Fightingchance.com vs CR vs ?

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Considering a new vehicle. I would pay cash, so financing is not part of the deal. What is the best method these days, of coming up with a fair price, without feeling like I am being shafted?

I've read about a place called fightingchance.com, but are the other buying services, like Consumer Reports, Costco, that are just as good?

Or should I just use something like KBB?

I probably would have purchased something a while back, but I would rather have a root canal than set foot in a dealership.

I am interested in a new Tacoma, with the off-road and towing package. My 4-cyl, access cab just isn't cutting it anymore. I can still get about $21 for it, according to KBB, so why not?
 
I have heard good things about Truecar.com to get a fair price. I have no personal experience though.
 
There are several online places such as KBB, NADA, etc that will give ballpark figures on what your looking for. Just be prepared to walk Away if the dealer won't give the figure you want. If your willing to do that, within a week they will be calling you with a deal.
 
Originally Posted By: Propflux01
There are several online places such as KBB, NADA, etc that will give ballpark figures on what your looking for. Just be prepared to walk Away if the dealer won't give the figure you want. If your willing to do that, within a week they will be calling you with a deal.

+1...Wait until the last part of the month because their quotas are monthly.
 
Originally Posted By: mcrn
I have heard good things about Truecar.com to get a fair price. I have no personal experience though.


I used TrueCar pricing for the two vehicles in my sig. I actually got them cheaper, but used TrueCar as a reference point. Just be prepared for the mass quantities of emails you will receive from them. Once you enter your criteria for a vehicle, they send it to participating dealers and the dealer emails begin. Every time you change a parameter and re-enter on TrueCar, a new round of dealer emails begin, again, and again, and again, etc... You can certainly do better than TrueCar, but at least, if the dealer is a legit TrueCar player, you shouldn't do any worse. Good Luck.
 
Fib on financing if you self negotiate the price. "Change" your mind at last minute and pay cash. You typically can get a better purchase price.
 
Edmunds lists actual purchase prices for new cars on its site.
Your best strategy might be to watch the ads and to email area dealers yourself, eliminating the intermediary.
Some will play and some won't.
It isn't that hard to surf around and find invoice pricing and dealer incentives either, which will give you some idea what a dealer can afford to sell a car for.
Don't rule out financing the car, since there are often free or dirt cheap loans available to those with strong credit scores.
You can then invest your cash and come out ahead.
Finally, you'll usually come out ahead selling your used car yourself, although there is a significant hassle factor.
Also, don't count on getting anything like KBB value in selling or trading any used car.
Probably not going to happen.
 
I always negotiate an Out The Door(OTD) price. I find out the invoice price of the new car(or trade/retail value if I'm looking at a used car) as well as any rebates and/or trunk money, subtract the value of any trade and compute the sales tax- in KY it is calculated on the difference in price between the purchased car and any trade in. The final number is what I negotiate from- the amount that I have to pay to drive the car away.

It keeps the deal clean from my standpoint- no fees or add-ons can get sprung on me at the last minute.

And as several others have already mentioned, be prepared to say "No!" and walk away. YOU will hold the ultimate trump card- unlike the poor souls who let the salesperson know that they are under the gun and need to buy a car. Also, I never hide the trade; most good salespeople will figure that out anyway.

I remember looking at a used E34 Touring at a dealer when a grimy and decrepit Grand Marquis pulled up- occupied by two harried parents and three young kids. Dad shut the car off, but it continued to diesel for @5 seconds, after which it made a loud backfire and fell silent. All I could think of was: "Sheep going to slaughter."
 
Originally Posted By: MCompact
I always negotiate an Out The Door(OTD) price. I find out the invoice price of the new car(or trade/retail value if I'm looking at a used car) as well as any rebates and/or trunk money, subtract the value of any trade and compute the sales tax- in KY it is calculated on the difference in price between the purchased car and any trade in. The final number is what I negotiate from- the amount that I have to pay to drive the car away.

It keeps the deal clean from my standpoint- no fees or add-ons can get sprung on me at the last minute.

And as several others have already mentioned, be prepared to say "No!" and walk away. YOU will hold the ultimate trump card- unlike the poor souls who let the salesperson know that they are under the gun and need to buy a car. Also, I never hide the trade; most good salespeople will figure that out anyway.

I remember looking at a used E34 Touring at a dealer when a grimy and decrepit Grand Marquis pulled up- occupied by two harried parents and three young kids. Dad shut the car off, but it continued to diesel for @5 seconds, after which it made a loud backfire and fell silent. All I could think of was: "Sheep going to slaughter."


Nicely said.

JerryBob I like Truecar pretty well, gives you the info for your area, your vehicle, and shows the prices that were paid. In the past I have found Consumer Reports' information and service to be very accurate; with it you should be able to go in, let them know YOU know what they paid for the vehicle, and offer them a fair ($500) profit.

If you are paying cash, using the ideas above about walking away, saying you'll take financing then changing, and negotiating the out the door price, you should pay what is fair for you and not get scalded by the dealer.
 
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I like truecar as well but don't use their referral- that way the dealer doesn't pay them a fee and has more room. Be informed about invoice and rebates as best you can but that is not enough-- for two reasons. First, their could be unpublished manufacturer-dealer rebates. Secondly, certain cars (particularly near end of model year), a dealer may be ok taking a loss.
For these reasons, make sure you get multiple dealers to quote while having them understand you are price shopping them and are knowledgeable.
 
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