Ford Duratec oil recommendation

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vaboom123

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Hey everyone,

I just picked up a contour svt with a 3.0L swap done to it. It's going to be a fun summer toy and maybe hit the track a few times a year. Just looking for some advice on what oil to run. I believe the factory is a 5w-20. I was thinking about running some schaeffers 9000 5w-30 and using it and really liking it.
 
I've ran 5w-30 M1 for about 80k miles before switching to QSUD 5k miles ago. No complaints with either. Keep an eye on the oil level as you'll want to keep it at the right at the top to prevent oil starvation when you're winding it out on the twisties. Then again, whoever built your 3.0L may have upgraded the oil pan to a better version to help alleviate that problem. Enjoy the new ride and keep her up.
 
Quoted for truth. As a former owner, I kept mine probably 1/2 quart or so overfull. The Duratec pumps so much oil into the heads that it's unlikely that you would whip up the oil if it's overfull.

It's pretty easy on the oil, so any high quality 5W30 should do fine.

I had a turbo'ed 2.5L, FWIW. Yes, turbo'ed. It's a fun car, enjoy. It makes one of the finest noises a V6 car can make.

Originally Posted By: meangreen01
I've ran 5w-30 M1 for about 80k miles before switching to QSUD 5k miles ago. No complaints with either. Keep an eye on the oil level as you'll want to keep it at the right at the top to prevent oil starvation when you're winding it out on the twisties. Then again, whoever built your 3.0L may have upgraded the oil pan to a better version to help alleviate that problem. Enjoy the new ride and keep her up.
 
Thanks for the ideas guys. I picked up some 820s filters for it already. The guy who did the swap did a great job and runs his own shop pretty much dedicated to these cars. He's actually working on a rwd swap on one right now. I believe the motor is out of a 2004, so I think it has the better oil pan.

They def. are fun cars. My buddy and I built a 3l hybrid almost 10 years ago. That car was a blast in his contour.
 
Originally Posted By: meangreen01
Keep an eye on the oil level as you'll want to keep it at the right at the top to prevent oil starvation when you're winding it out on the twisties. Then again, whoever built your 3.0L may have upgraded the oil pan to a better version to help alleviate that problem.


This.... is interesting, to say the least.
Is this a common thing? Did they change the pan on later Duratec's?
 
Originally Posted By: CptnFormat
Originally Posted By: meangreen01
Keep an eye on the oil level as you'll want to keep it at the right at the top to prevent oil starvation when you're winding it out on the twisties. Then again, whoever built your 3.0L may have upgraded the oil pan to a better version to help alleviate that problem.


This.... is interesting, to say the least.
Is this a common thing? Did they change the pan on later Duratec's?


That's more for the old 2.5 duratec. They had issues with spinning bearings and would have oil starvation issues with hard right cornering. Some would run a little more oil to help fix the issues.
 
Originally Posted By: CptnFormat
Originally Posted By: meangreen01
Keep an eye on the oil level as you'll want to keep it at the right at the top to prevent oil starvation when you're winding it out on the twisties. Then again, whoever built your 3.0L may have upgraded the oil pan to a better version to help alleviate that problem.


This.... is interesting, to say the least.
Is this a common thing? Did they change the pan on later Duratec's?


Yes the issue has long been resolved. And come to think of it, as mentioned by Vaboom, it was more of a 2.5L issue as I'm not aware of any 3.0L that had issues.

The 2.5L is still a very good engine. I'm sure many of the spun bearing issues were caused by your typical driver that gets an oil change and never checks the dipstick in between. Combine that with the sporty nature of the SVT and a not-so-forgiving oil level issue and there you have it.

I like my SVT, but 200hp isn't as impressive as it was 13 years ago. One of these days I'll have to go the turbo or 3L(or both, LOL) route, like Vaboom and Java.

Is your turbo still running around out there, Java?
 
I have no idea. I totally cut the cord in 2003. I sold it when my ex-wife left. I knew more about the car than her, hence her affair.

So I try not to get obsessed about things that ultimately don't matter. I hope it is being well maintained somewhere, but after 8 years, I doubt a modified turbo'ed car is still running, or at least not well.

Originally Posted By: meangreen01
Originally Posted By: CptnFormat
Originally Posted By: meangreen01
Keep an eye on the oil level as you'll want to keep it at the right at the top to prevent oil starvation when you're winding it out on the twisties. Then again, whoever built your 3.0L may have upgraded the oil pan to a better version to help alleviate that problem.


