flow or filtration for extended drains?

[steeltoe]

Just to be curious but what would be more important for extended drains? A free flowing moderately filtering filter ( K&N), or a more restrictive finer filtering filter ( Wix, Pure One)? I'm sure a lot would depend on the cleanleness (sp) of the engine but putting all that aside for now which would hold more value? Flow or Filtration

 

[boxcartommie22]

wix is by far not a restrictive filter. flows are 11-13 gpm and k&n flows 12-14 gpm both are very high flows..if one changes oil often like i do every 1500 miles then flow would be of importance and i use wix..on the other hand, if long drains are practiced then a good filter with a tighter media would be in order...however, the wix(glass enhanced media) would be good for both..all this is my opinion and what i have learned

 

[Al]

My philosophy is slightly different. I use the logic that over a long drain interval there could be a danger of the better filtering filter plugging up over time. As a result I use a K&N for extended drain intervals. I am not claiming this to be a valid assumption.

 

[steeltoe]

Maybe wix wasn't a good example to use. My thoughts were along the same path, would it be better to keep the oil flowing over catching whatever particles might be in the oil? It's seems like a perfect filter would be one that is a happy medium of both worlds. Any sugestions?

 

[TC]

If you have concerns about extended drains, simply find an oversized version of a brand you like. For example, the Bosch 3312 has only 81 sq in of media, while the PureOne PL24458 about 174 sq in, and the Baldwin B168 at 213 sq in, all of them mating to the same Honda and similar mounts. Problem solved, and plenty o' peace of mind, so long as such oversize options are there for ya. By the way, I suspect that pretty much all OEM type filters are made for 7,500 mi drains these days since that has become the defacto factory standard with many rides.

 

[Spector]

I have used both. A Pure One and then a K&N over a 6 year period. UOA is basically the same with a one year OCI (9000-11000 miles) but I am no staying with the K&N. Neither one really seemed to catch any debris after their use and cutting them open and I just feel the flow is more important.

 

[T-Keith]

For extended drains I would make sure I run a filter with a silicone ADBV. Nitrile ones get hard over time. This incudes Pure One, M1, Wix Gold and I won't say the F word.

-T

 

[Donald]

The Amsoil SDF filters are the only filter designed for extended oil changes (12.5K miles for filter change). They also rate number one in the SAE806 tests. For extended oil changes, the quantity of junk a filter can hold starts to become important.

 

[Thomas Pyrek]

my friend did an oil interval test with a bunch of different filters. Basically he ran the oil in his car without topping up for a certain amount of miles (2750) and recorded how dirty looking, how gritty the oil felt and how much oil acutally came out of the car.

k&n was the best with 4.3quarts coming out
Pure One was next with 4.1 quarts coming out.


(Fram was around 2.3 quarts and was the dirtiest and grittiest).

 

[steeltoe]

I'm pretty much using the largest filter I can fit because a Z-71 doesn't have a lot of room to work with 'cause of steering and such.
So a nitrate ADBV has a greater chance of going bad over time versus a silicate valve? I guess the name of the game is just read up and try whatever I feel works the best. I feel sure my engine is clean so as long as I use high quality oils flow would be rated over filtration.

 

[Neil Womack]

What about changing the filter halfway through the interval?

 

[Ken2]

I'm past 10,000 miles on my oil and filter with good analyses. No need to change the filter. I think the main reason Amsoil wants the filter changed with their one-year oil is the chance the rubber parts in the filter harden and leak with the heat and time.

Changing the filter partway through the oil drain interval does extend the life of the oil by the need to add more oil to fill the new filter...it replenishes the additive package in the oil.


Ken

 

[Donald]

quote:

---

Originally posted by Thomas Pyrek:
my friend did an oil interval test with a bunch of different filters. Basically he ran the oil in his car without topping up for a certain amount of miles (2750) and recorded how dirty looking, how gritty the oil felt and how much oil acutally came out of the car.

k&n was the best with 4.3quarts coming out
Pure One was next with 4.1 quarts coming out.


(Fram was around 2.3 quarts and was the dirtiest and grittiest).

---

Thomas - while interesting this type of test seems pretty inaccurate. There is a SAE806 test for filter capacity (grams of junk the filter holds) and another one for efficiency. I realize a normal person or mechanic cannot run these tests nor afford to have them run, but the test results are available on the filter makers websites or you can call/email them and get the results.

 

[Donald]

quote:

---

Originally posted by Ken2:
I'm past 10,000 miles on my oil and filter with good analyses. No need to change the filter. I think the main reason Amsoil wants the filter changed with their one-year oil is the chance the rubber parts in the filter harden and leak with the heat and time.

Changing the filter partway through the oil drain interval does extend the life of the oil by the need to add more oil to fill the new filter...it replenishes the additive package in the oil.


Ken

---

Ken - Amsoil suggests that their SDC filters be changed at 6 months (or 12.K miles). I believe your correct in that they feel that all filters deteroriate over time due to heat and things like acids in the oil.

 

[Thomas Pyrek]

quote:

---

Originally posted by Donald:
Thomas - while interesting this type of test seems pretty inaccurate. There is a SAE806 test for filter capacity (grams of junk the filter holds) and another one for efficiency. I realize a normal person or mechanic cannot run these tests nor afford to have them run, but the test results are available on the filter makers websites or you can call/email them and get the results.

---

I know it's innaccurate, that's why I posted the proceedure more or less so the person could realize that its a 'for what it's worth' type of post. Frankly, I'm not even sure why there was less oil drained with the different filters. I'll post this question in the oil forum and see what the educated opinions are. I'll also post the results from his unscientific test when he's done with the write up.

 

[widman]

How much oil drained is more reflective of how much was there, what driving was done during the period, what oil, etc. Once certain basic sizes are met, the life of the filter is more determined by the base oil than the filter (some compensation for additive package). Look at the SAE papers on the CH-4 and CI-4 tests. The higher the saturates in the base oil, the longer the filter life. If you have an oil that tends to aglomerate the contaminates, it shortens the life of the filter. With enough dispersants and high saturates, the filter goes for a long time.
In the 6 to 7,000 km drains we use with Delo I see no noticible change in the presure guages (only stock). In the 10,000 km drains with Supreme and Delo synthetic there is none either. The best way would be to put a guage on each end of the filter to see the drop as done in the API testing, and check UOA for particles lect in the oil (assuming we could drive exactly the same in the same weather for different filters). That's why the testing is done on a dynamometer.
With limited assets, the best we can do is stay away from Fram, stay away from a couple of other make believes that are probably not marketed in the US for legal reasons, and analize the oil occasionally to see what it lets through.