First OC on 2010 Accord K24

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Just completed my first OC on my new-to-me 2010 Accord. They are a dream to do oil changes on. Filter placement was perfect.

I ran the dealer installed oil out to ~3400 miles. It was Valvoline bulk 5w20 conventional with Honda A30923 oil filter. The previous OCI's were 10k, 8k, 9k, and 5k miles. I didn't want to run this bulk conventional out like that, and I was getting itchy to feed her some M1.

She drank 1.4 quarts of 0w40 and 2.8 quarts of Mobil 1 Advanced Fuel Economy 0w20....accompanied with a Napa Platinum filter.

2013-08-24_17-21-30_253.jpg
 
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Notice any changes in how the car ran, or if it was "smoother" after putting in the Mobil 1?

Approaching my first oil change on my 2013 and thinking about Mobil.
 
I haven't driven it yet. But I doubt I feel a difference.

The M1 mix I created should give me the flow I'm looking for at startup during northern Indiana fall/winter, and the boost in viscosity from the 0w40 should give me a light 30 weight, which makes me feel better and PERHAPS better protection.
 
That gives you a HTHSv of 3.1 which is about an average 30 weight oil. 2.9 would be a light 30 weight as that's the minimum.

And your mix is actually heavier than Mobil 1 Advanced Fuel Economy 0w30 which has a HTHSv of 3.0.

I would go for 1/2 quart of Mobil 1 0w40 next time to make it lighter and easier to dose. Gives you a HTHSv of 2.8. No real need to go thicker.
 
Originally Posted By: TrevorS
No real need to go thicker.


What is this advice based on? Or is it just an assumption based on opinion and speculation?
 
If it's flow (efficency) and protection you want, you could have saved yourself mixing Mobil 1 and used
only TGMO 0w20. If not then why not just use the Mobil 1 Advanced Fuel Economy 0w20? Are you concerned about the 0w20 alone being to thin to offer complete protection? Mobil 1 is more than capable, although some other oils bring that capability to another level entirely.
Hope you find an oil or mix that satisfies both the car and any concerns you have.
 
If you had the 0w40 lying around or it was affordable, I don't think any harm would be done. Not sure if car is under warranty or if you put the records like only the 0w20 was used.

These are fine products, probably no need to complicate it by mixing, but if you makes you happy and if there aren't warranty worries/concerns, have fun!
 
Originally Posted By: Phishin
Originally Posted By: TrevorS
No real need to go thicker.


What is this advice based on? Or is it just an assumption based on opinion and speculation?


You're kidding, right? The K24 is a 10 yr old engine, and it's been spec'd with 5W20 since its inception. "Opinion and speculation" is thinking that one of the most reliable engines ever made somehow has an inadequate lubrication spec from the manufacturer. It's been proven to work well. I think you'll be hard-pressed to fine a single documented lubrication-related failures with a stock K24. No offense intended, if the "burden of proof" is on anyone here, it's squarely on you.

I'm not one of those "the mfg always knows best" sorta guys, but 5W20 is more than proven that it works very well in this application. Seems to me if you're deviating from that spec, it should be for a reason.
 
Originally Posted By: Phishin
Originally Posted By: TrevorS
No real need to go thicker.


What is this advice based on? Or is it just an assumption based on opinion and speculation?


I gave you the mix proportions to reach a heavy 20 weight with HTHSv of 2.8, just shy of the minimum spec of 30 weight (starts at HTHSv 2.9).

That together with the fact that Honda specs 20 weight and that billions of miles have been driven in Hondas on 20 weight certainly does not seem like an assumption based on opinion and speculation.

If you're interested in what that looks like, I invite you to review your own comment:

Originally Posted By: Phishin
The M1 mix I created should give me the flow I'm looking for at startup during northern Indiana fall/winter, and the boost in viscosity from the 0w40 should give me a light 30 weight


Your mix is not at all a light 30 weight. As I calculated for you, it has a HTHSv of 3.1 which is squarely average for a 30 weight oil. You made an assumption based on opinion and speculation. I, on the other hand, did not.
 
TrevorS, maybe you can tell us about your expertise in the motor oil field. Did you work for an oil company? Were you a research chemist?

If I wanted advice here on how to get a oil mix I would ask Molakule.
 
A dream to change the oil on? You mean Honda actually changed the oil filter location for the K24? I know that most Hondas have the oil filter in a silly location where you drip oil all over the axles. Honda just finally corrected this with the R-series.

Doesn't your Accord have the maintenance minder OLM? Do you go by it? (your post didn't make that clear)
 
Originally Posted By: tommygunn
A dream to change the oil on? You mean Honda actually changed the oil filter location for the K24? I know that most Hondas have the oil filter in a silly location where you drip oil all over the axles. Honda just finally corrected this with the R-series.



I suspect it was easy because the K24 is a fairly small motor inside a large engine bay.
 
Originally Posted By: dparm
tommygunn said:
I suspect it was easy because the K24 is a fairly small motor inside a large engine bay.


The oil filter is NOT over the front axles on my 2010 Accord. It's right in center of the car, just behind the oil sump. The oil filter is vertical. When you crack open the drain plug, the oil "pees out" just under the oil filter and into the catch basin. You don't even have to move the basin when you unscrew the filter, because the filter is already right underneath the basin. That's what I meant.

As far as running a "light 30 weight" oil in this car....I've seen enough used oil analysis on these engines that the 5w20's and 0w20's (even SN rated TGMO) shear quite a bit in 6-8k miles. I just don't like the idea of running a 15 weight oil in my car at the end of each OCI.

