10R80 / Lubegard Platinum / Mercon ULV

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I'm a user of the LG red in my two Honda vehicles and was curious the other night and sent off an email to LG asking what they recommended for the 10R80 and Mercon ULV. For the curious, answer below:

I don't necessarily understand how it can be a FM and not end up with too much FM in the fluid if you use it, but that's their official answer, so

¯\_(ツ)_/¯​



--------- Forwarded message ---------
From: E. Haviland
Date: Thu, Feb 25, 2021, 13:09
Subject: RE: Sidebar Form - Lubegard Website

Thank you for contacting us!

Lubegard Platinum #63010 would be the best product to use with Mercon ULV ATF. You could use the Red, but the Platinum has newer technology and provides the best anti-wear protection.

Please let me know if I can do anything else.

Best regards,
E. Haviland
Stellar Automotive Group | International Lubricants Inc.
Seattle, WA
Toll Free: (800) 333-5823
 
@MolaKule recommends the red, I have used the silver LG platinum with no issues in a ZF 6 speed at full recommended dosage. I don't run a ZF 6 only ATF though. The ATF I use is recommended for a lot of transmissions including the ZF.
 
I'm a user of the LG red in my two Honda vehicles and was curious the other night and sent off an email to LG asking what they recommended for the 10R80 and Mercon ULV. For the curious, answer below:

I don't necessarily understand how it can be a FM and not end up with too much FM in the fluid if you use it, but that's their official answer, so

¯\_(ツ)_/¯​



--------- Forwarded message ---------
From: E. Haviland
Date: Thu, Feb 25, 2021, 13:09
Subject: RE: Sidebar Form - Lubegard Website

Thank you for contacting us!

Lubegard Platinum #63010 would be the best product to use with Mercon ULV ATF. You could use the Red, but the Platinum has newer technology and provides the best anti-wear protection.

Please let me know if I can do anything else.

Best regards,
E. Haviland
Stellar Automotive Group | International Lubricants Inc.
Seattle, WA
Toll Free: (800) 333-5823
Most techs at these companies will recommend whatever they think you want and will tell you whatever they think you want to hear to make a sale.

While Platinum has the some of the same LXE esters as does the Red, the Platinum has additional friction modifiers that will modify the dynamic friction coefficients of the host ATF.

You don't want to modify the dynamic friction coefficients of the host ATF.
 
Most techs at these companies will recommend whatever they think you want and will tell you whatever they think you want to hear to make a sale.

While Platinum has the some of the same LXE esters as does the Red, the Platinum has additional friction modifiers that will modify the dynamic friction coefficients of the host ATF.

You don't want to modify the dynamic friction coefficients of the host ATF.

I hesitate updating this thread for a couple of reasons.

1. It is poor etiquette to dig up an old post.
(At the same time, I don't want to start a new post since this one is already established, the products are still current, and the transmissions are also still a current model)

2. Regardless of my results, and results of others, we're going to get shouted down about how LG Platinum isn't the right thing to use.

3. I DO NOT believe that LG will help the CDF drum failure mode of the 10R80, so that possibility is still hanging over my head.

I began using Lubegard Platinum at around 10,000 miles in the 10R80 in my 2020 Ranger. At the time it was operating well, but had a bit of clunkiness in a few of the shifts from time-to-time.

As of today 6/25/2024 I have used the product with every fluid change I've done on the box, and it has been absolutely stellar. No clunks, no hung shifts, nothing off the oddness that 10R80's are becoming known for. I am doing very regular D&F's on the transmission. So is it LG or is it the clean fluid? Hard to say. I've seen and heard of a few people just adding it to their existing fluid and it freeing up the VB, restoring proper operation.

My results have led me to recommend it to a few other people in the Ranger community that have had issues with their transmissions. At least one of them has had excellent results, although I don't know the total number of people that have used it.

As the 10R80's have gotten some miles on them, it is pretty clear that the valve body has some wear issues, evidenced by the amount of replacement valves that the aftermarket has designed. I believe that the LG is helping to keep the VB's operating as they should, and in cases where they are already getting sticky, to help free them up.

