2026 Honda first service questions?

Does Fram Ultra use a leaf spring? If so, then no thanks. If no leaf spring, then add it to my list of excellent filters.
I really do not know, it has a good filtering media though, maybe in the filter section may be indicative what kind of spring it has. manufactures are always changing around designs it seems lately.
 
I really do not know, it has a good filtering media though, maybe in the filter section may be indicative what kind of spring it has. manufactures are always changing around designs it seems lately.
Fram Ultra used to be highly regarded and recommended. I used many but they turned to a race to the bottom of quality as well as others.

The wavy potato chip leaf springs leaking, many pictures in used filter C&P's, media and glue issues, I'm not using them at this point.

Any of the brands under Premium Guard umbrella I'm good with and some of the factory versions for documentation purposes.

Things are always changing so who knows in future.
 
I just brought home a new Passport and was just thinking the same thing. Should I change at 1k? I think I will and probably use 0W-20 Restore and Protect, just because that's what I have sitting on my shelf. Here in the PNW we don't see too much freezing weather and my rig is garaged at home and at work. I could probably get away with 5W-30 I'm guessing. Here's mine, got it black friday.
Absolutely love the color! The 2026 Passports were just rolling out at a more steady pace when we bought the 2025 Pilot in May. Seriously thought about one, but went with the slightly larger Pilot which could be had for 10% off MSRP, a bonus considering my wife wanted the Pilot anyway.

Had I to do it over again, I'd be using Valvoline Restore and Protect (Valvoline Restore and Protect) from the first oil change, which I'd still do between 500-1000 miles, and install a magnetic drain plug. Thereafter, every 3000 miles until 10k and start doing UOA (used oil analysis). Valvoline Restore and Protect is not an oil designed for long drain intervals. I might start going 5k intervals after break-in. Personally, the oil life monitor (OLM) is but a data point I capture when changing the oil and document. I still enjoy crawling under and changing my own oil, even though getting back up gets harder the older I get (I'm still in shock when I see my Medicare card in my wallet).

Keep receipts for most everything you buy for the vehicle. I've started a 3-ring binder having every oil and filter purchase, every service performed, etc. Take pictures of your oil changes and filters after cutting them open and share in BITOG threads for each. We enjoy seeing them, and it becomes part of your historical record of service performed.

Use Honda's MyGarage and Carfax's Garage to document all self-service and input detailed notes, e.g. mileage, brand and type of oil and filter, tires purchased (recently bought winter tires), windshield chip repair by Safelite (that was sickening), etc. Dealer service should show up in both automatically. Unless you're having the dealer do all your service, this may be the lifeline needed in the future.

These are some of the things I'm doing, or may have done differently. By no means am I saying this is the one-and-only, most correct way to keep your vehicle in top condition, assuming you plan on keeping it for a long time, which my wife and I are.

Congratulations @Goodyearwing1 and @MStarmer on your new Passports!
 
@MStarmer - Since buying the fancier scan tool, I can definitely tell you in Normal (and assuming Eco) drive mode, Honda's VCM system is constantly switching off the rear bank of cylinders, even at speeds lower than 30mph and within a minute or two after starting driving. I believe this may be leading to the higher amount of carbon I'm seeing when cutting open the oil filter. It most certainly isn't helping the engine, as Honda has to use active engine mounts to help counter the imbalance caused when switching off the rear cylinder bank.

Using the scan tool, my testing so far shows drive modes Sport and Tow prevent the VCM system from activating. In addition to keeping all cylinders active, both of these modes automatically turn off the auto start/stop feature (this part is stated in the manual). Tow drive mode holds the gears slightly longer than Normal drive mode, but not much. Also in Tow, there's slightly more engine braking. Sport drive mode holds the gears much longer and provides significantly more engine braking. So now when my wife and I get in the car, instead of immediately mashing the start/stop button to turn it off, we change drive modes. My wife prefers Sport while I use Tow. Know that in Tow mode, the rear sensors are disabled from automatically braking if you're about run into an object. The rear camera still operates as normal.
 
