless it's REALLY bad, you're not likely to hear a bad unit bearing by hand like this, especially if the brakes are intact
I suppose i can remove the wheel/caliper/pads/rotor and see what is sounds like. Would that help diagnosing? or just have the bearing replaced.

I'm not sure what else can be causing the noise hence asking for other directions to look into.
 
I suppose i can remove the wheel/caliper/pads/rotor and see what is sounds like. Would that help diagnosing? or just have the bearing replaced.

I'm not sure what else can be causing the noise hence asking for other directions to look into.

Just remove the caliper, remove the pads from the bracket, then reinstall the wheel and spin it again. You don't have to remove the rotor or bracket; there's nothing to rub against at that point.
As @Number_35 mentioned, make sure the shield isn't bent and making contact with the rotor.

Just remember to put it back together. ;)
 
You may have to wait until it gets worse, play develops, or a noticeable temperature difference can be observed.

Or maybe chassis ears

Or the parts cannon, which is my least favorite option
 
You may have to wait until it gets worse, play develops, or a noticeable temperature difference can be observed.

Or maybe chassis ears

Or the parts cannon, which is my least favorite option
That’s painful. I’m quite sensitive to “foreign” noises and it certainly gets on my nerves now that I hear. Wheel bearing is relatively inexpensive and probably could try to do it myself (would need to buy or rent bearing press tool).

I’ve looked at other suspension components and nothing seems to be off - no torn boots or worn bushings.

This civic being a 6 speed manual, can any transmission bearing cause the humming noise?
 
Try some hard cornering to the left and right. Bearing noise will change in intensity as the load changes upon it.
 
Prior to this (probably last couple of thousands miles), I’ve started noticing humming noise between 30-40 mph (mostly noticeable on the smooth pavement). Now that the left side bearing is replaced, and tires are rotated (normal wear all around).
The former bolded suggests this noise was happening BEFORE you had one bearing replaced.

The latter suggests the noise has occurred EVER SINCE the bearing was replaced.

I ask because of course it's not unheard of (pun?) for a NEW part to create a NEW problem
 
The former bolded suggests this noise was happening BEFORE you had one bearing replaced.

The latter suggests the noise has occurred EVER SINCE the bearing was replaced.

I ask because of course it's not unheard of (pun?) for a NEW part to create a NEW problem
the humming noise was present BEFORE the driver-side bearing replacement. I initially was hoping this would be tire-related; however, the wheel studs were broken during the tire rotation, and it wasn't completed. The tire place referred me to the shop that replaced the broken wheel studs and the left side wheel bearing. I've had the tires rotated right after, and observed no change as far as the noise presence goes. The newly installed wheel bearing is not a suspect. Hope this makes sense
 
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the humming noise was present BEFORE the driver-side bearing replacement. I initially was hoping this would be tire-related; however, the wheel studs were broken during the tire rotation, and it wasn't completed. The tire place referred me to the shop that replaced the broken wheel studs and the left side wheel bearing. I've had the tires rotated right after, and observed no change as far as the noise presence goes. The newly installed wheel bearing is not a suspect. Hope this makes sense
Ok thank you! You could still look for temp differences with an IR gun, assuming a brake isn't dragging excessively.

And yeah, there are theories about a bad L/R bearing getting noisier depending upon if you swerve L/R at speed. I'm not convinced they're gospel but perhaps data to be added to other factors.
 
Spin one side at a time using something to hold the other wheel still. An old tire / wheel works well under one side.
Then you can sit behind the wheel with the window up, and listen to differentiate the sounds heard.
Be sure to disable the traction control before you do this.
 
Ok thank you! You could still look for temp differences with an IR gun, assuming a brake isn't dragging excessively.

And yeah, there are theories about a bad L/R bearing getting noisier depending upon if you swerve L/R at speed. I'm not convinced they're gospel but perhaps data to be added to other factors.
I didn't use the IR gun (i will later today), but both side felt equal (temperature wise) when touching with my hand.

I did try moderate/safe swerving left and right while driving at 30-40 mph, however, I wasn't able to notice any difference. I appreciate your feedback!
 
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I didn't use the IR gun (i will later today), but both side felt equal (temperature wise) when touching with my hand.

I did try moderate/safe swerving left and right while driving at 30-40 mph, however, I wasn't able to notice any difference. I appreciate your feedback!
Well if nothing was detectable by hand an IR gun probably won't help. IME one caliper always drags a little more than the other, so small differences side to side are common.

If there are wheel center caps that can be removed, I might try to shoot the hub behind the axle nut. But again, 10, 20, 30F doesn't prove much about a bearing as it could be brakes.
 
ne side at a time using something to hold the other wheel still. An old tire / wheel works well under one side.
Then you can sit behind the wheel with the window up, and listen to differentiate the sounds heard.
Be sure to disable the traction control before you do this.
The spin test I've posted was with one side jacked up and wheel freely spun by hand. Is your suggestion to jack up the front with the wheels hanging, have someone put the car in the gear and accelerate, while i'm listening to each side?
 
Yes spin it with the drive train, you can't mimic it well by hand.
You sit in the car - you shouldn't need an assistant.
 
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