Use M1 or PU 5w20 in the 5.0 and rest easy
Ford 5.0L Coyote Oil Specs
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Originally Posted By: meborder
That's lower than I would have thought.
My 94 escort would see 230f sustained at 75 mph (3000 rpm) if bucking a headwind.
Somewhat surprised, that's all.
As mentioned the electronic management controls will kick in at some oil temp' north of 230F, how much north I don't know.
The 230F figure comes from a member who tracked his GT and the highest oil temp's he could generate was just 230F which wasn't high enough for the safeties to kick-in.
That's lower than I would have thought.
My 94 escort would see 230f sustained at 75 mph (3000 rpm) if bucking a headwind.
Somewhat surprised, that's all.
As mentioned the electronic management controls will kick in at some oil temp' north of 230F, how much north I don't know.
The 230F figure comes from a member who tracked his GT and the highest oil temp's he could generate was just 230F which wasn't high enough for the safeties to kick-in.
About the tick, my Track Pack has a valvetrain tick, sounds like from the passengers side head, and it has always used Motorcraft 5W50 with occasional top off with M1 0W40 and Pentosin 5W40.
Not too concerned, I have a 7 year / 125K warranty. Ford has been having dealers replace short blocks for valvetrain issues, I know makes no sense to me either. If they do that with mine, there might be some ARP headstuds and Boss302R 12 quart pan making their way onto the shortblock.
Not too concerned, I have a 7 year / 125K warranty. Ford has been having dealers replace short blocks for valvetrain issues, I know makes no sense to me either. If they do that with mine, there might be some ARP headstuds and Boss302R 12 quart pan making their way onto the shortblock.
12 quarts.........and here I am complaining about the 7 quart sump on my hemi. At least it's not like my hyundai. It's 3.5. 3.5? They could't squeeze and extra .5 in there. So annoying have a half quart bottle sitting around.
I hated buying oil for my mustang when I had it. 8 quarts.
I never did find the deals back then that I find now.
I hated buying oil for my mustang when I had it. 8 quarts.
I never did find the deals back then that I find now.
Originally Posted By: Justin251
12 quarts.........and here I am complaining about the 7 quart sump on my hemi. At least it's not like my hyundai. It's 3.5. 3.5? They could't squeeze and extra .5 in there. So annoying have a half quart bottle sitting around.
I hated buying oil for my mustang when I had it. 8 quarts.
I never did find the deals back then that I find now.
12 quarts is certainly easier, just buy a case. Now mine takes somewhere between 8.5-9 quarts with the oil cooler. Plus I let mine drain for longer than most people while I do other things on the car when it is off the ground.
The only downside to teh BOSS302R pan is there is no spot for the factory oil level sensor. Just have to measure the height on an OEM pan and be brave with a drill when putting a hole in a $1200 oil pan. Supposedly the Canton one has the hole already, just not sure the capacity.
12 quarts.........and here I am complaining about the 7 quart sump on my hemi. At least it's not like my hyundai. It's 3.5. 3.5? They could't squeeze and extra .5 in there. So annoying have a half quart bottle sitting around.
I hated buying oil for my mustang when I had it. 8 quarts.
I never did find the deals back then that I find now.
12 quarts is certainly easier, just buy a case. Now mine takes somewhere between 8.5-9 quarts with the oil cooler. Plus I let mine drain for longer than most people while I do other things on the car when it is off the ground.
The only downside to teh BOSS302R pan is there is no spot for the factory oil level sensor. Just have to measure the height on an OEM pan and be brave with a drill when putting a hole in a $1200 oil pan. Supposedly the Canton one has the hole already, just not sure the capacity.
I have a non-track pack 2014 Mustang GT and I use 5W-20 Motorcraft blend with the Motorcraft 500s filter and I have no ticking issues.
I changed the original oil fill at 4,600 miles and one year from the car's manufacture date. A year later I changed the oil again with 6,600 miles on that oil change which is the oil change that I'm currently on. Car now has 14,600 miles on it.
My experience in the past is that sometimes a full synthetic will cause additional engine noise and is one reason I don't run a full synthetic. This doesn't happen in all cases and I know that some people running the Motorcraft blend also experience ticking issues. Like others have stated, it seems to be hit or miss.
As far as the 2015 Mustang GT, it only recommends 5W-20 and that is even for the performance pack cars. Maybe they did some additional testing and discovered the 5W-50 was not needed.