Hey guys, I am going to beat a dead horse. 2026 Honda passport first oil change recommendations? Some people say the factory fill oil has special additives for break in an allow it 5000-8000 miles before changing and some are changing around 3K… thoughts on this????

Also I am going to run Mobil 1 advanced fuel economy with OEM Honda filter. Decent ?

View attachment 313339

I used Mobil 1 ESP 0w20 and Microgard Select oil filters in my Passport Elite
 
I like doing early changes on a new vehicle. Sometimes it’s surprising what comes out. I second Restore and Protect until we know if these engines will have deposit problems. Mobil 1 and Carquest Premium(or equivalent) filters continue to look great.
Completely agree with Glenda on this (as usual). I recommend Valvoline Restore and Protect 5W-30 or Mobil 1 ESP 0W-30 or any other VW 504 oil. I wouldn't use 0W-20. Better to be playing offense instead of defense when you have coked up rings and are burning oil down the road. If you do any type of severe service type of driving (stop and go etc.) just do 5k OCIs. If you're all highway in a good climate, maybe I'd trust the OLM.

The reports I've read here on Mobil 1 Advanced Fuel Economy are not reassuring. I'd personally never use that oil.
 
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If you do any type of severe service type of driving (stop and go etc.) just do 5k OCIs. If you're all highway in a good climate, maybe I'd trust the OLM.
My personal experience owning a Honda with the J35Y8 engine does not align with your normally reasonable suggestions for ICE engines. Using AMSOIL Signature Series 0w20 on a 5.6k OCI and the OLM at 50%, there was quite a bit of carbon in the oil and filter. Personally, regardless of which boutique oil I am using, I will keep my OCIs at a maximum of 5k. If I hadn't already bought so much HPL, I'd be running Valvoline Restore and Protect at 3k OCIs, at least until I was confident the amount of carbon seen had dropped significantly. Even then, the OCIs would not exceed 5k.

In regards to 0W-20 vs 0W-30, I reached out to HPL specifically about this engine when I bought the Pilot. They did some research and this was their response:

"The new J35Y8 V-6 - wow - was reading up on this engineering marvel. 3.5L DOHC 24V 60 Deg V-6 - now with hydraulic valve lash lifters which do not require manual adjustments. Does have a timing belt rather than chain - so if you plan on keeping it, it is an interference engine so do not ignore the 100K recommended timing belt replacement.

No longer has V-TEC but does have VCM - which is actuated using oil psi. The VCM can initiate issues such as carbon build up in the combustion chamber of the deactivated cylinders, oil consumption, and vibration (harsher on the electronically controlled motor mounts).

As far as a 0W20 versus a 0W30 - the viscosity at operating temperature is minimal and looking at video’s online - I did not see any oil passages that would be impacted by the 0W30 - oil cleanliness - yes.

Most were recommending more frequent oil changes than the 10K Honda is suggesting."

So even HPL's research on the J35Y8 engine leads them to suggest not pushing the OCIs. Not because they'd sell more oil, but because this engine warrants more frequent oil changes due to its design.

At least I've learned early on how to disable VCM by simply switching drive modes. One of the biggest reasons for buying the Pilot was due to its use of a naturally-aspirated V6, as I was trying to get away from 4-cylinder turbos due to long-term reliability concerns. What I didn't know at the time was I was jumping out of the frying pan, into the fire.
 
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My personal experience owning a Honda with the J35Y8 engine does not align with your normally reasonable suggestions for ICE engines. Using AMSOIL Signature Series 0w20 on a 5.6k OCI and the OLM at 50%, there was quite a bit of carbon in the oil and filter. Personally, regardless of which boutique oil I am using, I will keep my OCIs at a maximum of 5k. If I hadn't already bought so much HPL, I'd be running Valvoline Restore and Protect at 3k OCIs, at least until I was confident the amount of carbon seen had dropped significantly. Even then, the OCIs would not exceed 5k.

