Final try before I bring it to a smog check

Status
Not open for further replies.
P

PandaBear

Joined
Aug 5, 2002
Messages
26,345
Location
Silicon Valley
So I'm about to bring this Ford Escort I inherit (with lots of neglect) to smog check. It previously had way worn out spark plug, crumbling plug wire, leaking vacuum line to vapor canister, leaking air breather hose, and a bunch of non emission related problems. Previously it will not go above 55mph, now the car will run up to 75mph on a good day and not have check engine light unless it was running at highway speed, but sometimes it will still stumble and won't go above 60mph.

I've tried new generic O2 sensor, junk yard EGR vacuum regulator, junk yard idle air control valve, and cleaning the MAF and air temp sensor. Anything cheap that I should do before I go smog? I've spent enough time on it and am running out of ideas and low hanging fruits.

I heard cases of timing belt jumping a couple teeth and cracked intake manifold, but those are beyond what I can easily and quickly do.
 
Last edited:
Fresh oil will soak up HC. Water in the rad instead of antifreeze will help cool and cut NOx maybe.

Anything that cuts your power like that is probably a frying ignition module; when it runs sick check for yellow spark, should have blue.
 
Originally Posted By: AuthorEditor
PCV valve? Might be worth it cleaning out the throttle body.


Done

Originally Posted By: eljefino
Fresh oil will soak up HC. Water in the rad instead of antifreeze will help cool and cut NOx maybe.

Anything that cuts your power like that is probably a frying ignition module; when it runs sick check for yellow spark, should have blue.


Good idea on the oil change, but right now my main concern is the CEL which shows burning lean (Ford code 172). When you say "frying ignition module", do you mean the coil? or do you mean the EDIS4 (control module)?

The coolant temp, according to the gauge, goes into Normal but never above mid point of the "Normal" range. It is a separate temp sender unit that goes to the gauge than the temp sensor that goes into the ECU, so I would imagine the temperature is fine?

I've checked the coil resistances and both coil seems to be within spec.
 
Last edited:
You first need to get the fuel pressure checked. A situation like this I'd love to know what the fuel pressure is at idle and under load when the car is acting up.

Checking to be sure that the timing belt is OK is a good idea, and isn't hard on that engine. You'll need to do some research on it. I've done plenty of timing belts on that engine, but it has been long enough ago that the details are a little fuzzy without having one in front of me.

Yeah, the ignition module is suspect.
I'd also suspect the ignition coil. That coil was working overtime for a very long time with the plugs worn out like they were and that is very hard on a coil. Maybe you can pick up both at a salvage yard. It should be considerably cheaper than buying new.

Keith
 
I've seen enough electronic parts that test good with the engine off, but are actually bad to not put a lot of stock in "tests" - like the coil resistance check. Especially in a case like this.

Check the fuel pressures and the cam belt timing before you buy anything or do anything else, or else you'll just be running in circles, chasing your tail, and accomplishing nothing.

Keith
 
fuel pump or filter.
And yes... cam timing is highly suspect also.
A compression check can be a quick check. Way low or high [while being even foe all cyls] is a clue.
 
Originally Posted By: KB2008X
I've seen enough electronic parts that test good with the engine off, but are actually bad to not put a lot of stock in "tests" - like the coil resistance check. Especially in a case like this.

Check the fuel pressures and the cam belt timing before you buy anything or do anything else, or else you'll just be running in circles, chasing your tail, and accomplishing nothing.

Keith


^^^^ This...

Forget frying the ign module, that ain't likely happening, they can be intermittent but probably not in your vehicle...
 
Originally Posted By: mechtech2
fuel pump or filter.
And yes... cam timing is highly suspect also.
A compression check can be a quick check. Way low or high [while being even foe all cyls] is a clue.


fuel filter is replaced, it "felt" the same before/after according to my butt dyno. I guess fuel pump is not something I can easily diagnose without the proper tool?
 