Wayne
I changed the original oil fill at 4,600 miles and one year from the car's manufacture date. A year later I changed the oil again with 6,600 miles on that oil change which is the oil change that I'm currently on. Car now has 14,600 miles on it.
My experience in the past is that sometimes a full synthetic will cause additional engine noise and is one reason I don't run a full synthetic. This doesn't happen in all cases and I know that some people running the Motorcraft blend also experience ticking issues. Like others have stated, it seems to be hit or miss.
As far as the 2015 Mustang GT, it only recommends 5W-20 and that is even for the performance pack cars. Maybe they did some additional testing and discovered the 5W-50 was not needed.
Wayne
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I wonder if 5W50 would give the GT a little bit of "buffer" room to keep the engine protected? In my observation,5W50's seem really thin. They feel thinner between the fingers and pour thinner than 10W30 (VERY scientific,I know haha). Shake a bottle of 5W50 and 20W50 side by side at room temperature and there is a huge difference.
Originally Posted By: wtd
I have a non-track pack 2014 Mustang GT and I use 5W-20 Motorcraft blend with the Motorcraft 500s filter and I have no ticking issues.
I changed the original oil fill at 4,600 miles and one year from the car's manufacture date. A year later I changed the oil again with 6,600 miles on that oil change which is the oil change that I'm currently on. Car now has 14,600 miles on it.
My experience in the past is that sometimes a full synthetic will cause additional engine noise and is one reason I don't run a full synthetic. This doesn't happen in all cases and I know that some people running the Motorcraft blend also experience ticking issues. Like others have stated, it seems to be hit or miss.
As far as the 2015 Mustang GT, it only recommends 5W-20 and that is even for the performance pack cars. Maybe they did some additional testing and discovered the 5W-50 was not needed.
Wayne
Better oil cooling controls is my guess if the newer track pack cars call for a 20 grade.
From experience I saw my buddy's 5.0 with oil temps of 270f and the engine management hadn't neutered power yet,so I don't know what oil temps have to be before power gets cut.
Regardless even in the new cars I'd be using a 0w-40. Every performance based car on earth call for that grade,except here in North America. Not that I thinks a 20 grade isn't good and typical North American driving isn't going to heat the oil up to affect oil film thickness however if your gonna drive a car like it's meant to be driven I like that extra buffer the 0w-40s can give you in those times whe. You wanna melt tires
I have a non-track pack 2014 Mustang GT and I use 5W-20 Motorcraft blend with the Motorcraft 500s filter and I have no ticking issues.
I changed the original oil fill at 4,600 miles and one year from the car's manufacture date. A year later I changed the oil again with 6,600 miles on that oil change which is the oil change that I'm currently on. Car now has 14,600 miles on it.
My experience in the past is that sometimes a full synthetic will cause additional engine noise and is one reason I don't run a full synthetic. This doesn't happen in all cases and I know that some people running the Motorcraft blend also experience ticking issues. Like others have stated, it seems to be hit or miss.
As far as the 2015 Mustang GT, it only recommends 5W-20 and that is even for the performance pack cars. Maybe they did some additional testing and discovered the 5W-50 was not needed.
Wayne
Better oil cooling controls is my guess if the newer track pack cars call for a 20 grade.
From experience I saw my buddy's 5.0 with oil temps of 270f and the engine management hadn't neutered power yet,so I don't know what oil temps have to be before power gets cut.
Regardless even in the new cars I'd be using a 0w-40. Every performance based car on earth call for that grade,except here in North America. Not that I thinks a 20 grade isn't good and typical North American driving isn't going to heat the oil up to affect oil film thickness however if your gonna drive a car like it's meant to be driven I like that extra buffer the 0w-40s can give you in those times whe. You wanna melt tires
Originally Posted By: hatt
Agreed. No idea why someone would want to run the absolute minimum spec oil in an expensive performance vehicle.
Maybe because some of us want to keep our warranty intact and for my car, there is no other recommendation other than 5W-20. My experience with Ford's warranty is don't give them any reason to deny you warranty because they will if they can.
Wayne
Agreed. No idea why someone would want to run the absolute minimum spec oil in an expensive performance vehicle.
Maybe because some of us want to keep our warranty intact and for my car, there is no other recommendation other than 5W-20. My experience with Ford's warranty is don't give them any reason to deny you warranty because they will if they can.
