Ford 10R80 Fluid

Joined
Jul 5, 2020
Messages
414
Location
Sioux City
I've got a 23 F150 3.5 Ecoboost with a little over 30k currently. I plan on doing some preventative maintenance this spring to include front/rear diff fluid changes (Amsoil 75w90) and transfer case fluid (Amsoil ATL).

For the transmission I plan on doing a simple drain and fill every 30k or so since that seems to keep them happy. I lean towards Motorcraft ULV since that seems to be the common choice among many (even high performance builds) and it's a whopping $24 for 5qts off Rockauto. Though I wonder if a more premium fluid like Amsoil ULV or HPL Teal would be a better choice for long term? If I go with Amsoil or HPL, would it be fine to mix with OE fluid doing a single drain and fill (about 1/3 of total fluid capacity)? Surprisingly there's not a lot of 10r80 discussions on this forum for as many as there is out there and advice on F150 forums is pretty much one sided. Since I have Ford ESP for 8yr/125k, I also wonder how something like HPL Teal may affect warranty coverage if there is an issue and what they drain is a drastically different color.

EDIT: I should mention that I do have a bit of an odd shift from 1-3 that seems like it doesn't fully engage after it shifts and occasionally the same behavior from 3-4 and 4-5. I have had a hard downshift into 3rd while slowing down a couple times, but I haven't been able to figure out the conditions to replicate it. Most people wouldn't notice and don't notice it, but as previous tech that focused on drivability it stands out to me. I don't expect perfection, but better than it is now. I've read others with similar experiences are better after fresh fluid.

I don't plan on extensive heavy towing or hauling, just regular driving with some truck duty here and there as needed. I am planning on a tuner and intercooler at some point. I'm undecided if I get PPE pan with a drain plug or not yet, but I'll probably bite the bullet so it's easier maintenance in the long run.
 
Last edited:
I have a 2024 as a work truck that has 27000 miles on it and has a really bad 3-4 shift (if I’m counting correctly) when cold, and when the ambient temp is below 32ish degrees.

Sadly, my company won’t let me change the fluid at 30k miles.

I’d stick with an oil that’s the same color just to be sure you won’t be denied a claim. This isn’t a reliable transmission, so I suspect it will be an issue down the road.
 
I have a 2024 as a work truck that has 27000 miles on it and has a really bad 3-4 shift (if I’m counting correctly) when cold, and when the ambient temp is below 32ish degrees.

Sadly, my company won’t let me change the fluid at 30k miles.

I’d stick with an oil that’s the same color just to be sure you won’t be denied a claim. This isn’t a reliable transmission, so I suspect it will be an issue down the road.
Ironically, I just edited it because I forgot the description of the operation I'm trying to lessen or fix. Surprisingly I have the same thing going on. I have a video of mine showing the RPM variation after the shift. I can post it later if you're curious. I had Ford look at it. They reset the adaptive learning, seemed to help for a few hundred miles while I was home. But I've been away from the truck for a few months, so I guess we'll see how it is when I get back in a month or so. Wife's been driving once or twice a week just to keep things on the up and up. But I keep getting the dang "Remote Features Disabled" message on my FordPass app. Probably going to upgrade to an H8 when I get home.
 
I have the 6r80 it’s similarly designed to. Mine specifies LV, vice ULV like yours, but I did 3 spill and fills with Amsoil ATL over about 10,000mi and I had zero issues with the mix. The transmission works very well! Smooth and confident shifts, even when towing my 7500lb camper. I have zero complaints about using Amsoil in mine. I wouldn’t hesitate to use HPL ATF either.
 
Torque converter lockup can make for some wierd rpm changes while still in the same gear. In my 6r80 3rd gear unlocked vs. locked is about 400rpm and you can watch it happen while remaining in 3rd gear. The other possibility is the CDF drum anti-walk bushing sliding out of place causing the bad 3-4 shifts and other wierdness.
 
I would go with the cheaper Ford Mercon fluid so you can do several drain and fills to get most of the old fluid out. Then add Lubegard (red or platinum) to the final fill. Search it up. You could also use the Mercon for the drain and fills and a premium product for the last fill with or without Lubegard.
 
Torque converter lockup can make for some wierd rpm changes while still in the same gear. In my 6r80 3rd gear unlocked vs. locked is about 400rpm and you can watch it happen while remaining in 3rd gear. The other possibility is the CDF drum anti-walk bushing sliding out of place causing the bad 3-4 shifts and other wierdness.
My 6r80 is identical. I can watch the gear shifts taking place on my Scangauge 3 and within the gears the TC locking and unlocking changing RPMs.
 