And besides, I wonder what this car is spec'ed for in oil weight elsewhere in the world....let me see:

Engine K24Z3

· Capacity : Capacity 4,2 liter Service fill
: Capacity 5,3 liter Dry fill
: Filter 0,2 liter

Use : Normal
Intervals : Change 20000 km / 12 months
: Top Tec 4100 5W-40
: Top Tec 4200 5w30
: Top Tec 4300 5w30
: Top Tec 4600 5w30
: Leichtlauf High Tech 5W-40
Use : Severe
Intervals : Change 10000 km / 6 months

Hmmmm.....looks like in Germany, 30wt oil is just fine. Even 40wt. There must be something "special" about these engines when we drive them here in the USA that they suddenly require lighter oil....

I did just drive the car 300 miles today. To me, the engine seemed smoother and quieter. Purely subjective speculation.
 
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Originally Posted By: Phishin
The oil filter is NOT over the front axles on my 2010 Accord. It's right in center of the car, just behind the oil sump. The oil filter is vertical.


Gotcha. Thanks for the correction. I'm glad they fixed it.
 
Originally Posted By: Mystic
TrevorS, maybe you can tell us about your expertise in the motor oil field. Did you work for an oil company? Were you a research chemist?

If I wanted advice here on how to get a oil mix I would ask Molakule.


Mystic, I don't think that calculating actual viscosity from published data and the ratio the OP advised and then advising that the OP didn't have the light 30 weight oil that he assumed he had, warrants the tone of your above post.

If me doing these simple calculations offends you in some way, then I'm sorry but that wasn't my intention.
 
Originally Posted By: Phishin
Originally Posted By: dparm
tommygunn said:
I suspect it was easy because the K24 is a fairly small motor inside a large engine bay.


The oil filter is NOT over the front axles on my 2010 Accord. It's right in center of the car, just behind the oil sump. The oil filter is vertical. When you crack open the drain plug, the oil "pees out" just under the oil filter and into the catch basin. You don't even have to move the basin when you unscrew the filter, because the filter is already right underneath the basin. That's what I meant.

As far as running a "light 30 weight" oil in this car....I've seen enough used oil analysis on these engines that the 5w20's and 0w20's (even SN rated TGMO) shear quite a bit in 6-8k miles. I just don't like the idea of running a 15 weight oil in my car at the end of each OCI.

And besides, I wonder what this car is spec'ed for in oil weight elsewhere in the world....let me see:

Engine K24Z3

· Capacity : Capacity 4,2 liter Service fill
: Capacity 5,3 liter Dry fill
: Filter 0,2 liter

Use : Normal
Intervals : Change 20000 km / 12 months
: Top Tec 4100 5W-40
: Top Tec 4200 5w30
: Top Tec 4300 5w30
: Top Tec 4600 5w30
: Leichtlauf High Tech 5W-40
Use : Severe
Intervals : Change 10000 km / 6 months

Hmmmm.....looks like in Germany, 30wt oil is just fine. Even 40wt. There must be something "special" about these engines when we drive them here in the USA that they suddenly require lighter oil....

I did just drive the car 300 miles today. To me, the engine seemed smoother and quieter. Purely subjective speculation.


Could it be availability perhaps? Or maybe the longer drains mandated in Europe require something different.
This thick/thin things is old. Engines will work fine on a variety of grades,all will lead to long reliable engine life.
Why not get an mpg improvement where you can find it. Obviously wear isn't an issue.
 
Originally Posted By: Phishin
I did just drive the car 300 miles today. To me, the engine seemed smoother and quieter. Purely subjective speculation.


Mobil 1 has always run the smoothest in our CR-V (with a similar K24). Pennzoil Conventional is a close second. PP and PU were pretty noisy in it. In fact, a few OCs ago, I had Pennzoil Platinum 0w20 in it, and I drained a quart out and poured in a quart of Mobil 1 0W-40 as an experiment, without changing anything else. The difference in noise from the engine was quite dramatic. On my previous OC to this, I had Mobil 1 0w30 and it was very quiet. I have also run Mobil 1 0W-20 and it, too, was very quiet.
 
Originally Posted By: Clevy
Why not get an mpg improvement where you can find it. Obviously wear isn't an issue.


A.) My engine no longer makes that "sewing machine" noise anymore
B.) The slight improvement of mpg's found in a 20 vs. 30 weight oil is easily negated by the fact that my car engine regularly sees 5-6k rpm's almost daily. If I was worried about mpg's....I'd drive bit more conservative.
C.) I know when I reach the 10-12k OCI limit....the oil will be within 20 weight specs.
 
Originally Posted By: Hokiefyd
In fact, a few OCs ago, I had Pennzoil Platinum 0w20 in it, and I drained a quart out and poured in a quart of Mobil 1 0W-40 as an experiment, without changing anything else. The difference in noise from the engine was quite dramatic. On my previous OC to this, I had Mobil 1 0w30 and it was very quiet. I have also run Mobil 1 0W-20 and it, too, was very quiet.


Oh my!!! and your car didn't blow up? No way!! You mean, you not only put a quart of Mobil 1 0w40 in it, but you mixed it with PP? Are you insane?? This is how black holes get started!! Hokiefyd....best of luck to you for creating an evil monster that will devour the entire universe. LOL!!

I was just glad to see I'm not the only "moron" who does this type of stuff. Instead of making all of your decisions based on fear, why not "come alive" and interact with the world and see what happens. I'm not even talking about oil here, but yet I am. Life to me is so much more interesting when you can make a hypothesis and record some results. Whether they are real results or not....like you dumping in Mobil 1 0w40 in your 0w20 PP. It worked. It should tell you something. It's your DECISION to keep on using that combo or seeing if you can improve it still or perhaps you are scared and decide it's safer to make your car engine sound like a Singer Sewing Machine....
 
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