Wayne
Originally Posted By: aquariuscsm
I wonder if 5W50 would give the GT a little bit of "buffer" room to keep the engine protected? In my observation,5W50's seem really thin. They feel thinner between the fingers and pour thinner than 10W30 (VERY scientific,I know haha). Shake a bottle of 5W50 and 20W50 side by side at room temperature and there is a huge difference.
In my experience a typical 5w-50 shears as you pour it out of the bottle. For example if one is auto X and only run the oil for a single event then the oil should retain its viscosity for long enough such as a typical race weekend then change the oil.
But a long drain on a 5w-50 would concern me however considering there is very little difference mechanically between the Ford 5.0 that requires 5w-50 and the version that calls for a 20 grade its entirely possible that Ford expects the oil to shear and they don't care because the engine can survive on a 20 grade so even if the oil shears down to a 30 from a 50 it's no biggie because it's OK with a 20 grade,so longer drains don't concern them.
Speculation of course.
Originally Posted By: wtd
Originally Posted By: hatt
Agreed. No idea why someone would want to run the absolute minimum spec oil in an expensive performance vehicle.
Maybe because some of us want to keep our warranty intact and for my car, there is no other recommendation other than 5W-20. My experience with Ford's warranty is don't give them any reason to deny you warranty because they will if they can.
Wayne
Wayne. Any idea what ford specifies for the mustang in Europe.
If it's a 30 or 40 grade then they cannot deny warranty coverage if you use those grades. They can't say it's ok to use when you like over there,but if you use it here we are going to can your warranty. They can't have it both ways.
Regardless they have to prove the lubricant caused the specific failure. Which if using a typical euro spec oil just isn't going to happen,especially at the shorter intervals we here typically run in comparison.
If you drive easy then a 20 grade is more than adequate and if it's got an oil cooler I'd also have much more confidence in running a thinner grade.
The key is oil temps. If the oil temps can stay under 240f even at full pedal then a 20 grade easily works however once you start getting real hot the oils film becomes much thinner,and a 30/40 grade will have just that little bit more film thickness which could make the difference in certain situations.
No engine ever failed using a thicker oil than specified(within reason)and anyone with any sense knows engines aren't designed for a specific grade of oil. If that were true the oil would have to be pre-heated to operating temp and strict controls put in place to make sure the oil never wavers from that specific temp/thickness.
Engines are built to use a range of lubricant grades. Depending on temps both inside the engine and ambient one makes a choice.
Sure a 20 grade is adequate for most every situation in typical street driving however when you are beating on it it only stands to reason thicker is better if the oil temps exceed whatever temps the 20 grades oil film thickness becomes compromised.
And considering the certifications a typical euro spec oil meets and the exotics that call for them I'd feel much better knowing the oil in my performance car is stout enough for a Bugatti,and isn't the same oil that a civic calls for.
Ultimately it's your choice of course. And if you granny drive you'll never need the extra headroom a 0w-40 allows for however if you drive that car like it's meant to be driven daily you'll quickly learn that one size fits all usually doesn't.
I wonder if 5W50 would give the GT a little bit of "buffer" room to keep the engine protected? In my observation,5W50's seem really thin. They feel thinner between the fingers and pour thinner than 10W30 (VERY scientific,I know haha). Shake a bottle of 5W50 and 20W50 side by side at room temperature and there is a huge difference.
In my experience a typical 5w-50 shears as you pour it out of the bottle. For example if one is auto X and only run the oil for a single event then the oil should retain its viscosity for long enough such as a typical race weekend then change the oil.
But a long drain on a 5w-50 would concern me however considering there is very little difference mechanically between the Ford 5.0 that requires 5w-50 and the version that calls for a 20 grade its entirely possible that Ford expects the oil to shear and they don't care because the engine can survive on a 20 grade so even if the oil shears down to a 30 from a 50 it's no biggie because it's OK with a 20 grade,so longer drains don't concern them.
Speculation of course.
Originally Posted By: wtd
Originally Posted By: hatt
Agreed. No idea why someone would want to run the absolute minimum spec oil in an expensive performance vehicle.
Maybe because some of us want to keep our warranty intact and for my car, there is no other recommendation other than 5W-20. My experience with Ford's warranty is don't give them any reason to deny you warranty because they will if they can.