1719370834009.jpg




I'm at ~55,000 miles on the truck currently, and have been using LG Platinum at the recommended dose for the last ~40,000 miles. I've pulled a 5500-6000 pound travel trailer around 5000 miles in that time period. To date, everything is working as it should and the truck still shifts like it did the day I drove it home.

I also know that someone will bring up HPL and their ULV fluid. While I do think that is a viable option, I believe that part of the battle we fight is not with the fluid, it is with keeping contaminates OUT of the system, and the only way to do that reliably is to replace the fluid on a regular basis. I'd love to try the HPL fluid, but I can't bring myself to waste the $$$ just to turn around and send it to the recycler, so regular Mercon ULV is the pick. Besides, by all accounts, ULV is a decent enough fluid, it just isn't quite enough for these valve bodies.

Also, I'm aware the thing might still fail. I have an extended warranty that will get me to the point of buying the next truck, which will be some form of Hybrid with an onboard 'Generator' for the travel trailer (Come on GM/Ram, lets get with the hybrid thing)

Also, I'm sure CKN will come storming in at any moment now to talk about how crap Ford is. Dude, we get it, let it go, your truck was a turd (in your mind). It's time to move on.

In summary. If you have a 10R80, and it is funky. Try the LG, my opinion is that it won't hurt anything. Even in an F150 and even towing it should be just fine (You guys have an extra clutch or two in your 10R80's that us Ranger guys don't get).

Also, if you do try it, report back about your findings. I'm genuinely curious if the results I've seen, in limited numbers, are repeatable.

I am also fully aware that I might come off as a cheerleader for the product. I receive nothing from LG, not affiliated, don't earn a commission, etc etc. I'm just interested in if the product can solve a problem and if it can, or at least help, to pass that info on to others. Of course, it is a partial bandaid on a product that Ford should fix, but that doesn't help people that are having to live with a vehicle day-to-day, or are out of warranty, etc.
 
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Bob, I think your plan and logic is sound. I will follow your 10r80 posts for updates. I'm of the mind that it is clean fluid and not the additive. I'm not sold on on them. I think the key IS clean fluid. The reason I say this, is the transmission seems OK at the beginning for people and then people complain it gradually, over many miles goes downhill. The fluid degrades and gets particles in it. Keep it clean and from what I see if will live a long life. If you don't maintain it, you will sell it out of frustration of its behavior
 
3. I DO NOT believe that LG will help the CDF drum failure mode of the 10R80, so that possibility is still hanging over my head...

I am doing very regular D&F's on the transmission. So is it LG or is it the clean fluid? Hard to say. I've seen and heard of a few people just adding it to their existing fluid and it freeing up the VB, restoring proper operation.
I believe it's the LXE esters that provide the cleaning. I question any fluid that modifies the original ATF's dynamic coeficients of friction Mu(v).
I also know that someone will bring up HPL and their ULV fluid. While I do think that is a viable option, I believe that part of the battle we fight is not with the fluid, it is with keeping contaminates OUT of the system, and the only way to do that reliably is to replace the fluid on a regular basis. I'd love to try the HPL fluid, but I can't bring myself to waste the $$$ just to turn around and send it to the recycler, so regular Mercon ULV is the pick. Besides, by all accounts, ULV is a decent enough fluid, it just isn't quite enough for these valve bodies.
Fluid changes are one way of minimizing particulates.
 
Bob, I think your plan and logic is sound. I will follow your 10r80 posts for updates. I'm of the mind that it is clean fluid and not the additive. I'm not sold on on them. I think the key IS clean fluid. The reason I say this, is the transmission seems OK at the beginning for people and then people complain it gradually, over many miles goes downhill. The fluid degrades and gets particles in it. Keep it clean and from what I see if will live a long life. If you don't maintain it, you will sell it out of frustration of its behavior
I agree that the clean fluid is a big part of it, but it doesn't explain why people have added the LG and seen a very quick improvement without a fluid change.

