New Oil Mix....How long should I go?

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Phishin

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I bought my Accord in 2013 with 34k miles on it. It's been on a steady diet of old PU and Napa Platinum filters since. It's now at 110k on the odometer.

My stash of PU is gone. UOA's have shown that my 8-9k mile OCI's were fairly conservative. This car only really gets driven on the highway.

So today, I changed the oil and this is what I did:

IMG_20170113_171458302.jpg


This is 2 quarts of VSP 0w20 and 2 quarts of Valvoline Racing Synthetic 10w30. Plus I added about 10 oz. Of LubeGard Biotech. You think this mix is fine for 8-9k highway miles? I guess I was concerned because I didn't know how stout or weak the TBN was in that blue racing oil....
 
From what I understand, and correct me if I'm wrong, the racing oil is not road legal because it is not meant to go the distance. It is meant to give maximum protection, but only for hundreds of miles until the racing engine gets rebuilt again for the next race season. So yes, it is probably loaded with additives, but nothing to make the oil last over a longer OCI than a few hundred miles on the track. Basically regular SN oil is meant to be a compromise of protection, good cold&warm&hot starts, and fuel economy, and emissions regulations, while keeping the long life of oil. And Racing Oil is only held up to a standard of maximum protection for shorter period of time than an OCI in a street driven car. So I do not think it will hold up real good over time, even though it will be all highway miles probably.
 
Yeah, the current PDS on their site is still from 2010, though it has correct 10W temperatures, which appear to be wrong on the BITOG link above.

Quote:
The VR1 is actually a street oil with boosted zinc,so no worries there.

Comparing it to the regular Synpower 10w-30 confirms this, more or less.
dHw4VOy.png
 
Originally Posted By: Phishin
I bought my Accord in 2013 with 34k miles on it. It's been on a steady diet of old PU and Napa Platinum filters since. It's now at 110k on the odometer.

My stash of PU is gone. UOA's have shown that my 8-9k mile OCI's were fairly conservative. This car only really gets driven on the highway.

So today, I changed the oil and this is what I did:

IMG_20170113_171458302.jpg



This is 2 quarts of VSP 0w20 and 2 quarts of Valvoline Racing Synthetic 10w30. Plus I added about 10 oz. Of LubeGard Biotech. You think this mix is fine for 8-9k highway miles? I guess I was concerned because I didn't know how stout or weak the TBN was in that blue racing oil....



No need to shorten the OCI. I blended oils (sometimes 3 or4) in a single OCI for decades. My rust buckets 16-18 years later and purchased brand new, went to the junkyard with engines that only used less than one quart between oil changes and all had at least 225-250K on the odometer. Plus, today;s engines are better than the ones I sent to the junkyard in the 70s, 80s and 90s. Just three weeks ago I sent my 1998 S-10 pickup there, all rusted-out by Michigan's winter salting.

Some went to the junkyard with a clean, see-thru dipstick. Blend away!
 
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You've mixed water white Synpower SN with Synpower SL dyed a pretty shade of blue.
Not sure what the physical properties end up at, but you'll have something thicker than a 0W and thinner than a 10W at the cold end, probably.
No worries since as aquariuscsm noted, VR1 syn is no more than Synpower with higher ZDDP levels than API SN allows dyed a nice sapphire blue.
Not a very racy oil so perfectly streetable.
Ran a fill of this stuff in our Forester several years back when it was FAR for a case.
 
Originally Posted By: fdcg27
You've mixed water white Synpower SN with Synpower SL dyed a pretty shade of blue.
Not sure what the physical properties end up at, but you'll have something thicker than a 0W and thinner than a 10W at the cold end, probably.
No worries since as aquariuscsm noted, VR1 syn is no more than Synpower with higher ZDDP levels than API SN allows dyed a nice sapphire blue.
Not a very racy oil so perfectly streetable.
Ran a fill of this stuff in our Forester several years back when it was FAR for a case.


Imagine if he would have added a bottle of Kendall green?.....lol
 
OK, Valvoline Black Bottle is not recommended for daily driver applications. Valvoline VR1 silver Bottle is for street use. But it's really good oil. So you've done well enough. Just cruse on and don't worry
smile.gif
 
The VR1 syn I got FAR came in a black bottle and was an API SL oil.
VOAs of the oil showed it to be Synpower with additional ZDDP, thereby making it an SL and not an SM or SN.
 
Originally Posted By: Vlad_the_Russian
From what I understand, and correct me if I'm wrong, the racing oil is not road legal


Do you think he may get arrested for this oil change?
 
Originally Posted By: jdavis

Do you think he may get arrested for this oil change?

Lol yes. I heard from a father of my distant cousin's brother's friend that cops now carry portable UOA lab in the trunk.
 
Why are you looking for more zinc in a street driven Accord ?

Wouldn't a normal 5w-20 or 30 synthetic be better ?
 
Originally Posted By: CELICA_XX
Why are you looking for more zinc in a street driven Accord ?

Wouldn't a normal 5w-20 or 30 synthetic be better ?


I'm really not. But I have about 10 quarts of this stuff in my garage and several jugs of VSP 0w20, so I thought this would be a great way to use up this oil.

After the 2nd or 3rd OCI, I'll probably send a sample over to Blackstone and see how she's doing.
 
No need to overthink this. Just do your mix, run a reasonable OCI, and be happy. It's good oil and it won't do anything bad.

I know guys who run track cars (roundy round dirt) who run Black Bottle exclusively and get years out of an engine. And they beat on them mercilessly
laugh.gif


In your case it'll be a cruise in the park
smile.gif
 
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