Wayne
Wayne. Any idea what ford specifies for the mustang in Europe.
If it's a 30 or 40 grade then they cannot deny warranty coverage if you use those grades. They can't say it's ok to use when you like over there,but if you use it here we are going to can your warranty. They can't have it both ways.
Regardless they have to prove the lubricant caused the specific failure. Which if using a typical euro spec oil just isn't going to happen,especially at the shorter intervals we here typically run in comparison.
If you drive easy then a 20 grade is more than adequate and if it's got an oil cooler I'd also have much more confidence in running a thinner grade.
The key is oil temps. If the oil temps can stay under 240f even at full pedal then a 20 grade easily works however once you start getting real hot the oils film becomes much thinner,and a 30/40 grade will have just that little bit more film thickness which could make the difference in certain situations.
No engine ever failed using a thicker oil than specified(within reason)and anyone with any sense knows engines aren't designed for a specific grade of oil. If that were true the oil would have to be pre-heated to operating temp and strict controls put in place to make sure the oil never wavers from that specific temp/thickness.
Engines are built to use a range of lubricant grades. Depending on temps both inside the engine and ambient one makes a choice.
Sure a 20 grade is adequate for most every situation in typical street driving however when you are beating on it it only stands to reason thicker is better if the oil temps exceed whatever temps the 20 grades oil film thickness becomes compromised.
And considering the certifications a typical euro spec oil meets and the exotics that call for them I'd feel much better knowing the oil in my performance car is stout enough for a Bugatti,and isn't the same oil that a civic calls for.
Ultimately it's your choice of course. And if you granny drive you'll never need the extra headroom a 0w-40 allows for however if you drive that car like it's meant to be driven daily you'll quickly learn that one size fits all usually doesn't.
There has never been a post here, that I've seen at least, where a warranty was voided because someone used a slighly different grade high quality oil that was somehow detected by the dealership. The most overblown argument ever. If the owners manual is Gospel no need to even be on this site. Just match the specs from your OM and a bottle of oil.
I have no idea what this car recommends in Europe. I don't even know if they even sold it there in any great numbers.
I drive this car fast but don't hammer the throttle every chance I get so the 5W-20 should be fine. I also have not found any place that stated where running the car hard on 5W-20 is going to hurt it.
As far as warranty issues go, I have already had two warranty issues denied on this car with the dealer and Ford basically blaming me for the problems which was not the case. I got one fixed after a four month battle and the other has never been resolved.
While I'm still under warranty, I choose to run what the manufacturer recommends. After that, I may consider something else.
Wayne
I drive this car fast but don't hammer the throttle every chance I get so the 5W-20 should be fine. I also have not found any place that stated where running the car hard on 5W-20 is going to hurt it.
As far as warranty issues go, I have already had two warranty issues denied on this car with the dealer and Ford basically blaming me for the problems which was not the case. I got one fixed after a four month battle and the other has never been resolved.
While I'm still under warranty, I choose to run what the manufacturer recommends. After that, I may consider something else.
Wayne
Originally Posted By: Clevy
From experience I saw my buddy's 5.0 with oil temps of 270f and the engine management hadn't neutered power yet,so I don't know what oil temps have to be before power gets cut.
On the 2015 Mustang GT there is an oil temperature gauge that shows ranges of green, yellow and red. Per the factory service manual the green range represents 141-279 deg F, and the middle of the green range is therefore ~210 deg F. Yellow range is 280-295 F and the red range is 296-320 F. I would assume no thermal management kicks in until the oil temp is near the top of or outside the green range.
From experience I saw my buddy's 5.0 with oil temps of 270f and the engine management hadn't neutered power yet,so I don't know what oil temps have to be before power gets cut.
On the 2015 Mustang GT there is an oil temperature gauge that shows ranges of green, yellow and red. Per the factory service manual the green range represents 141-279 deg F, and the middle of the green range is therefore ~210 deg F. Yellow range is 280-295 F and the red range is 296-320 F. I would assume no thermal management kicks in until the oil temp is near the top of or outside the green range.
5.0 in my F150 here, not a Mustang.
I've been running PP 5W20 and either a NG or MC Filter and have no issues with ticking at 72,000KMs/45,000miles.
I've been running PP 5W20 and either a NG or MC Filter and have no issues with ticking at 72,000KMs/45,000miles.
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