Have you ran a bottle of CRC Gauranteed to pass?? My relatives in emissions testing states use it in a full tank before emissions than fill up with shell vpower or Chevron gas. Its 8 bucks at Walmart, it has PEA in it, so if nothing else it will clean your fuel system.
 
That car is beyond its "good if used by date". Even if you manage to get it smog checked would they let you park in your "fruit company"'s parking lot? :-)

Can you check the timing? That would tell you if the belt has skipped. Compression gauge? That will tell you if you even needs to bother with the car.
 
Originally Posted By: PandaBear
Originally Posted By: mechtech2
fuel pump or filter.
And yes... cam timing is highly suspect also.
A compression check can be a quick check. Way low or high [while being even foe all cyls] is a clue.


fuel filter is replaced, it "felt" the same before/after according to my butt dyno. I guess fuel pump is not something I can easily diagnose without the proper tool?
Should have schraeder valve on fuel rail to test line pressure, IIRC. Lean and no power read like low fuel pressure. Was the Filter on the pump pickup or in line on the unitbody rail? You would see result of low fuel pressure on injector pulse width going max. Got a good scan tool this is obdii I might guess if '95 or later Ford. Remember, I still have a coil if you need
smile.gif
Also sure Cat is not plugged?
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: Vikas
That car is beyond its "good if used by date". Even if you manage to get it smog checked would they let you park in your "fruit company"'s parking lot? :-)

Can you check the timing? That would tell you if the belt has skipped. Compression gauge? That will tell you if you even needs to bother with the car.


The car will be parked as a lunch / doctor office mobile at my wife's work place, so as long as smog pass and I can register it, I don't care if it will last another 10k miles or not. Wife will take train / bus to work and this car is just some sort of a last mile beater.

I'm not familiar with how to check timing, but I think I'll try compression. If I remember right about how a bad compression feel on my other car (Integra), this doesn't quite feel like it or drive like it. It actually feels more like the EGR is not working as expected because the stumbling at highway is sort of sudden, and goes away after you slow down for a while.

p.s. there are all sorts of beaters along with exotic cars in the fruit company, most of the beaters however are "classic" that isn't finished with restoration.
 
Originally Posted By: ARCOgraphite
Should have schraeder valve on fuel rail to test line pressure, IIRC. Lean and no power read like low fuel pressure. Was the Filter on the pump pickup or in line on the unitbody rail? You would see result of low fuel pressure on injector pulse width going max. Got a good scan tool this is obdii I might guess if '95 or later Ford. Remember, I still have a coil if you need
smile.gif
Also sure Cat is not plugged?


Yes it has a valve on the fuel rail, and no it is OBD I. Not sure if cat is plugged but why would a plugged cat cause a lean CEL (172, O2 sensor not switching)?
 
What year is your car I had an older escort from 80's ignition module fried and the car ran as you say was easy to change had it happen twice.
 
Originally Posted By: irontom
What year is your car I had an older escort from 80's ignition module fried and the car ran as you say was easy to change had it happen twice.


93 1.9L
 
With OBD-I, you will need an old fashioned timing light. I don't know if they even sell them anymore. I still have mine bought thirty odd years ago. But you are right. With bad timing, it will run bad all the time. Your guess about the EGR subsystem sounds right. Can you disable it for test drive and see if symptoms go away? At least that way you can concentrate on it.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Similar threads

D
  • Locked
smog check tomrrow. tips?
Replies
13
Views
1K
Mark in NY
Lyman
  • Locked
Passed smog test by 1 ppm
2
Replies
32
Views
12K
TFB1
M
  • Locked
Smog Check failed for Catalyst 'Not Ready'
2 3
Replies
52
Views
22K
The_Jeff
N
  • Locked
Failed smog but this is confusing...
2
Replies
29
Views
7K
steve20
T
  • Locked
I hate failing smog on the borderline
2
Replies
20
Views
8K
tadaima
Back
Top Bottom