I have an old dump truck with a Cat 1160 (similar to but predated the more well known 3208). This is a V8 naturally aspirated, mechanical FI, non-sleeved diesel engine. It usually sees a little duty every year but the miles are really low.
Only a couple hundred miles on the last oil change, but also a couple years. When it does run it it will run long enough to get the condensation cooked out. Currently has Delo 400 (non-synthetic) 15W40; and with the low miles this is not even near sooty. The engine also sports twin oil filters (have Donaldson filters on it).
I'm guessing the right thing to do would be to do an oil analysis on it and go from there, but that's almost half way to an oil change dollar-wise.
Are there any additives that are typically used in situations where you will have too much time but low miles on an oil change?
Fortifying Delo 400 with low miles but lotta time.
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JHZR2
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For a big diesel cat UOA is half the cost? UOA can cost as little as two gallons of delo (nearly, say $20), with all the filters and gallons of oil it takes, Id think oil change would be a lot more.
The best bet for extending service is to use LC20. Lube Control acts as an antioxidant amongst other things.
If it isnt overly wet/fuel diluted/oxidized, I'd say why not? But it is very contingent on all those things being the case.
dnewton3
Staff member
I'd concur to get a UOA.
Large sump systems are a great candidate for UOAs, as the cost is very small compared to an OCI.
This will tell you if your current maintenance plan is adequate, or needs tweaking. It may well also confirm or deny any lingering mechanical issues such as contaminant intrusions (fuel, coolant, dirt ...)
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I third the motion on a UOA.
You'd really only need to do it once to see what's happening. Go full boat. TBN, TAN, Oxidation, Nitration. Then you'd know. If you results are anything like those I got, you will then relax and not sweat it any more. If the results are poor, then you know what you need to do and have some idea of a time interval.
If you live in a relatively dry climate, odds are good you can go 2-3 years easily on that oil.
Originally Posted By: Jim Allen
I third the motion on a UOA.
You'd really only need to do it once to see what's happening. Go full boat. TBN, TAN, Oxidation, Nitration. Then you'd know. If you results are anything like those I got, you will then relax and not sweat it any more. If the results are poor, then you know what you need to do and have some idea of a time interval.
If you live in a relatively dry climate, odds are good you can go 2-3 years easily on that oil.
Lube Control LC20 or nothing at all. I <span style="font-style: italic">think</span> the LC20 would do some good in your case. I'm pretty sure nothing else will do anything except waste your money. I know the Chevron oil is good stuff. Just change it every two years.
Thanks for the recommendations.
It's sort of a medium duty engine and holds maybe 3 gallons of oil, but then add two filters to that dollar-wise. One price I got for a UOA with the add on tests that would really be required was $45+! Called Polaris today for a price on their advanced test that included the extra tests and it was $28, which seems more doable.
But, it's been more than a couple years, more like five. I've been rereading the oil articles here on BITOG and elsewhere that seem to indicate conventional oils can age and do bad things just sitting, esp in cold weather.
Might just be best to do what I was trying to avoid in the first place and change the dang oil; and I suppose five years is all you can expect out of the filters. Now if I can just find some $3 filters for it.
dnewton3
Staff member
Our sponsor, Blackstone, can do a full UOA for less than that.
You might also have local sources as well.
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