Fellow 2AZ-FE toyota owners: what oil are you usin

[53' Stude]

Originally Posted By: ttvr4
I have a 2006 Camry LE with 140K. I've been running Mobil 1 5W-30 with WIX oil filter for 80k miles. The car is burning 1 quart every 2,500 miles. I recently stocked up on Mobil 1 5W-30 HM. I am hoping the HM oil will ease the oil burn. Anyone running Mobil 1 HM on 2AZ-FE engines?

-ttvr4


I am about 4k in on a run of M1 HM 10w40

 

[ttvr4]

Originally Posted By: car51
Originally Posted By: ttvr4
I have a 2006 Camry LE with 140K. I've been running Mobil 1 5W-30 with WIX oil filter for 80k miles. The car is burning 1 quart every 2,500 miles. I recently stocked up on Mobil 1 5W-30 HM. I am hoping the HM oil will ease the oil burn. Anyone running Mobil 1 HM on 2AZ-FE engines?

-ttvr4


I am about 4k in on a run of M1 HM 10w40


Have you noticed a drop in MPG running 10w-40? How about oil consumption, has it gotten better? Thanks

-ttvr4

 

[53' Stude]

I dont have consumption. Just noted some gnarly varnish thru fill hole.

The M1 10w40 HM is quiet and doing good. I just ordered some Valvoline Premium Blue 10w30 for $12.99 thru NAPA with my work account

Also: spoke to technical fellow today at valvoline and the zinc.and Phosphorus is still above 1,000 PPM fyi

 

[BAJA_05]

Right now I would pick up that ST. Synthetic 0W20 while its on rollback for $15.28 for the 5 quart jug and lose no sleep. Actually you can run any SN rated 0W20 or 5W20 and so on and lose no sleep for 5000 mile OCIS. My 06 had 135 thousand on the odometer when totaled and still ran great. My Aunt bought the car new & it got PYB 5W20 until 75 thousand miles then went on a steady diet of PHM 5W20 until totaled -- except for its last oil change that I put PPHM 0W20. No smoke or oil consumption over 5000 mile OCIS.

 

[53' Stude]

Originally Posted By: BAJA_05
Right now I would pick up that ST. Synthetic 0W20 while its on rollback for $15.28 for the 5 quart jug and lose no sleep. Actually you can run any SN rated 0W20 or 5W20 and so on and lose no sleep for 5000 mile OCIS. My 06 had 135 thousand on the odometer when totaled and still ran great. My Aunt bought the car new & it got PYB 5W20 until 75 thousand miles then went on a steady diet of PHM 5W20 until totaled -- except for its last oil change that I put PPHM 0W20. No smoke or oil consumption over 5000 mile OCIS.


Think I'll do this and give the valvoline stuff to dad. Wal mart close to home has ST Syn 0w and 5w oil

Thanks

 

[JohnnyJohnson]

Originally Posted By: car51
Originally Posted By: BAJA_05
Right now I would pick up that ST. Synthetic 0W20 while its on rollback for $15.28 for the 5 quart jug and lose no sleep. Actually you can run any SN rated 0W20 or 5W20 and so on and lose no sleep for 5000 mile OCIS. My 06 had 135 thousand on the odometer when totaled and still ran great. My Aunt bought the car new & it got PYB 5W20 until 75 thousand miles then went on a steady diet of PHM 5W20 until totaled -- except for its last oil change that I put PPHM 0W20. No smoke or oil consumption over 5000 mile OCIS.


Think I'll do this and give the valvoline stuff to dad. Wal mart close to home has ST Syn 0w and 5w oil

Thanks

My local Walmart still has the ST on at $15.68.

 

[SubieRubyRoo]

Adam, you should get a quart of Kreen, and dump in a pint with a fresh load of ST conventional 5W30, the Kreen will thin it a hair and work wonders on the varnish. Then after 1K, stick a new filter on it, dump in the other pint of Kreen, run another 1k, and then go with whatever your next regularly scheduled OCI (I'm sure it's whatever's on sale

) and your engine will thank you

 

[crazy_raccoon]

I've used both M1 Full Synthetic and M1 EP in 5w-20 most of my cars life (check sig). Then about 3 years ago i switched to PP 5W-20 and tried PP 0W-20 to see if there was a difference. Currently have Valvoline FS w/ML in 0w-20 to try out for this oil consumption.