Torque converter lockup can make for some wierd rpm changes while still in the same gear. In my 6r80 3rd gear unlocked vs. locked is about 400rpm and you can watch it happen while remaining in 3rd gear. The other possibility is the CDF drum anti-walk bushing sliding out of place causing the bad 3-4 shifts and other wierdness.
I do wonder if what I am feeling in 3rd gear is torque converter lock-up. It shifts into 3rd and then almost feels like a second shift, then shortly after shifts into 4th. I plan on getting Forscan, so maybe I can do a bit of data logging. As far as the CDF drum. I don’t think it’s that issue since in 23 they got the updated CDF drum. But I’m not 100% it isn’t something with that either.

In all reality though, I’m sensitive to this stuff. Many people don’t notice it. My FIL’s 22 Powerboost has done a similar shift while I’ve ridden with him. I pointed it out, but he never noticed it even when I said something. That was a few years ago and his has about 80k on it, no extra servicing.
 
Well, here’s a fun video. The guy shows a recording of an owner that logged his oil pressure and at idle it dropped as load 4psi while fluctuating in the single digits at idle. Wished I knew the source of the log in the video. The log starts at about 6:50 if you don’t want to listen to the whole video.

 
Whatever ULV your wallet can stand. Main thing is to change it often and get the debris out of the transmission. If you can afford to do so with HPL, then by all means, but regular changes of Mercon/Valvoline/Dexron ULV will do just fine. LG platinum seems to help keep the valve bodies in the 10X's freed up as well.

I had a 2020 10R80 and never had problems out of it following that plan and I did tow quite heavy (for that truck) and continue to do so with the 2025 F150, although it is pretty apparent to me that Ford has done some work on the 10R80's in that 5 year gap between trucks. The box in the Ranger shifted like you would expect a truck to shift, the one in the 150 shifts like a luxury car.

FWIW I vacuum and fill every 10k. Excessive, maybe, but it gives me something to do. And I do use LG Platinum at 1oz/qt.

I find Nate at NextGen transmissions hard to take sometimes, but he was in a video a while back pretty much confirming everything I've said about the 10X boxes for the last 5 years.

Bookmarked to the discussion.

 
I would go with the cheaper Ford Mercon fluid so you can do several drain and fills to get most of the old fluid out. Then add Lubegard (red or platinum) to the final fill. Search it up. You could also use the Mercon for the drain and fills and a premium product for the last fill with or without Lubegard.
LG Platinum is NOT the optimal choice for this application; any fluid that’s close to the Mercon ULV will not need a friction modification like Platinum causes. This isn’t even a recommendation LG makes; they say this is where LG Red should be used.

You may want to use the search function for @MolaKule ’s posts about LG Platinum before making recommendations like this.
 
Last edited:
LG Platinum is NOT correct for this application; any fluid that’s close to the Mercon ULV will not need a friction modification like Platinum causes. This isn’t even a recommendation LG makes; they say this is where LG Red should be used.

You may want to use the search function for @MolaKule ’s posts about LG Platinum before making recommendations like this.

Both have friction modifiers:

LUBEGARD Synthetic ATF Protectant (Red) was developed by International Lubricants Inc. (ILI) over 35 years ago and has become the No. 1-used product in the professional transmission industry since then. LUBEGARD Synthetic ATF Protectant (Red) contains a proprietary ester-based friction modifier that further prolongs reoccurrence of TCC shudder. Lubegard Red also restores additive depletion to old, worn-out fluid; lowers the operating temperature; reduces wear; frees stuck valves; and protects and restores seals without the use of harmful seal-swelling chemicals.

https://lubegard.com/two-lubegards-are-better-than-one/
 
LG Platinum is NOT correct for this application; any fluid that’s close to the Mercon ULV will not need a friction modification like Platinum causes. This isn’t even a recommendation LG makes; they say this is where LG Red should be used.

You may want to use the search function for @MolaKule ’s posts about LG Platinum before making recommendations like this.


They did when I emailed about it ages ago.

Regardless of the never-ending debate, it goes in my 10R80 and with 570 lb/ft of torque and towing it has performed just as it should.

If I had the coin to spend on the NextGen valve body I would probably forgo the LG, but as it stands with mine being completely stock, I'll take the (hopefully) added anti-wear protection.

I can point to several Ranger owners with 10R80's that were having shift timing issues before, and shifted fine afterwards, so it isn't just snake oil in that case. There's a real issue with 10X transmission valve bodies that new fluid doesn't always completely cure. And not everyone has the issue and not every one that uses LG finds a cure in it.
 
Last edited:

They did when I emailed about it ages ago.

Regardless of the never-ending debate, it goes in my 10R80 and with 570 lb/ft of torque and towing it has performed just as it should.
Man that’s so much more torque than my 5.4 V8, which is 365ft/lb at 3600rpm 😂. Towing must be awesome. I’m pulling 7500lbs with a Navigator L 4x4; sometimes it’s fully loaded with the family of 6 too and it scaled at 6980lbs with a full tank and all of us in it. My 6r80 has handled it with aplomb using Amsoil LV ATF.
 
