Fram XG Observations

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let me start by saying I've been a lurker on this forum for over a year and this is my first post!

Well, I, like the majority of members here, am generally against Fram oil filters due to their sub par construction and premium price. However, we all know the XG series is a compeltely different animal from the rest of the Fram line. Metal endcaps, synthetic media, and the ability to hold a LOT of contaminants,all the things we want to see in a premium filter.

But has anyone noticed that their quality control is still practically nonexistant?

I'm driving a Jeep Cherokee (XJ), and since the filter is horizontally mounted, the drainback valve MUST seal for me. Here's how I test them. I blow into the threaded center section of the baseplate. If air comes back out, either through the drainback valve, or through the baseplate to filter casing seam, I return it to the shelf. If NO air comes out (like blowing through a hose with a plug in the other end) I deem it acceptable and purchase it.

I was at my local walmart the other day, and they had roughly 12 XG8A oil filters on the shelf. I'm sure it infuriates the staff at Wally, but I tore open every XG8A and started testing drainback valves. To my dismay, only TWO of the DOZEN on the shelf actually sealed up properly. Some leaked a little air, some were so bad that it seemed as if there was no drainback valve at all! most leaked through the drainback valve, but a few leaked TERRIBLY at the seam for the baseplate to filter casing.

Wouldn't you think if you were going to offer a premium filter, at a premium price, you'd at least make sure your QC department did their job? I certainly won't stop using the XG series (Running M1 5w40TDT w/XG8A at 10k mi intervals), but be sure to test your drainback valve BEFORE you buy a filter if your filter isn't vertically mounted :-)

~Erik
 
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Fram XG is a good filter for long OCI but the price is too high, Purolator Pure1 is a good filter for medium long OCI up to 10-12k miles and can be bought for less than 1/2 the price of Fram XG.
 
I've even found a ton of M1 filters with faulty drainback valves. Same with K&N, and even Amsoils! So far, the Bosch and P1s almost ALWAYS have perfect drainback valves. I've run into only one out of the dozens and dozens I've tested that had a leaky drainback valve, and just BARELY.
 
I've always wondered why they seal up the XG and HM filters.....anyone know why?

The "High Mileage" filters I can understand being shrink wrapped, since I guess they have some sort of Slick-50-esque stuff (Teflon if I recall) that is supposed to "release itself" into the oil over time, to help the oil last longer, as it's being filtered.....(if you can believe the hype......lol).

Is the extra cost only for the shrink wrapped package? :P
 
The only thing I worry about with oil filters is that they don't fail. And a company that pays for the engine if the filter fails. A fancy filter can't hurt and is probably worth the extra $$$.I have seen more cars that have several hundred thousand miles on them running quick change oil and filters than fancy oil and filters.
 
I don't think the valve's behavior in room-temperature air is going to be anything like its behavior in hot liquid oil. I suspect it's quite possible (perhaps even probable) that an anti-drainback valve that fails miserably with your blowing test might work very well when the valve is immersed in hot liquid oil.

Still, it isn't exactly confidence building when the valves fail this test.
 
They would probably sell more XG's if they didn't say Fram on the filter. It appears to be an excellent filter but many don't want to pay the $9-$10 that I have seen at Walmart and Pep Boys when you can get a Pure 1 for less. Then I checked ebay 2 weeks ago and found a 6 filter case of XG3387's for $30 and change delivered.
 
A self confessed Fram hater with no intention of buying a Fram Walks into Wally World, goes to the automotive section, tears open all the XG's, blows into the valves, then leaves...

Really?
 
Originally Posted By: TTZed
I blow into the threaded center section of the baseplate. If air comes back out, either through the drainback valve, or through the baseplate to filter casing seam, I return it to the shelf. If NO air comes out (like blowing through a hose with a plug in the other end) I deem it acceptable and purchase it.

~Erik


Erik, You have me worried. If you keep blowing into the business end of an oil filter, you are going to show up on the People of Walmart website!

Wow!

757 Guy
 
Originally Posted By: electrolover
you could always go with a M1 or bosch DP. very good filters


Yes, you could buy those filters. You will pay much more for a filter that is no better than the Fram XG in terms of construction. I'll take the double media, stainless steel backing, long OCI over paying $3-4 more for a Bosch or M1 Oil Filter.

Just my opinion,

757 Guy
 
Originally Posted By: LeakySeals

A self confessed Fram hater with no intention of buying a Fram Walks into Wally World, goes to the automotive section, tears open all the XG's, blows into the valves, then leaves...

Really?
I would like to post that picture on the People of Walmart website!!!!
 
Originally Posted By: LeakySeals

A self confessed Fram hater with no intention of buying a Fram Walks into Wally World, goes to the automotive section, tears open all the XG's, blows into the valves, then leaves...

Really?


It's even better than that. He found TWO filters that passed his test. So after finding one to buy, he then tore open and blew nine more?
 
They seal the boxes for the better filters so people don't take the filters and put them in a standard Fram filter box and try to buy them cheap.
 
Originally Posted By: TTZed
I'm sure it infuriates the staff at Wally, but I tore open every XG8A and started testing drainback valves.


Having worked many years in retail I can tell you no one other than perhaps management will care what crazy things you do in the store as long as you don't come bugging them for help
smile.gif


As far as the filters I never tested them as you do but my Tercel would have 1-2 sec of valve clatter on startup if a filter's ADBV was faulty. Some filters tended to start doing this at 4-5000 km or so. The XG Frams rarely did, but if I remember right it did happen at some point. Pretty much anything with a nitrile ADBV was toast by then.
 
I'm a self confessed Fram hater, and there is an Extended Guard on my car right now...and I have another one on my shelf ready to go. Say what you will about Fram filters, the XG filters are actually pretty good.
That said, at the old $7 price point they were a much better buy. For the $9 they charge now, I'll probably go back to motorcraft filters, or stock up on M1 filters when the 5qt+filter deals pop up at auto stores.
 
LeakySeals - you sure know how to skew statements completely out of context. Perhaps you should be an attorney, or heck, maybe you already are.

My intention was to purchase any acceptable XG8As at that time. If every one woulda passed my test, I'd have purchased them all. At that price though, I'll be darned if they aren't going to meet MY standard before I buy them.

In my experience, my very crude drainback test is a good indicator of how it'll perform on the vehicle. About 6 mos ago, I used an M1-301 that failed my drainback test (failed miserably at that), and had chatter at startup, and it'd take about 5-6 seconds for the oil pressure gauge to move. Let it sit overnight, took the filter off, and it was practically empty!

Any filter that passed my oh-so-crude test gives me instant oil pressure on a cold start, even if the vehicle has been sitting for a few days, and not one bit of startup chatter. So, bash it all you want, but it works pretty well for me. So far, the consistently "good" drainbacks have been in the Bosch Premium and Purolator P1s.

~E
 
Originally Posted By: TTZed
My intention was to purchase any acceptable XG8As at that time. If every one woulda passed my test, I'd have purchased them all. At that price though, I'll be darned if they aren't going to meet MY standard before I buy them.

~E


Every filter brand has issues. I picked up 3 PureOnes (2 different models) today. some had over spray of the paint. Some had dents. After I got home, I blew air through the first one I picked up and it leaked a bit. There's never been an issue with any filter when I cut all of them open. This is the same with all brands of the 5 cars/trucks I do oil changes on. Since it leaks does that mean Purolator has poor QC also?
 
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