Why would any other filter be any different? Sounds more like the cap wrench is the issue. Can you get a hand in there? I can usually get the Ultras on and off by hand. Especially if wearing a rubber/Nitrile glove.
Fram Ultra’s Worth the Hassle…?
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I like the Fram grippy stuff because I DON'T have to use a wrench with it. Easy enough to hand tighten and hand remove. Are you unable to get a good grip on it on this particular vehicle?
Looks to me like the XG is a tad bit longer, so he might be having a problem getting his hand into a already tight space to get leverage to remove it. I've ran into this problem myself at times. Everyone's hands are different in size and strength. I've also put on filters "hand tight" only to find they still require more to remove after cooling and heating countless times over the course of the OCI; not often, but every once in a while.
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Every time this comes up the peanut gallery is going on about "you're over tightening it" and "use this kind of wrench" and "that kind of wrench".
It is hogwash...
I've got just about every kind of oil filter wrench known to man and the one that works most constantly well is a cap wrench, in absence of that abomination FRAM puts on their consumer filters. The solution is leave that garbage off -it is for hacks who either do not know how to properly install a filter or don't care. FRAM even came to this conclusion themselves with the FPS line.
Nearly every filter has some sort of tightening spec, in the case of a Honda it is 3/4 turn after gasket contact. They even have hashmarks on the filter. The FSM even tells you which number hash mark to tighten to based on which one you see when the gasket makes contact. VW has a torque spec.
The answer to the OP's question for me is - no it isn't worth the hassle.
It is hogwash...
I've got just about every kind of oil filter wrench known to man and the one that works most constantly well is a cap wrench, in absence of that abomination FRAM puts on their consumer filters. The solution is leave that garbage off -it is for hacks who either do not know how to properly install a filter or don't care. FRAM even came to this conclusion themselves with the FPS line.
Nearly every filter has some sort of tightening spec, in the case of a Honda it is 3/4 turn after gasket contact. They even have hashmarks on the filter. The FSM even tells you which number hash mark to tighten to based on which one you see when the gasket makes contact. VW has a torque spec.
The answer to the OP's question for me is - no it isn't worth the hassle.
Abomination? Hogwash, LOL. I like that stuff on the end. I can get a great grip on it with a nitrile glove on my hand. I love that stuff, whether running a TG or XG. But my filters aren't hard to reach.
Nice thing is that there are lots of choices. I hope OP finds one with dimensions that can be made to work.
Complete with a property calibrated torque specification or torque turn speciation to enable process capability.
Just my $0.02
When it comes to changing the dome end diameter for a cap wrench, very true. I prefer using a fit cap wrench. Last time with a properly installed (not over tightened), per instructions, it was a no go. Just kept slipping on the "grip", frustrating. Broke out the Lisle cam action wrench, it worked. But, that cap wrench does require greater access space to use.
I like the Ultra, think it's a good filter. Grip ok for installation, for removal ime, not so much. Personally, wouldn't be sad to see it go.
The Ultras are not too tough to get off, Gearwrench makes a pretty good nylon strap wrench that turns with a 1/2” extension and ratchet for under $7 on Amazon. It takes off any oil filter, and even plumbing fittings when a pipe wrench won’t fit! Be sure to oil the filter gasket when installing, makes them easier to get off & less likely to stick to the filter base when removing.
IMO Fram Ultras are worth it. One reason I dislike that style of cap wrench, you can't use it when there is grippy stuff on the filter. As others said get a strap wrench or the other type with three legs that can be placed overtop and you won't have those issues.
The other option is to buy those Fram pro models of filter that are the same at Ultras without the grippy stuff and you can continue to use that plastic cap wrench.
The other option is to buy those Fram pro models of filter that are the same at Ultras without the grippy stuff and you can continue to use that plastic cap wrench.
I never go more than 3/4 turn after the base gasket just touches the seat. Have been able to get them off by hand.
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For the most part. Some applications are tight. The 3.6 on my Subaru is really difficult to get the thin metal of a traditional filter wrench over it. The end cap wrench works for that vehicle but it is a snug fit for sure. In this application, pays to be diligent with the hand tightening.
I usually go as hard as I can go hand tight, even without the grippy stuff on ACDelco or Supertech. That stuff does help if your gloves are covered with oil. I never precisely measured it but "hand tight" will usually end up at the spec'd turning requirement based on where the stickers are. However, getting it off I either could barely do it or needed a tool, so I always just bring my 3 prong jaws. The grippy stuff might help getting it off though.
I wonder if access issues in this case are caused by using oversize oil filter? Or is the OP using standard oil filter?
P.S. I heard King King covers some shifts when Godzilla is away. I love my giant channel-lock pliers.
P.S. I heard King King covers some shifts when Godzilla is away. I love my giant channel-lock pliers.
Isn't AAP selling the ultra with out the grippy stuff? The titanium.
Sort of.
It is entirely covered in a textured paint. Its definitely preferable to the sure grip.
https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/cut-open-fram-titanium-fs7317-virgin.328260/
And they are like $15.00...
I use the Fram XG 10060 on a 6.0 LS engine. I purchased an end cap wrench from Walmart that fits perfectly, even over the no slip coating. No issues. 
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