To be clear, I'm still a big proponent of keeping the fluid fresh in the unit, but I also think that it needs a little extra help in the department of keeping the VB free.
 
I agree that the clean fluid is a big part of it, but it doesn't explain why people have added the LG and seen a very quick improvement without a fluid change.

To be clear, I'm still a big proponent of keeping the fluid fresh in the unit, but I also think that it needs a little extra help in the department of keeping the VB free.
That sounds exactly like what an ester should do-clean. If the transmission is kept clean to begin with, I don't see a reason to add LG. If there are pre-existing issues, LG may help, but a high-quality ATF may do the same thing at a lower cost.
 
I have a theory about the drum failure as well as the valve body issues. The fluid heats up and thins out causing wear. The GM trans run a lot cooler and the issues seem to be Waaay less, almost nonexistent.
 
That sounds exactly like what an ester should do-clean. If the transmission is kept clean to begin with, I don't see a reason to add LG. If there are pre-existing issues, LG may help, but a high-quality ATF may do the same thing at a lower cost.
Maybe. There also seems to be a wear problem. Now whether that is caused by abrasives in the fluid, or some deficiency in the fluid I don't know. Could well be both.

As for the cost. Ehh, its a non-issue in my book. I try to buy things on sale, so I save a bit on the ATF and then spend a bit on the LG. At 1oz per qt it really doesn't add much to a 4-5 qt fluid change.

Marketing incoming:

It is an article about LG platinum changing viscosity, but they also present some wear data. Granted, it isn't a huge change in wear for the ULV, but if the Ford design is causing accelerated wear then I will take whatever advantage I can get.

---------------------------------------------------------------------------------
https://www.lubegard.com/latest-news/viscosity-in-depth-review/

"The wear protection properties of the fluids were tested by the Four-Ball wear method, ASTM 4172.

In every case, the Lubegard Platinum Protectant improved the wear protection. The Synthetic Protectant improved all the ATFs but the already-effective, ZF Lifeguard 8, in which it did no harm to the wear protection. "
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------
I'm really just trying to provide some insight for 10R80 owners that they might want to try it. There seems to be no downside, and a possible pretty good upside. I waited so long because I wanted to see a few other people try it in various situations before I posted.

I'm very keen for more folks with a balky 10R80 to try some at first without a fluid change.
 
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I’ve used lubegard for years in everything and it has always seemed to smooth out shifts. My 10r80 just hit 90k and I’ve had it in there for the last 60k or so at 1 oz per quart

All the clean fluid in the world won’t stop the cdf drum bushing from moving, but it certainly can’t hurt.
 
I hesitate updating this thread for a couple of reasons.

1. It is poor etiquette to dig up an old post.
(At the same time, I don't want to start a new post since this one is already established, the products are still current, and the transmissions are also still a current model)

2. Regardless of my results, and results of others, we're going to get shouted down about how LG Platinum isn't the right thing to use.

3. I DO NOT believe that LG will help the CDF drum failure mode of the 10R80, so that possibility is still hanging over my head.

I began using Lubegard Platinum at around 10,000 miles in the 10R80 in my 2020 Ranger. At the time it was operating well, but had a bit of clunkiness in a few of the shifts from time-to-time.

As of today 6/25/2024 I have used the product with every fluid change I've done on the box, and it has been absolutely stellar. No clunks, no hung shifts, nothing off the oddness that 10R80's are becoming known for. I am doing very regular D&F's on the transmission. So is it LG or is it the clean fluid? Hard to say. I've seen and heard of a few people just adding it to their existing fluid and it freeing up the VB, restoring proper operation.

My results have led me to recommend it to a few other people in the Ranger community that have had issues with their transmissions. At least one of them has had excellent results, although I don't know the total number of people that have used it.

As the 10R80's have gotten some miles on them, it is pretty clear that the valve body has some wear issues, evidenced by the amount of replacement valves that the aftermarket has designed. I believe that the LG is helping to keep the VB's operating as they should, and in cases where they are already getting sticky, to help free them up.

