First oil Change - Volvo S40

[B8]

I have about 1400 miles on my S40 and want to get the factory fill out of there before the Volvo recommended 7500 miles. The factory oil is a synthetic blend. Any recommendations as to when to change the factory oil? Should I do the filter too? I will be going with a full synthetic...would GC be an appropriate oil? Any special considerations because of the turbocharger? Sorry for all the questions...thanks!

 

[TR3-2001SE]

Most on this site think an early oil change is best to get out wear metals. UOA seem to prove this theory. Yes change it now. I would go to 7500 miles with 3000 mile changes on regular conventional oil like Havoline. The thinking here is engines break-in better on conventional. No proof of that theory. After that the GC or Mobil 1 would best. Not sure what weight for your engine but with a turbo I think most would recommend a 5w40 like Mobil 1 Truck and SUV oil. GC is a heavy 30 weight so should be fine.
Oh and yes do the filter to.

 

[Jay]

If you take a look at the particle counts on many new oils listed in the VOA forum, you'll see that many brand new oils straight out of the bottle are orders of magnitude dirtier than oil you'll be draining out of your new Volvo. Don't believe me? Get a particle count analysis on the oil you're running now and prove it to yourself.

Save your money and change your oil at the recommended interval--or at least prove with oil analysis (with PC) that you need to change it.

 

[adam123]

I changed my factory fill in my Dodge ram at around 1200 miles (changed to Mobil 1). Im not to keen on keeping oil thats holding alot of particulate matter in it.

 

[pscholte]

...and everyone was, of course, in shock when pscholte recommended GC for that sweet S40...I am running it in a biturbo Audi A6 and I highly recommend it...meet'em halfway...change at 3750.

 

[bkrell]

As far as a turbo goes, just use a good quality synthetic. The only special considerations a turbo adds to the equation are more heat (typically higher exhaust gas temps) and the oil-lubricated floating bearing in the turbo itself (I'm pretty sure the S40 doesn't use a ball bearing turbo). Anyway, turbos usually fail when that center bearing's seals deteriorate due to sludge buildup (coking) or what have you narrowing the oil passage and increasing pressure pushing oil thru the seals and into the intake track. With a modern water cooled turbo, this is much less of a problem.

I'm not sure about the GC, but just use a quality synthetic and stick to a traditionally short change interval. SAAB is having problems right now with late 90's thru 2003 models sludging and killing turbos due to pcv problems exacerbated by the factory-recommended 10k mile change interval. I did have a 97 900 and did short intervals w/ M1 and never had a leak or a bit of sludge. However, I just got a used '01 9-5 which appears to have been victim to the 10k changes and it is lightly sludged at roughly 1/4 the mileage of my clean 900. Turbo'd cars make more heat and need a bit more consciencious care.

As Saab proved, the manufacturer doesn't always know best. Now they're having to provide 8 year extended warranties on all these 9-5 2.3l engines.

 

[ruking77]

First of all, I would see the EXACT recommendations and specifications for oil. Next I would tend to go longer on that initial recommendation such as 5k- the full recommendded period, 7500.

 

[Tones]

I echo TR3's suggestion above. First 7.5-11k on synthetic blend (because of turbo) or Group 3 synthetic for break in. I am using Schaeffer's blend. Change at 1.5k, 3.7k, 7.5k, 11.2k. Then switch to Group 3 or PAO synthetic and go 7.5k per owner's manual. This is the schedule I am using for my Volvo. Some suggestions: Mobil 1 or Amsoil 5w30. GC would also be a good choice for your climate. BTW, my Volvo also likes FP.

 

[bkrell]

I'm telling ya, turbo cars don't like long oil change intervals. All I know is my 900 only got M1 (with a bit of chemtool to flush every other change or so)and was pristine for 191,000 miles (not even a leaky gasket or seal) where as this 9-5 I just picked up got semisynthetic 10k mile OCI's and there is a world of difference. It's not drastically sludged but there's no reason a car w/ 59k miles should be that much dirtier than one w/ four times the miles. I know we are talking about a Volvo and not a saab but a small car w/ a cramped engine compartment and a turbo is a recipe for heat and oxidation. I agrued w/ fellow saab owners until I was blue in the face that they should only be using synthetic. No one believed me until this whole sludging thing came out. Now Saab recommends ONLY Full Synthetic 0W30 for these cars.

Now I doubt there are more than a handfull on the forum I help moderate who use anything but a good synthetic and a reasonably short OCI. Perhaps they are wasting a bit of money, but w/ low mileage 9-5 engines going for about $5000 a pop, the alternative is a tad more costly.

Just my experience...

 

[ruking77]

I do a 25,000 mile OCI with a TDI or turbo diesel. I am at 68,000 miles. So my plan and goal is to keep this going to a min of 500k to 1M. So it will be interesting to compare notes with you when I hit 200k. There is absolutely NO sign of sludge or sludging.

 

[bkrell]

I'd love to show off my 900 internals as soon as I can get the hood open..... I'll see if I can find a pick I took about 140k miles and if I do, I'll post.

I wrecked it, that's why I picked up the 9-5. The 9-5 IS a little sludgy and I am trying to remedy that now w/ either auto-rx or rotella.

 

[LarryL]

Jay sez

quote:

---

If you take a look at the particle counts on many new oils listed in the VOA forum, you'll see that many brand new oils straight out of the bottle are orders of magnitude dirtier than oil you'll be draining out of your new Volvo. Don't believe me? Get a particle count analysis on the oil you're running now and prove it to yourself.

Save your money and change your oil at the recommended interval--or at least prove with oil analysis (with PC) that you need to change it.

---

I use Red Line in my wife's turbo Volvo and have not found a bad voa. I also don't mind spending the difference on oil. I do have some used oil analysis comming up, just have not sent them in. I kind of like the car and plan on keeping it. It's a 96 hedding toward 150k. My wife drives it almost a hundred miles a day to work and back. The first oil change came at 2k miles, second at 5k miles, then 5k after that. Some people question when an engine is broken in. That happens very quickly and is probably completed during the delivery to your dealership. The truck driver finished it when he drove your car off the trailer. I did a leak down at a thousand miles and it passed and I waited to 2k miles for the change, just to be sure.

 

[Eddie]

Manufactures do use extra additives and or assembly lubs in new engines. Draining the factory oil oil against recomendations may not be the best thing. I probably would go the recomended mileage or at least 4,000 miles before the first change. Your oil filter is there to protect the engine against damaging pieces.