Both have friction modifiers:

LUBEGARD Synthetic ATF Protectant (Red) was developed by International Lubricants Inc. (ILI) over 35 years ago and has become the No. 1-used product in the professional transmission industry since then. LUBEGARD Synthetic ATF Protectant (Red) contains a proprietary ester-based friction modifier that further prolongs reoccurrence of TCC shudder. Lubegard Red also restores additive depletion to old, worn-out fluid; lowers the operating temperature; reduces wear; frees stuck valves; and protects and restores seals without the use of harmful seal-swelling chemicals.

https://lubegard.com/two-lubegards-are-better-than-one/
I’m well aware that Red has friction modifiers in it. If you read Molakule’s posts, which are written by somebody who has actually formulated transmission fluids and engine oils for a living, you’ll learn that there are different types, and non-optimal types of friction modifiers can have an extremely detrimental effects if added to the wrong type of fluid.

13+ quarts is a lot of somebody else’s fluid to take chances with if that additive causes slippage or weird shifting issues, especially if they’re adding it to a fresh batch of approved fluid.
 
Man that’s so much more torque than my 5.4 V8, which is 365ft/lb at 3600rpm 😂. Towing must be awesome. I’m pulling 7500lbs with a Navigator L 4x4; sometimes it’s fully loaded with the family of 6 too and it scaled at 6980lbs with a full tank and all of us in it. My 6r80 has handled it with aplomb using Amsoil LV ATF.
Towing is such a yawn with the Hybrid powertrain it is silly. Instant grunt pretty much everywhere at every time. Our trailer is around 6600# and it is just a cake walk for the truck.

Now, towing into a 30mph headwind at 65 on the interstate and fuel consumption........18 wheelers use less fuel..... but you still never want for power.

No wind I'm at 10-12 locked in 8th at 70mph. That upper midwest headwind knocked us down to 5.5-6.5 mpg.
 
Last edited:
Towing is such a yawn with the Hybrid powertrain it is silly. Instant grunt pretty much everywhere at every time. Our trailer is around 6600# and it is just a cake walk for the truck.

Now, towing into a 30mph headwind at 65 on the interstate and fuel consumption........18 wheelers use less fuel..... but you still never want for power.
Super cool. I feel you on the MPG hit though. At 65mph I can average around 7.5-8mpg, at 80mph I’m solidly around 6-6.5mpg, lmao.
 
Whatever ULV your wallet can stand. Main thing is to change it often and get the debris out of the transmission. If you can afford to do so with HPL, then by all means, but regular changes of Mercon/Valvoline/Dexron ULV will do just fine. LG platinum seems to help keep the valve bodies in the 10X's freed up as well.

I had a 2020 10R80 and never had problems out of it following that plan and I did tow quite heavy (for that truck) and continue to do so with the 2025 F150, although it is pretty apparent to me that Ford has done some work on the 10R80's in that 5 year gap between trucks. The box in the Ranger shifted like you would expect a truck to shift, the one in the 150 shifts like a luxury car.

FWIW I vacuum and fill every 10k. Excessive, maybe, but it gives me something to do. And I do use LG Platinum at 1oz/qt.

I find Nate at NextGen transmissions hard to take sometimes, but he was in a video a while back pretty much confirming everything I've said about the 10X boxes for the last 5 years.

Bookmarked to the discussion.


I’m thinking about getting a vacuum pump as well so I don’t have to drop the pan. I’ve read some do a fluid exchange every 30k and fluid with filter every 60k. I may go that route. Maybe even do a couple fluid exchanges initially just to get as much fresh fluid in as possible.

I haven’t considered Lubegard, though I have seen others talk highly about it.

I agree with your assessment on Nate from Nextgen. It seems like he’s a smart guy and knows what he is talking about. But I tried looking for reviews on his 10r80 parts and haven’t been able to find any info. I don’t like to blindly trust claims so bold as his.
 
LG Platinum is NOT the optimal choice for this application; any fluid that’s close to the Mercon ULV will not need a friction modification like Platinum causes. This isn’t even a recommendation LG makes; they say this is where LG Red should be used.

You may want to use the search function for @MolaKule ’s posts about LG Platinum before making recommendations like this.
I looked over LG’s use guide that was last updated in 2021. They recommend either Red or Platinum, of course they are also in the business to sell products too.

When comparing Red to Platinum. Red claims to soften shifts while Platinum claims to tighten shifts. Both claim to free stuck valves and keep them that way. I’m not sure what the difference is in the formulation, but it does appear the friction modifiers are the main difference. Though I see a lot more reviews for Platinum in the 10r80 over Red for whatever that’s worth.

Luckily I have time on my side as I won’t be doing this for a couple more months while I gather more info. Though I keep going back to the KISS concept since I typically overthink things like this. Lol
 
Back
Top Bottom