View attachment 226973



I'm at ~55,000 miles on the truck currently, and have been using LG Platinum at the recommended dose for the last ~40,000 miles. I've pulled a 5500-6000 pound travel trailer around 5000 miles in that time period. To date, everything is working as it should and the truck still shifts like it did the day I drove it home.

I also know that someone will bring up HPL and their ULV fluid. While I do think that is a viable option, I believe that part of the battle we fight is not with the fluid, it is with keeping contaminates OUT of the system, and the only way to do that reliably is to replace the fluid on a regular basis. I'd love to try the HPL fluid, but I can't bring myself to waste the $$$ just to turn around and send it to the recycler, so regular Mercon ULV is the pick. Besides, by all accounts, ULV is a decent enough fluid, it just isn't quite enough for these valve bodies.

Also, I'm aware the thing might still fail. I have an extended warranty that will get me to the point of buying the next truck, which will be some form of Hybrid with an onboard 'Generator' for the travel trailer (Come on GM/Ram, lets get with the hybrid thing)

Also, I'm sure CKN will come storming in at any moment now to talk about how crap Ford is. Dude, we get it, let it go, your truck was a turd (in your mind). It's time to move on.

In summary. If you have a 10R80, and it is funky. Try the LG, my opinion is that it won't hurt anything. Even in an F150 and even towing it should be just fine (You guys have an extra clutch or two in your 10R80's that us Ranger guys don't get).

Also, if you do try it, report back about your findings. I'm genuinely curious if the results I've seen, in limited numbers, are repeatable.

I am also fully aware that I might come off as a cheerleader for the product. I receive nothing from LG, not affiliated, don't earn a commission, etc etc. I'm just interested in if the product can solve a problem and if it can, or at least help, to pass that info on to others. Of course, it is a partial bandaid on a product that Ford should fix, but that doesn't help people that are having to live with a vehicle day-to-day, or are out of warranty, etc.


Seriously… a really, really good post here.
 
I’ve used lubegard for years in everything and it has always seemed to smooth out shifts. My 10r80 just hit 90k and I’ve had it in there for the last 60k or so at 1 oz per quart

All the clean fluid in the world won’t stop the cdf drum bushing from moving, but it certainly can’t hurt.

Red I assume?

Yea, like I said, I'm waiting for that shoe to drop, but until then the LG seems to be keeping the trans from slamming around like a methed up ape in a cage.

Who knows, maybe one of the side effects of a balky shifting unit is something akin to water hammer that might jar that bushing loose or make it move. I don't think that would be the case, but who knows. I really wish I had the time/patience/knowledge to investigate it.
 
Red I assume?

Yea, like I said, I'm waiting for that shoe to drop, but until then the LG seems to be keeping the trans from slamming around like a methed up ape in a cage.

Who knows, maybe one of the side effects of a balky shifting unit is something akin to water hammer that might jar that bushing loose or make it move. I don't think that would be the case, but who knows. I really wish I had the time/patience/knowledge to investigate it.

Yeah I’ve always used the red. Truck has been tuned for most of the 90k with the awful skip shifting turned off. I started running a 170° thermostat last year and it keeps the trans temps down a bit to around 180-185 down from the 195-205.
 
Ohh yea, something I just realized I forgot to add.

Ford's 150,000 mile OCI for the 10R80 is completely and utterly out to lunch.

30k D&F an 60K D&F+Filter I think is an excellent starting point.

I suspect they're never going to back off of that though since it will likely get an acceptable number of units through warranty with an acceptable amount of warranty dollars spent.
 
Yeah I’ve always used the red. Truck has been tuned for most of the 90k with the awful skip shifting turned off. I started running a 170° thermostat last year and it keeps the trans temps down a bit to around 180-185 down from the 195-205.
I keep looking at the Ford Factory performance tune. Done by Livernois and while it isn't the greatest tune out there, it does give you a 45hp 60lb/ft bump, which isn't nothing. Then I remember that the truck works so well now that I'm hesitant to mess with it.
 
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