Ford Racing CM-6731-FL820 C&P

Joined
Sep 4, 2024
Messages
12
2014 6.2L OCI 2500 miles
DSCN3648.JPG
DSCN3647.JPG
DSCN3646.JPG
DSCN3645.JPG
DSCN3644.JPG
 
The 820 looks glue free on the metal end plates of the filter element. I have used the MC 910s in my 2017 Ford Fusion and other Fords that take the 910 for many years, however recently the cut aways of the 910 have shown excess glue on the end plates that has shown up in my oil change pan, so I switched to a NAPA Gold filter this time.
 
have used the MC 910s in my 2017 Ford Fusion and other Fords that take the 910 for many years, however recently the cut aways of the 910 have shown excess glue on the end plates that has shown up in my oil change pan ...
I stopped using Motorcrafts for the same sloppy glue issue.
 
OP, why do you use the racing version?
I use the regular 820S on our 2 supercharged mod motors but the racing version has always seemed overpriced to me.
 
OP, why do you use the racing version?
I use the regular 820S on our 2 supercharged mod motors but the racing version has always seemed overpriced to me.
I agree with you that the 820s is the better value. But these filters match my front skid plate.
DSCF0055.webp
 

Here is the most recent one. Ford Racing CM-6731-FL820 Approximately 2500 miles with Havoline ProDS Full Synthetic 5w-20. 2014 6.2lView attachment 238863View attachment 238862View attachment 238861View attachment 238860View attachment 238859View attachment 238858
Here is what Ford says: https://performanceparts.ford.com/part/CM-6731-FL820
The only obvious difference between it and the FL820 is the weight and thickness of the can and base. It also it a little bit taller.
 
I stopped using Motorcrafts for the same sloppy glue issue.
With the Motorcraft bypass valve near the input wouldn't any glue remain in the filter on the outside of the media? Assuming there isn't excess glue seen during an interior inspection before installation?
 
With the Motorcraft bypass valve near the input wouldn't any glue remain in the filter on the outside of the media? Assuming there isn't excess glue seen during an interior inspection before installation?
There could also be sloppy glue on the end cap at the base end too where the bypass valve is. This one in a Whip City video only has the glue on the dome end, but I think I've seen a few with the glue on the end cap next to the bypass valve. I'd rather just use something that doesn't have glue that will break off in use.

 
One with some glue on the end cap where the bypass valve is located.




Another video showing glue coming off in use. This one looks like some could break off on the clean side of the element. Kind of concerning IMO.

 
Last edited:
Made on the same day as the first one you posted ... must have bought a bunch at a time.
 
Back
Top Bottom