For those who think 0w30 is too thin....

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I just looked at a bottle of 0w30 German Castrol in my garage, and it IS NOT rated as Energy Conserving! I had no idea.

I might just use this my Grand Cherokee as winter oil; cold weather flow and near 40wt performance once it comes to operating temperature.
 
I'm running 0w30 in my Santa Fe. I have 80-100 PSI on cold start, 50-65 PSI at 2K RPM fully warmed up, and 10-20PSI at hot idle in gear.

Too thin? I think not...
 
Originally Posted By: disturban
I never hear anyone say 0w30 is too thin...I hear a lot of people say 0w20 is too thin though and I am one of them.


Do you mean for year round use or just too thin period?


The 0w20 I just put in my car did pour out like water.
So far the car seems to be doing fine and I will only be using it for the cold months so I'm not real worried about it.
 
Show me someone who thinks 0W-30 is too thin, and I'll show you someone who doesn't know a [censored] thing about oil.

I know several people who say "0W is too thin!" because they have NO idea how multigrade oil works.
 
Originally Posted By: chevrofreak
Show me someone who thinks 0W-30 is too thin, and I'll show you someone who doesn't know a [censored] thing about oil.

I know several people who say "0W is too thin!" because they have NO idea how multigrade oil works.


+1 is does get a little old. That and 20wt oils will ruin an engine that calls for them.

Frank
 
Originally Posted By: cornfused
Originally Posted By: disturban
I never hear anyone say 0w30 is too thin...I hear a lot of people say 0w20 is too thin though and I am one of them.


Do you mean for year round use or just too thin period?


I personally think it is just too thin period...some newer cars calls for 0w20 and I am sure it is fine in them, most of them are gas sipping economizers with tighter tolerances though. But I guess we need to think back to when we all thought 5w30 was too thin or even 10w30. However I just like that little bit of cushion that 30wt gives me, I don't care about the .03mpg more I might get running a 20wt. Both 0w20 and 0w30 should flow about the same on cold start ups in the winter...how ever is that 20wt going to be enough to really protect your motor once it is up to operating temperature?
 
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Originally Posted By: AWESOMO4000
I just looked at a bottle of 0w30 German Castrol in my garage, and it IS NOT rated as Energy Conserving! I had no idea.

just cuz its not energy conserving doesnt mean its not thin... it may be because of the additive package. thats why 5w20 maxlife isnt energy conserving
 
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Originally Posted By: disturban
Originally Posted By: cornfused
Originally Posted By: disturban
I never hear anyone say 0w30 is too thin...I hear a lot of people say 0w20 is too thin though and I am one of them.


Do you mean for year round use or just too thin period?


I personally think it is just too thin period......how ever is that 20wt going to be enough to really protect your motor once it is up to operating temperature?


Many 500,000 mile taxis that are always up to operating temperature could ease your fear. But then again BITOG is the worrying club.
27.gif
 
Originally Posted By: disturban
Originally Posted By: cornfused
Originally Posted By: disturban
I never hear anyone say 0w30 is too thin...I hear a lot of people say 0w20 is too thin though and I am one of them.


Do you mean for year round use or just too thin period?


I personally think it is just too thin period...some newer cars calls for 0w20 and I am sure it is fine in them, most of them are gas sipping economizers with tighter tolerances though. But I guess we need to think back to when we all thought 5w30 was too thin or even 10w30. However I just like that little bit of cushion that 30wt gives me, I don't care about the .03mpg more I might get running a 20wt. Both 0w20 and 0w30 should flow about the same on cold start ups in the winter...how ever is that 20wt going to be enough to really protect your motor once it is up to operating temperature?


Yup, that 20 weight is able to protect motors. It's works awsome in our 230,000 mile crown vic with the 4.6 motor.
 
Im not sure anyone here has ever explained for sure what Energy Conserving really means other than many US manufacturers list it as a requirement for warranty support and that it requires API certification. Some have said it has friction modifiers (like moly). However, there are many oils overloaded with moly that are not Energy Conserving.
Is there an authority on this board who can explain to us what Energy Conserving really is and how we could identify the additives that are needed for Energy Conserving in a UOA or VOA?
 
