Front wheel bearing

[labman]

Well, it looks like my 02 Cavalier needs a new right front wheel bearing. I checked and the spindle nut was easy to get loose. In fact, I tightened it up.

Next challenge will be the 3 Torx head bolts holding the hub to the steering knuckle. My old, cheap Torx bit won't begin to move them. Who will have a good one, NAPA, Sears, or do I need to try to chase down a Snap On dealer?

The book says to remove the axle. Do I really need to do that? Can I just use a puller to pull the hub off the axle?

 

[Stu_Rock]

I have done this job before on old A-bodies. In those cars, the hub would just slide off the bearing if there wasn't too much corrosion between them. The Torx bolts were T-55--any respectable Torx bit, 3/8 extension, and breaker bar would work. My bit was from Lisle and the other stuff was probably Craftsman.

I would expect a newer J-car to be similar.

For the A-body cars with ABS, I noticed that all the book instructions were wrong--Haynes, Chilton, and even the official GM book. Back then I was active on A-body forums, so I wrote new instructions for the group: link.

 

[mechtech2]

Clean the torx area.
Soak it with loose juice.
Keep it our of the female heads, however.
Many torx sockets have rounded tips, and don't seat all the way -they slip.
When necessary, I have had success with grinding the end flat to make it seat deeper and it will get a better grip.

Also, a good tip is to put the socket in nice and square, and hit it hard to seat it and help break the threads free [remember the sauce first].

 

[labman]

Well I am taking a break, but the job is going well. The auto parts store had a Timken in stock for $86, made in America. That can't be too bad. Could have had something else tomorrow for half as much.

The Torx head bolts came out without too much trouble. Should have listened to you on the T 55. I had checked and thought my old junky T 50 fit them, but had to fall back on my junky T 55, but it got them. I started with spray silicone. Then some 5/8'' stock and a hammer. I then put the Torx bit on my breaker bar and gave the whole thing a few smacks. It then yielded within reason.

Disaster. The Timken comes with a seal that must be installed behind the steering knuckle. That means removing it or the axle.

 

[Nick R]

Return the timken. Go to NAPA, buy the $90 SKF. goes right in.

 

[onion]

That suspension/wheel bearing setup is pretty much the same as on my old Corsica. Matter of fact, the wheel bearing is the same part number.

I replaced one of mine last year. Just remove the axle nut, caliper, brake rotor, and three torx bolts- and it should slide right out. I had to beat on the end of the shaft A LITTLE with a brass hammer, but it didn't take much. There's no seal behind the steering knuckle on an OEM style bearing- can't say if an aftermarket bearing has something different.

The bearing I installed was bought used off Ebay from an '04 Pontiac Sunfire with 40k miles. I took a chance on a cheaper used part because OEM bearings are generally better quality (I've had bad luck with cheap aftermarket bearings), and this car is a beater anyway.

 

[labman]

Originally Posted By: rudolphna
Return the timken. Go to NAPA, buy the $90 SKF. goes right in.


Well if I didn't have the car apart.

 

[labman]

Well the job is done except for a test drive. It was a little more involved due to the grease seal. I was able to pull the steering knuckle away from the axle after only removing the ball joint stud. The old bearing still seems to turn smoothly, but has play in it. It was making noise. Who knows how soon it would have left me calling for a tow.

 

[PF52]

Originally Posted By: labman
Disaster. The Timken comes with a seal that must be installed behind the steering knuckle. That means removing it or the axle.


I wonder if there's any harm in leaving the old seal in there are re-using it, unless its obviously damaged of course. I've always faithfully replaced them when I did wheel bearings, but I usually already had the knuckle out of the car (or at least disconnected from the ball joint for replacement as well). I've noticed some newer cars don't even have the seals at all.

Good choice on the Timken.

 

[labman]

No such luck. Although the factory shop manual shows the separate seal behind the knuckle, the OEM bearing didn't have it as somebody suggested. The job is done, the car drives fine, even if it was more work.

My wife can drive it to work in the morning, and I can drive my truck to my breakfast meeting.

I vaguely remember prying the steering knuckle out for some reason when I did a front wheel bearing on my 92 Grand Am 10-12 years ago. It must have been the same. All well that ends well.

Yeah, I find the Timken reassuring. An American made old brand name, just like Fram. I do remember their ads in the Saturday Evening Post in the 50's.

I replaced several rear wheel bearings in the Grand Am at $100 each due to the ABS sensor. I was buying them at AAP. Maybe if I bought Timken, the first would have been the last.

 

[Kestas]

Seals are wear items. You probably could get away with reusing the old seal if you didn't have to move it. They usually get ruined during removal.