 

[blupupher]

I am still low mileage on the Scion with the 2AZ-FE (almost 45,000 right now) but am using only synthetic xw-20.

First 5 changes were the "free" dealer changes using TGMO 5w-20, then 2 changes of PP 5w-20, then Auto Zone Syn 0w-20, now has some QSUD 0w-20, next change (next week) will be more QSUD 0w-20, then M1 EP 0w-20 (or is it AFE? Don't remember off hand), then after that it will either be some PP 0w-20 (3 changes worth) or Magnatec 0w-20 (4 changes worth). I also have some Valvoline Synthetic HM 0w-20, but I think that is going in my truck. That should get me out to around 90,000 miles with my current stash.

Sticking with a 5,000 mile interval (about 8 months) even with synthetic, hoping to not have the ring issue on mine.
Being a '12, I heard it may have been addressed by then.

Last change (with the AZ syn) I was about 1/2 qt low in 5000 miles, I am at 4,750 right now on current fill and it still shows full.

 

[Gokhan]

Since this engine has a known ring-wear problem, use the thickest oil you can get away with. Rings are eaten away with the recommended viscosity in the blink of an eye. 10W-40 or 20W-50 are good choices.

 

[Insertcoolname]

Currently running m1 himi 10w30
API SN

with ambient temperatures reaching 110+ DEgrees F
I feel better running full syn or syn blend.

I run whatever I can get for a bargain so I have tried
many brands over the years.
My driving style is pretty reserved, and 90% highway

I have really liked the performance of QS products in the toyota.
Particularly the QSUD 5w30 and the QS HIMI 10w30

If there were no discounts or rebates I would go with Quaker State products

 

[blupupher]

Originally Posted By: Gokhan
Since this engine has a known ring-wear problem, use the thickest oil you can get away with. Rings are eaten away with the recommended viscosity in the blink of an eye. 10W-40 or 20W-50 are good choices.

It is a ring issue cause by an oil hole issue in the pistons.

Using a thicker oil, especially a xw-40 or xw-50, would cause more problems since the rings would get even less oil.

 

[Bullwinkle007]

I got ride of mine with 320k. It consumed oil, I ran delo 15/40 for the last 100k. It still ran great at 320k, but wouldn't pass CA smog testing bc of the cat

 

[crazy_raccoon]

Originally Posted By: blupupher
Originally Posted By: Gokhan
Since this engine has a known ring-wear problem, use the thickest oil you can get away with. Rings are eaten away with the recommended viscosity in the blink of an eye. 10W-40 or 20W-50 are good choices.

It is a ring issue cause by an oil hole issue in the pistons.

Using a thicker oil, especially a xw-40 or xw-50, would cause more problems since the rings would get even less oil.


In NA, a lot of the 2AZ-FEs had certain piston rings install to my knowledge which wore down over time and the oil return holes in the piston were not drilled large enough, so deposits ended up accumulating in those holes which became blocked, made the rings get stuck and forced the oil to travel past the rings to burn up in the combustion chamber. Thats what majority of the oil consumption issues came from for these motors built in all Toyotas that use this engine from '07 - '10 based on the TSB listing. I too have oil consumption issues too but I've used full synthetic oils practically its whole life except the free oil changes from the dealer and during my oil consumption tests. I passed both times but still butn oil at roughly 1 qt per 2,800 miles according to my mileage tracking. I too agree that thicker oils may increase wear for what the motor wasnt originally designed for.

Now I also agree that the change to 5W/0W-20 oils was due to CAFE regulations requiring vehicles to be more emission friendly and better MPG but to my research, Toyota never changed the machining for these motors to compensate for those weights when prior to '07 they were all spec'd for 5W-30 oils. Newer vehicles I see the reason for 0W oils due to higher tolerances and engine design enhancements for lighter oils but those of us with oil consumption issues were pretty much left in the dust by Toyota or left hang to dry (literally with the lack of oil left).

Here's some pages i found for my '07 Scion tC manual with the same 2AZ-FE motors majority of us have with the installed oil squirters for '07+ engines. Don't forget short tripping dilutes your oil which causes it to evaporate as well which is another way of oil consumption.