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Originally Posted By: el_zorro
Im not sure anyone here has ever explained for sure what Energy Conserving really means other than many US manufacturers list it as a requirement for warranty support and that it requires API certification. Some have said it has friction modifiers (like moly). However, there are many oils overloaded with moly that are not Energy Conserving.
Is there an authority on this board who can explain to us what Energy Conserving really is and how we could identify the additives that are needed for Energy Conserving in a UOA or VOA?




I always though cars in the US had to meet a certain fuel ecomomy requirement. I may be way wrong though.
 
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
Originally Posted By: chevrofreak
Show me someone who thinks 0W-30 is too thin, and I'll show you someone who doesn't know a [censored] thing about oil.

I know several people who say "0W is too thin!" because they have NO idea how multigrade oil works.


+1 is does get a little old. That and 20wt oils will ruin an engine that calls for them.

Frank


There was a recall by Jeep for Compass or Liberty to use 5w30 instead of the original OEM recommended 5w20...they must know something?
 
Originally Posted By: el_zorro
Im not sure anyone here has ever explained for sure what Energy Conserving really means other than many US manufacturers list it as a requirement for warranty support and that it requires API certification. Some have said it has friction modifiers (like moly). However, there are many oils overloaded with moly that are not Energy Conserving.
Is there an authority on this board who can explain to us what Energy Conserving really is and how we could identify the additives that are needed for Energy Conserving in a UOA or VOA?



I bought some NAPA 15W-50 synthetic with the intention of using it in my motorcycle. After I got it home, I noticed that the bottle says Energy Conserving (something I had never seen on anything over a 40 weight) so I e-mailed Valvoline asking what makes it energy conserving.

My question.

"I recently purchased quite a bit of NAPA 15W-50 synthetic oil with the intent to use it in my motorcycle. I didn't notice until I got home that the API donut says that it is Energy Conserving, which is generally something you want to stay away from with wet clutch motorcycles. I was wondering if you could tell me what levels of additives that this oil has?
Specifically I'm interested in Zinc, Phosphorous, Calcium and Moly. I've seen virgin oil analysis of the 10W-30 synthetic that showed no moly (3PPM, which is just noise) and I was curious if the 15W-50 has similar additive levels. Is there something else about the NAPA 15W-50 that might make it unsuitable for wet clutches?"

This was the response.

"This product does not contain any Molybdenum Disulfide additives in the mixture, but the specific Calcium, Sodium, Zinc and Phosphorus additive packages used in this product, do not allow the product to meet JASO MA specifications, which have to be met in order to be wet clutch approved oils. This product does not meet and is not recommended for use in motorcycle applications with a wet clutch property."

My guess is that it doesn't meet JASO MA because of ash levels, but I still have no idea what makes it energy conserving.
 
Originally Posted By: FastSUV
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
Originally Posted By: chevrofreak
Show me someone who thinks 0W-30 is too thin, and I'll show you someone who doesn't know a [censored] thing about oil.

I know several people who say "0W is too thin!" because they have NO idea how multigrade oil works.


+1 is does get a little old. That and 20wt oils will ruin an engine that calls for them.

Frank


There was a recall by Jeep for Compass or Liberty to use 5w30 instead of the original OEM recommended 5w20...they must know something?


Very interesting.

You see some engines that are backspec'd so you can run a thinner oil if desired but a recall to run a thicker oil.
 
Originally Posted By: FastSUV
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
Originally Posted By: chevrofreak
Show me someone who thinks 0W-30 is too thin, and I'll show you someone who doesn't know a [censored] thing about oil.

I know several people who say "0W is too thin!" because they have NO idea how multigrade oil works.


+1 is does get a little old. That and 20wt oils will ruin an engine that calls for them.

Frank


There was a recall by Jeep for Compass or Liberty to use 5w30 instead of the original OEM recommended 5w20...they must know something?



I have a Liberty no recalls that I know of, can you post a link or possibly the recall notice.

Thanks!
 
Originally Posted By: elwaylite
You guys keep loving your syrup, 0w-20 works fine for me.

I might too (use 0W-20) if I had a vehicle that spec'd a XW-20 oil. Since I don't, and I drive a turbo-charged 300HP STi, I prefer my GC 0W-30 'syrup', thank you very much!
cheers3.gif
 
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