Fried my Fluke???

[JHZR2]

Hello,

I have a fluke 179, which I use for various projects.

Today, I think that I had the leads set up for a 400mA test configuration (max, IIRC), and set the meter to volts and tried to find battery voltage. Didnt work (duh!), and so I fixed which thing the leads were attached to - worked fine and still does.

However, after that, I tried to do a test of current later on, and I cannot get a DC current with my leads set up under the 400mA setting and 'mA' on the selector dial.

If I use the 10A fused connection and set the dial to 'A', then it works, and I get a reading.

I took the meter apart, and pulled the fuse for the low current test circuit. I used the ohmmeter to test for continuity, and the fuse checked out... Id think that if I had blown the fuse, that it would check out as infinite resistance.

Also, it should be noted that when doing loose checks of current draw on my battery, I usually see a small spark at hookup. The size depends on how careful and direct I am. With the leads and setting on 10A, I see that small spark. With the leads on the 400mA setting, I dont see a spark. So it seems that there is an issue with my low current channel. But what? If the fuse checks out, then what next?

Did I kill the channel somehow?

Thanks,

JMH

 

[pcoxe]

I haven't been inside of a Fluke model 179, but I think my Fluke 83 has two current fuses, one for the 10A range and a smaller, more easily blown fuse for the mA function. See if you don't have another fuse lurking somewhere around the battery slot.

 

[JHZR2]

i tested the low-current fuse for continuity, and it checked out.

I suppose it would be smart to stick the 10A fuse in the 400mA circuit and do a short test with a known draw (like on my car) to doubly verify...

Thanks,

JMH

 

[GMGuy]

Sometimes a fuse will test fine with an ohmmeter, but fail in circuit. Ask me how I know. On second thought, don't, still gets me mad. =-)



Alex.

 

[Jim 5]

Originally Posted By: GMGuy
Sometimes a fuse will test fine with an ohmmeter, but fail in circuit. Ask me how I know. On second thought, don't, still gets me mad. =-)



Alex.


This would be my guess as well. My thought is that continuity test doesn't draw significant current. The continuity through the fuse could be through a micro-hair of fuse material. I would likely try a replacement fuse of the correct amperage and see if this clears things up.

If that doesn't solve your problem, I would move to troubleshooting moving parts (few though they may be on this unit). I am not familiar with your multimeter, but if it has a dial for selecting between modes, I would take that apart and see that the contacts are clean and un-obstructed.

If that doesn't solve your problem, then you are stuck with non-moving parts. A friend of mine recovered non-functioning no-moving-parts computer peripherals (like monitors) with 1/2 to 2/3 success by simply opening the unit up and touching a soldering iron to each soldered connection. His theory was that soldered connections especially on pcb's can crack leading to unreliability or failure. He had pretty good luck with that.

I like those fluke units, and almost bought one but opted for a more inexpensive (yet still decent quality) in a Wavetek. I haven't had any trouble with mine in about 10 years of light use.

Hopefully you can resolve this. Let us know how you make out.