This.... is interesting, to say the least.
Is this a common thing? Did they change the pan on later Duratec's?


Yes the issue has long been resolved. And come to think of it, as mentioned by Vaboom, it was more of a 2.5L issue as I'm not aware of any 3.0L that had issues.

The 2.5L is still a very good engine. I'm sure many of the spun bearing issues were caused by your typical driver that gets an oil change and never checks the dipstick in between. Combine that with the sporty nature of the SVT and a not-so-forgiving oil level issue and there you have it.

I like my SVT, but 200hp isn't as impressive as it was 13 years ago. One of these days I'll have to go the turbo or 3L(or both, LOL) route, like Vaboom and Java.

Is your turbo still running around out there, Java?
 
Originally Posted By: javacontour
I have no idea. I totally cut the cord in 2003. I sold it when my ex-wife left. I knew more about the car than her, hence her affair.

So I try not to get obsessed about things that ultimately don't matter. I hope it is being well maintained somewhere, but after 8 years, I doubt a modified turbo'ed car is still running, or at least not well.

Hopefully that car is still around, but a modified forced induction car that falls into the wrong hands can go south quick. Glad you enjoyed it while you had it.

Originally Posted By: meangreen01
Originally Posted By: CptnFormat
Originally Posted By: meangreen01
Keep an eye on the oil level as you'll want to keep it at the right at the top to prevent oil starvation when you're winding it out on the twisties. Then again, whoever built your 3.0L may have upgraded the oil pan to a better version to help alleviate that problem.


This.... is interesting, to say the least.
Is this a common thing? Did they change the pan on later Duratec's?


Yes the issue has long been resolved. And come to think of it, as mentioned by Vaboom, it was more of a 2.5L issue as I'm not aware of any 3.0L that had issues.

The 2.5L is still a very good engine. I'm sure many of the spun bearing issues were caused by your typical driver that gets an oil change and never checks the dipstick in between. Combine that with the sporty nature of the SVT and a not-so-forgiving oil level issue and there you have it.

I like my SVT, but 200hp isn't as impressive as it was 13 years ago. One of these days I'll have to go the turbo or 3L(or both, LOL) route, like Vaboom and Java.

Is your turbo still running around out there, Java?
 
With six quarts of oil in the sump, it's hard to go wrong with a good syn 5W-30. I currently have 5W-30 QSUD. I've also had good luck with various high mileage oils...

*10W-30 can be used in summer, or above 0F, and 5W-20 was back-spec'd for that engine, but I wouldn't use it with some miles and years...
 
Last edited:
Went and picked up some PYB to do a short OCI just to clean things up a bit. The motor only has about 25k on it, but who knows what the previous owner did for their OCI.

Also snagged a couple jugs of PU at the local Walmart for $22 a 5 qt. jug. As much as I hate that place you can't beat the deals on oil.
 
I drive a 2.5L Duratec powered Jaguar X-Type in S. Florida. It's a revvy little engine and mates very well to the manual transmission.

I've tried all sorts of oils, mostly to achieve more revs (including M1 0W-30 AFE) . But, interestingly enough, my engine is smoother and more responsive on M1 5W-40 TDT. The slightly thicker oil is more effective in the cam phasers, especially at lower RPM's. I also suspect it results in better piston ring sealing.

The bottom line for me is significantly increased low end torque with the TDT oil. Other X-Type owners say the same things.
 
Originally Posted By: Subarutech
116k on my mothers 2005 Focus 2.0L Duratec using Motorcraft 5w20 at 3K oci. A little overkill on the oci but it still runs great to this day.


I believe that's a ZETEC, not a ("baby") Duratec...
 
Originally Posted By: Cujet
I drive a 2.5L Duratec powered Jaguar X-Type in S. Florida. It's a revvy little engine and mates very well to the manual transmission.

I've tried all sorts of oils, mostly to achieve more revs (including M1 0W-30 AFE) . But, interestingly enough, my engine is smoother and more responsive on M1 5W-40 TDT. The slightly thicker oil is more effective in the cam phasers, especially at lower RPM's. I also suspect it results in better piston ring sealing.

The bottom line for me is significantly increased low end torque with the TDT oil. Other X-Type owners say the same things.


I forgot to mention you can use a 10W-40 above 100F...
 
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