Dang looks like they changed the forming process altogether
Fram ultra xg7317. Same model as endurance fe 7317. When I cut my titanium open I will fit the leaf spring into the endurance to see if it seals.That’s a whole different shape - right? I agree I bet the feature is controlled in that one- and the tool surface in the die when forming in the punch press holds it flat right there
Probably to save 2 cents per stamping ... lowest bidder, who knows where these come from. Could even be outsourced. Nothing good stays the same.Dang looks like they changed the forming process altogether
I’m thinking as we drive how the ripple chip ones ARE formed. That can’t be a clamping surfaceProbably to save 2 cents per stamping ... lowest bidder, who knows where these come from. Could even be outsourced. Nothing good stays the same.![]()
Maybe the guy running the leaf spring stamping machine use to work in the Ruffles chip factory.I’m thinking as we drive how the ripple chip ones ARE formed. That can’t be a clamping surface
Wish I had one in hand
So drawn free…after stamping out?? Can’t make sense of it
That bypass valve "leaf spring" is more of a bracket than spring and does little more than fill space in the dome end of the filter. Keeping the media in place, but does not coil or apply similar pressure of a coil spring. It's a crappy bypass valve design that I would try to avoid using. I prefer a dome end bypass valve built into the top of the end cap, or the Motorcraft input bypass.Testing this Fram filter in an "opened up" state is NOT the same as judging the "as built" state.
The force of the spring seated against the bottom of the can will push the leaf assembly firmly into the fiber end cap. The "seal" needs only to exist in a very small area. It would be wrong to assume that the seal is needed fully around the flat circumference interface; it can exist around the radiused intersection of the end cap and leaf where it protrudes into the cap.
Sure the leaf spring compresses slightly and puts some compressive force on the guts of the filter. Nothing else holds it all tight together.That bypass valve "leaf spring" is more of a bracket than spring and does little more than fill space in the dome end of the filter. Keeping the media in place, but does not coil or apply similar pressure of a coil spring. It's a crappy bypass valve design that I would try to avoid using. I prefer a dome end bypass valve built into the top of the end cap, or the Motorcraft input bypass.
That's already been explained why multiple times in this thread.Seems to me if it did then hand pressure would close the gaps. That doesn't appear to happen. The gap is the same whether sitting on top or or being compressed with hand pressure.
Can't tell where the oil was leaking at in your post 427. That's a Ruffles style metal-to-metal leaf spring, so it probably leaked oil from there and migrated to the bypass valve down the dome shaped area the valve seals to. I tested a Fram bypass valve like that one and saw no light leakage. Maybe I'll do a liquid test too.Mid 2022?? Ultra XG with gasket.
But if it leaks around the valve itself as indicated in my previous post, does it matter?
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Z6 is right, the coil spring has more travel to hold the element, this is the spring up that you see when you cut a filter open, the 'leaf' spring exerts about the same pressure, but it has less travel.There's some, you just can't notice it like a compressed coil spring. The leaf springs have a very high spring constant, so they only need to deflect a very small amount to get an adequate compressive force. A coil spring needs to compress way more to get the same force, so they "spring" open more when the compression force is relieved. If the leaf spring didn't compress and hold the gut tight together, you'd be seeing a lot more filters that "rattled" because the guts weren't tight.
@Glenda W. … I assume no oil was flooded in the actual bypass valve area if you were looking for just leakage around the leaf spring seal. This was questioned in post 427. Can you please elaborate.
It appears oil poured onto the valve spring directly flowed past the valve. No migration from the lower gap.Can't tell where the oil was leaking at in your post 427. That's a Ruffles style metal-to-metal leaf spring, so it probably leaked oil from there and migrated to the bypass valve down the dome shaped area the valve seals to. I tested a Fram bypass valve like that one and saw no light leakage. Maybe I'll do a liquid test too.
The OG Ultras with the fiber gasket in the end cap won't leak at the leaf spring either. Motorking said the OG Ultra was 80% @ 5u, and without that leaf spring seal I doubt it would be that good.
Fram was going for an "Ultra good" design with that version to maximize efficiency and holding capacity. Ascent's ISO 4548-12 efficiency test showed that.I think the engineers at Fram thought the gasket was warranted or they would not of done it, car manufacturors never add an extra part without a true need for one.
No oil was applied to the bypass valve area. It was carefully applied around the end cap and gap areas. Exactly a thimble full was used. The oil immediately went through the .75 x .020” gaps.@Glenda W. … I assume no oil was flooded in the actual bypass valve area if you were looking for just leakage around the leaf spring seal. This was questioned in post 427. Can you please elaborate.