First Time Filter: Used Motomaster OEPlus MOPH2870A

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My first filter cut open and show off. Please excuse the horrible pictures, I'll do my best to improve!

1000-1500km on the filter. Engine was just rebuilt and it seems to show. Though the glitter is a bit excessive in my opinion. Engine was running 5w30 QS HiMi with Redline break in additive at recommend dose.

Filter notes...

Lots of media, tight pleat spacing a little uneven, and a bit excessive on the glue. The can is definitely where they cheapened the cost it crushed on removal and was super easy to slice open. Ironically the base plate is heavy and shows no burrs or sharp edges. The ADBV is orange silicone and it's still very flexible. The bypass valve has very little room to pull oil from as you can see that cartridge holder is maybe holding it 5mm from the bottom.

A concerning point... The filter is supposed to be 20-26ish psi bypass, and the valve opens with very little resistance. I'd say it's more likely opens at 2-4psi and suddenly becomes much stiffer once open about 1-2mm. So that's not good.

No obvious holes in the media.

I have sent an oil sample off to Blackstone, I expect not good things. As shortly after the oil change, I have lost oil pressure at idle.

It looks like the OEM for this filter is Champion.

Pictures:

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IMG_20191226_172459.jpg


IMG_20191226_172718.jpg


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Just rebuilt and no oil pressure at idle? Interested in a little more info... year/make/model/engine? Noises? Oil pressure come up with rpm? Real gauge or OEM in dash "on/off" gauge? What filter did you replace it with, a reputable one or a cheapie? Hope this works out for you. Best of luck.
 
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Originally Posted by gamefoo21
A concerning point... The filter is supposed to be 20-26ish psi bypass, and the valve opens with very little resistance. I'd say it's more likely opens at 2-4psi and suddenly becomes much stiffer once open about 1-2mm. So that's not good.


What's the diameter of that bypass valve? Got a link to the bypass valve setting spec?

Good first time C&P, thanks.
 
Originally Posted by ZeeOSix
Originally Posted by gamefoo21
A concerning point... The filter is supposed to be 20-26ish psi bypass, and the valve opens with very little resistance. I'd say it's more likely opens at 2-4psi and suddenly becomes much stiffer once open about 1-2mm. So that's not good.


What's the diameter of that bypass valve? Got a link to the bypass valve setting spec?

Good first time C&P, thanks.


Sadly there's not much out there from CT on this.

I just pulled the Fram PH2870A and the Wix 51393 spec since this filter is or should be the same spec.

PH2870A By-pass valve setting: 22 PSI

Link: http://www.fram.com/parts-search/PH2870A/

Wix 51393 By-pass valve setting: 30 PSI

https://www.wixfilters.com/Lookup/PartDetails.aspx?Part=44799

I found the champ listing details once, but those filters suck to look up.

Edit... Found the Champ page on it, no listing of bypass pressure just that it has one:

https://www.champlabs.com/single-product/?partnumber=PH561XL&id=20022
 
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Originally Posted by 69Torino
Just rebuilt and no oil pressure at idle? Interested in a little more info... year/make/model/engine? Noises? Oil pressure come up with rpm? Real gauge or OEM in dash "on/off" gauge? What filter did you replace it with, a reputable one or a cheapie? Hope this works out for you. Best of luck.


It's a built up little Suzuki 3 cylinder engine that isn't terribly stock. No gauge at the moment, just a tested idiot light that triggers at 3psi or lower. The oil light shuts off over 1000rpm on the tach. Idle down and it comes on and the engine starts to 'tick' noticeably. It loses pressure once the engine heats up.

Engine is definitely louder when cold, but goes away until it heats up then it starts ticking and the oil light comes on. Rev it up, and the oil pressure builds and it quiets down let it idle, oil light comes on and it starts to tick louder. I tend to shut it down because I don't want to damage anything, and it's a hydraulic lifters engine so no oil makes it clack fast.

Replaced that filter with a Fram Ultra so it's definitely an upgrade in the filter department. Normally I use only good filters but I wanted to give this one a try because it should have been good enough.

I just hope to god, that I didn't damage bearings or the crank.

I have had absolutely miserable luck with the Chinese made replacements for the oil pump on this engine. Luckily I can still source a Japanese made pump.
 
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The symptoms you describe indicate there is no reason to not trust the oil pressure warning light. Hope you find some luck. Were you able to measure bearing clearance on assembly at all? Maybe even try measuring them with Plastigauge when you go back into the lower end for oil pump replacement. Plastigauge is super cheap and more accurate than wiggling rods with your fingers, also you will get a visual on the bearings at the same time.
 
Originally Posted by 69Torino
The symptoms you describe indicate there is no reason to not trust the oil pressure warning light. Hope you find some luck. Were you able to measure bearing clearance on assembly at all? Maybe even try measuring them with Plastigauge when you go back into the lower end for oil pump replacement. Plastigauge is super cheap and more accurate than wiggling rods with your fingers, also you will get a visual on the bearings at the same time.


When I put her together I plastigauged all of the races and they were all within spec.

I will definitely have to check all of the bearing races again, once I get a new pump.
 
Originally Posted by gamefoo21
Originally Posted by 69Torino
The symptoms you describe indicate there is no reason to not trust the oil pressure warning light. Hope you find some luck. Were you able to measure bearing clearance on assembly at all? Maybe even try measuring them with Plastigauge when you go back into the lower end for oil pump replacement. Plastigauge is super cheap and more accurate than wiggling rods with your fingers, also you will get a visual on the bearings at the same time.


When I put her together I plastigauged all of the races and they were all within spec.

I will definitely have to check all of the bearing races again, once I get a new pump.

Copy that.
 
Originally Posted by JC1
gamefoo21

Can you cut the media away from the center tube and show us the amount of glitter in the pleats of the filter?



I'm planning on doing that, I'm just letting the media bleed out some more naturally. I'll post a picture in the next day or two.

I'm really tempted to get the oil from the filter tested. Since it was almost completely from the dirty side.
 
Originally Posted by gamefoo21
Originally Posted by JC1
gamefoo21

Can you cut the media away from the center tube and show us the amount of glitter in the pleats of the filter?

I'm planning on doing that, I'm just letting the media bleed out some more naturally. I'll post a picture in the next day or two.


Wrap paper towels around it to wick out the oil from the media.

[Linked Image]
 
Originally Posted by ZeeOSix
Originally Posted by gamefoo21
Originally Posted by JC1
gamefoo21

Can you cut the media away from the center tube and show us the amount of glitter in the pleats of the filter?

I'm planning on doing that, I'm just letting the media bleed out some more naturally. I'll post a picture in the next day or two.


Wrap paper towels around it to wick out the oil from the media.

[Linked Image]



Thanks, I'll do that.

I readjusted the idle up to 1200rpm on the tacho, and the oil pressure warning light isn't triggering.
 
Pictures of the inside and the sparkles in the media. The media was removed with an snap off knife of questionable quality.

Notes:

Lots of sparkles in the media.
Media actually cut pretty easily.
Media was rather stiff and made crunching noises as I expanded it outward.
No visible holes in the media.
A little worrying is that there are sparkles in or visible from the clean side.

Pictures, they start on the dirty side, then the edge picture, then the clean side of the media, and a picture of the filter core:

IMG_20191228_182818.jpg


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