I stopped using Motorcrafts for the same sloppy glue issue.have used the MC 910s in my 2017 Ford Fusion and other Fords that take the 910 for many years, however recently the cut aways of the 910 have shown excess glue on the end plates that has shown up in my oil change pan ...
Nice work. What went back in/on? Thank You
Same filter. I bought a case of them. Oil is Havoline ProDS 5w-20 Full Synthetic.Nice work. What went back in/on? Thank You
I agree with you that the 820s is the better value. But these filters match my front skid plate.OP, why do you use the racing version?
I use the regular 820S on our 2 supercharged mod motors but the racing version has always seemed overpriced to me.
What makes it a "Racing" filter? Higher flow?
Here is what Ford says: https://performanceparts.ford.com/part/CM-6731-FL820
Here is the most recent one. Ford Racing CM-6731-FL820 Approximately 2500 miles with Havoline ProDS Full Synthetic 5w-20. 2014 6.2lView attachment 238863View attachment 238862View attachment 238861View attachment 238860View attachment 238859View attachment 238858
With the Motorcraft bypass valve near the input wouldn't any glue remain in the filter on the outside of the media? Assuming there isn't excess glue seen during an interior inspection before installation?I stopped using Motorcrafts for the same sloppy glue issue.
There could also be sloppy glue on the end cap at the base end too where the bypass valve is. This one in a Whip City video only has the glue on the dome end, but I think I've seen a few with the glue on the end cap next to the bypass valve. I'd rather just use something that doesn't have glue that will break off in use.With the Motorcraft bypass valve near the input wouldn't any glue remain in the filter on the outside of the media? Assuming there isn't excess glue seen during an interior inspection before installation?
I bought a case.Made on the same day as the first one you posted ... must have bought a bunch at a time.