In regards to 0W-20 vs 0W-30, I reached out to HPL specifically about this engine when I bought the Pilot. They did some research and this was their response:

"The new J35Y8 V-6 - wow - was reading up on this engineering marvel. 3.5L DOHC 24V 60 Deg V-6 - now with hydraulic valve lash lifters which do not require manual adjustments. Does have a timing belt rather than chain - so if you plan on keeping it, it is an interference engine so do not ignore the 100K recommended timing belt replacement.

No longer has V-TEC but does have VCM - which is actuated using oil psi. The VCM can initiate issues such as carbon build up in the combustion chamber of the deactivated cylinders, oil consumption, and vibration (harsher on the electronically controlled motor mounts).

As far as a 0W20 versus a 0W30 - the viscosity at operating temperature is minimal and looking at video’s online - I did not see any oil passages that would be impacted by the 0W30 - oil cleanliness - yes.

Most were recommending more frequent oil changes than the 10K Honda is suggesting."

So even HPL's research on the J35Y8 engine leads them to suggest not pushing the OCIs. Not because they'd sell more oil, but because this engine warrants more frequent oil changes due to its design.

At least I've learned early on how to disable VCM by simply switching drive modes. One of the biggest reasons for buying the Pilot was due to its use of a naturally-aspirated V6, as I was trying to get away from 4-cylinder turbos due to long-term reliability concerns. What I didn't know at the time was I was jumping out of the frying pan, into the fire.
Interesting. Thanks for sharing the exchange with HPL. That is also a really detailed dive they did to make that recommendation. I can see why HPL has so many happy customers.

I thought I was being conservative with my 5k OCI and ignoring OLM if you have severe service (which most people will fall into)! Good to know. I've always thought pretty highly of the Honda J series.
 
@MStarmer - Since buying the fancier scan tool, I can definitely tell you in Normal (and assuming Eco) drive mode, Honda's VCM system is constantly switching off the rear bank of cylinders, even at speeds lower than 30mph and within a minute or two after starting driving. I believe this may be leading to the higher amount of carbon I'm seeing when cutting open the oil filter. It most certainly isn't helping the engine, as Honda has to use active engine mounts to help counter the imbalance caused when switching off the rear cylinder bank.

Using the scan tool, my testing so far shows drive modes Sport and Tow prevent the VCM system from activating. In addition to keeping all cylinders active, both of these modes automatically turn off the auto start/stop feature (this part is stated in the manual). Tow drive mode holds the gears slightly longer than Normal drive mode, but not much. Also in Tow, there's slightly more engine braking. Sport drive mode holds the gears much longer and provides significantly more engine braking. So now when my wife and I get in the car, instead of immediately mashing the start/stop button to turn it off, we change drive modes. My wife prefers Sport while I use Tow. Know that in Tow mode, the rear sensors are disabled from automatically braking if you're about run into an object. The rear camera still operates as normal.

Good info for those having to deal with Honda’s VCM system.

Thanks for posting!
 
@MStarmer - Since buying the fancier scan tool, I can definitely tell you in Normal (and assuming Eco) drive mode, Honda's VCM system is constantly switching off the rear bank of cylinders, even at speeds lower than 30mph and within a minute or two after starting driving. I believe this may be leading to the higher amount of carbon I'm seeing when cutting open the oil filter. It most certainly isn't helping the engine, as Honda has to use active engine mounts to help counter the imbalance caused when switching off the rear cylinder bank.

Using the scan tool, my testing so far shows drive modes Sport and Tow prevent the VCM system from activating. In addition to keeping all cylinders active, both of these modes automatically turn off the auto start/stop feature (this part is stated in the manual). Tow drive mode holds the gears slightly longer than Normal drive mode, but not much. Also in Tow, there's slightly more engine braking. Sport drive mode holds the gears much longer and provides significantly more engine braking. So now when my wife and I get in the car, instead of immediately mashing the start/stop button to turn it off, we change drive modes. My wife prefers Sport while I use Tow. Know that in Tow mode, the rear sensors are disabled from automatically braking if you're about run into an object. The rear camera still operates as normal.
That's good information. Thank you for that.

In that case - driving in Sports mode will definitely impact fuel economy switching from 3 cyls to 6 cyls. This vehicle is also a gas guzzler.
 
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