Fel Pro valve cover gasket torque?

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The valve cover gasket on the Miata needs to be replaced, as it is weeping slowly out of the exhaust side, as well as slowly weeping into 2 of the spark plug wells. Anyhow, the Fel Pro gasket I bought has no torquing specs, and I cannot find any on their website. I've replaced some rubber gaskets before where 'evenly snug' works just fine, but I want to do this right the first time.

P/N is VS 50569 R
 
Finger tight plus 90 degrees done in the correct sequence works every time. Chances are yr standard wrench wont even go that low, best off with a little 3/8 drive lbs/in wrench if you want it exact.
 
Originally Posted By: Trav
5.5-8.8 Nm or 44-78 inlb


Seems like a big range (which I've seen be normal before). So nice and snug should suffice then. Most torque wrenches I've seen won't go that low.
 
Originally Posted By: Trav
Yep snug will do it.


If it's a real spongy gasket, snug won't do it because it'll never get snug. On my Buick, the valve cover gaskets are solid silicone and there's even silicone grommets under the bolt heads. I can't get any kind of feel with those gaskets because they're constantly compressing. My torque wrench set at 89 inch pounds is a necessity.
 
I recommend u get the manufacture recommended torque and sequence. When I did my s10, the recommended torque was not even close to finger tight plus 90 degree. This is something u want to do correct the first time. Felpro gaskets are good to go.
 
another advice: you should consider using OE factory V/C gasket (applicable to all Japanese automobiles incl. Toys, Hondas, Mazda, etc.)

Fel-pro perma-dry has failed me many, many times in terms of longevity: they will start to leak aroudn 2~3yrs time, as opposed to factory Toy/Honda/Mazda gaskets where they typically last an easy 80k or more.

I since gave up on using aftermarket V/C gaskets, for this is one common item that even aftermarket couldn't get it right.

Q.
 
Originally Posted By: barkingspider
I recommend u get the manufacture recommended torque and sequence. When I did my s10, the recommended torque was not even close to finger tight plus 90 degree. This is something u want to do correct the first time. Felpro gaskets are good to go.


I posted the factory spec it is 44-78 in-lb. This is a wide spread so on this one snug is really good enough.
This is not rocket science and there is no sequence to this one.
 
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The valve covers on your 3.8 Buick have torque limiting tubes in them. You can tighten them as much as you want (within a reasonable amount) and notice no difference in gasket clamping.


Originally Posted By: Merkava_4
Originally Posted By: Trav
Yep snug will do it.


If it's a real spongy gasket, snug won't do it because it'll never get snug. On my Buick, the valve cover gaskets are solid silicone and there's even silicone grommets under the bolt heads. I can't get any kind of feel with those gaskets because they're constantly compressing. My torque wrench set at 89 inch pounds is a necessity.
 
Clean the threads and make sure the bottom of blind holes are clear, too. The gasket surfaces should be absolutely clean as well. It's important that if you have a life that you get the job done correct the first time. Getting to the valve cover gasket on some cars is like digging for gold. Many times the people that design cars never met a mechanic and have no idea of the hate and discontent they generate among those that maintain the very cars they design.
 
Thanks to all for the advice. FYI, I will be replacing the gasket tomorrow, and posting pics of the valvetrain with nearly 123k miles on it. No idea of the maintenance history, other than it looks like it was a well-taken-care-of car. From the filler hole, it looks pretty clean.
 
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