Not my sketch ... but this shows what I'm talking about. Any oil above the filter is trying to drain back to the same level as the oil in the sump.
View attachment 87339
Quit lying Zee...
You know that's your handwriting right there.
Not my sketch ... but this shows what I'm talking about. Any oil above the filter is trying to drain back to the same level as the oil in the sump.
View attachment 87339
Mine's worse, lol.Quit lying Zee...
You know that's your handwriting right there.
![]()
Yes, head pressure, column pressure, hydrostatic pressure (as in the water tank or X feet below the water surface example) ... all basically the same thing.As in hydrostatic pressure - what vertical column height times a fluid gradient gives us - a water tower is an example I like to use along with ear pressure in the deep end of the pool …
It might not be an oil filter problem, but how fast the oil pump is pressurizing the system. Could be a disintegrating oil pump gasket that seals the pump to the engine block. This will cause the oil pump to lose it's seal with the engine block causing air to be introduced into the pump and causing less suction of the oil from the pan. Way to check is to pull the coil wire or pull the fuel pump fuse and crank the engine for about 5 to 10 seconds. Then, put the coil wire or fuel pump fuse back on, crank the engine. If there is no noise, that's the problem.I’m an avid Toyota OEM filter user. I usually buy in bulk and pay under $5 including shipping. Anyways I was in a bind and out of filters so I went to advance and picked up a fram titanium. I will admit that iVe usually gotten a light tap for the first 10 seconds of start up on days below freezing after the engine sat all night, but it’s never been anything of concern and I figured it was the self adjusting hydraulic valve train or whatever they’re called. With the fram filter it sounds like a rod knock that lasts for a solid minute or so and I get it every time the engine is cold, even if it sat for say 3-4 hours. I’m not really a oil filter guy, but I have heard here and there claims of how Toyota filters don’t have the best filter efficiency. I do vaguely remember seeing some decent efficiency claims on the fram box. Is this the down side of using higher efficiency filters? I am using redline 5w30 which I know runs heavy and borderline 40wt but again this wasn’t a problem with the OEM filter. I assume there is less flow so the top end runs dry longer or is this assumption wrong? I was thinking perhaps it could be a bad anti drain valve, but what are the chances the one fram filter I use in the past 10 years has a bad drain valve. Overall I’m disappointed with this filter, especially given how it costs $15. I will most likely switch back to OEM once they come in. I mainly want to share my experience and hear what you guys think.
What about the oil filter adapter that is mounted low on the block, base up filter? Can this do the same? Some have a hollow bolt with orings separating the inlet and outlet lines. The oil filter stays full being base up, but can the entire line down to the pan drain, bypassing the filter? This also means, if true, base up filters do need an adbv. How else do the upper oil galleries stay full.It might not be an oil filter problem, but how fast the oil pump is pressurizing the system. Could be a disintegrating oil pump gasket that seals the pump to the engine block. This will cause the oil pump to lose it's seal with the engine block causing air to be introduced into the pump and causing less suction of the oil from the pan. Way to check is to pull the coil wire or pull the fuel pump fuse and crank the engine for about 5 to 10 seconds. Then, put the coil wire or fuel pump fuse back on, crank the engine. If there is no noise, that's the problem.
Gravity! Plus a siphoning effect, equals drainback.Yes, head pressure, column pressure, hydrostatic pressure (as in the water tank or X feet below the water surface example) ... all basically the same thing.
It sure don’t take a minute to fill the filter. I’d suspect the problem has gotten worse or the filter efficiency is slowing flow to much.Yup, this. If the pump has to re-fill the filter, and the passages above it, first, things are going to be noisier until that's done.
Filter efficiency doesn't slow oil flow ... especially if the revs are low on a start-up. An oil filter is typically about 15 times more free flowing than the engine oiling system. The engine's oiling system is the big flow restricter, by far.It sure don’t take a minute to fill the filter. I’d suspect the problem has gotten worse or the filter efficiency is slowing flow to much.
If the oil drains all the way down to the oil level in the pan, then the oil pump has to prime itself every time. If there is a leak at the oil pump or the oil filter adapter nothing is holding the oil from seeking the lowest level. Even with a perfect adbv.It sure don’t take a minute to fill the filter. I’d suspect the problem has gotten worse or the filter efficiency is slowing flow to much.
No, of course not, but it takes time for the engine to become fully enveloped again, and, if there are hydraulic components that have blend down, they now need to pump back up, and if there's a head of air, that can take a while to get the air out of those devices. This can make noise.It sure don’t take a minute to fill the filter. I’d suspect the problem has gotten worse or the filter efficiency is slowing flow to much.