 

[Gokhan]

Originally Posted By: blupupher
Originally Posted By: Gokhan
Since this engine has a known ring-wear problem, use the thickest oil you can get away with. Rings are eaten away with the recommended viscosity in the blink of an eye. 10W-40 or 20W-50 are good choices.

It is a ring issue cause by an oil hole issue in the pistons.

Using a thicker oil, especially a xw-40 or xw-50, would cause more problems since the rings would get even less oil.

From what I've read, thicker oil actually leaves a thicker oil film when scraped by the ring. I think I've also read that, for the same reason, thicker oil is considered more by the rings and LSPI increases with thicker oil (more oil left on the walls after scraped). Also, you need to consider hydrodynamic and boundary-lubrication effects, which both work better with thicker oil. Lastly, I'm not sure about piston oil nozzles but perhaps higher pressure by thicker oil may help there, too.

 

[A_A_G]

Originally Posted By: blupupher
Originally Posted By: Gokhan
Since this engine has a known ring-wear problem, use the thickest oil you can get away with. Rings are eaten away with the recommended viscosity in the blink of an eye. 10W-40 or 20W-50 are good choices.

It is a ring issue cause by an oil hole issue in the pistons.

Using a thicker oil, especially a xw-40 or xw-50, would cause more problems since the rings would get even less oil.


I’ve been using M1 HM 10w-40 in mine for about 30k miles. The oil consumption issue has drastically improved every OCI since I started using it. I was adding a qt every 1200 miles or so. I haven’t added any in 4K miles and I’ve run 10k OCI since it had 30k miles (I’m at 150k now).

 

[Gokhan]

Originally Posted By: crazy_raccoon


Don't you love the owners'-manual oil recommendations? For the same engine, they recommend 5W-20/0W-20 in the first paragraph and then recommend 5W-30 in the second paragraph. I think half the manufacturer's oil recommendations are nonsense. Any oil recommendation should be taken with a grain of salt. Use whatever you want and chances are that it will work no worse than recommended.

 

[Gokhan]

Typo correction:

Originally Posted By: Gokhan
From what I've read, thicker oil actually leaves a thicker oil film when scraped by the ring. I think I've also read that, for the same reason, thicker oil is considered consumed more by the rings and LSPI increases with thicker oil (more oil left on the walls after scraped). Also, you need to consider hydrodynamic and boundary-lubrication effects, which both work better with thicker oil. Lastly, I'm not sure about piston oil nozzles but perhaps higher pressure by thicker oil may help there, too.

 

[researcher]

Originally Posted By: Gokhan
Originally Posted By: crazy_raccoon


Don't you love the owners'-manual oil recommendations? For the same engine, they recommend 5W-20/0W-20 in the first paragraph and then recommend 5W-30 in the second paragraph. I think half the manufacturer's oil recommendations are nonsense. Any oil recommendation should be taken with a grain of salt. Use whatever you want and chances are that it will work no worse than recommended.


lol.. it's like the lawyers were talking trying to cover their rear and by covering all the options, they didn't choose any at all. too funny! Thanks Gokhan for posting that, I'm sitting here laughing at that!

I feel sorry for the people who actually try to follow the manufacturer's recommendations when reading the owner's manual. They're going to be very confused! wow.. lol

 

[crazy_raccoon]

Originally Posted By: researcher
Originally Posted By: Gokhan
Originally Posted By: crazy_raccoon


Don't you love the owners'-manual oil recommendations? For the same engine, they recommend 5W-20/0W-20 in the first paragraph and then recommend 5W-30 in the second paragraph. I think half the manufacturer's oil recommendations are nonsense. Any oil recommendation should be taken with a grain of salt. Use whatever you want and chances are that it will work no worse than recommended.


lol.. it's like the lawyers were talking trying to cover their rear and by covering all the options, they didn't choose any at all. too funny! Thanks Gokhan for posting that, I'm sitting here laughing at that!

I feel sorry for the people who actually try to follow the manufacturer's recommendations when reading the owner's manual. They're going to be very confused! wow.. lol

[censored] yeah I was too! We might as well go back to at least 5W-30 instead. Funny thing in the Scion community is that '06 and before owners barely reported oil consumption issues and those of us with '07 and after, the reports spiked tremendously. There was even a guy who owned two tC's. One spec'd for 5W-30 and the other 5W-20. Guess which one burned oil and guess which one didn't?