You better go play the lottery .... Your in New Hampshire and it never froze!
External wall faucet/spigot help
- Thread starter LeakySeals
- Start date
- Status
Originally Posted by BigD1
Two pipe wrenches should spin it off. One holding the spigot to keep it from turning, and another to turn the brass fitting off.
This ^^^^^^^^
The only thing keeping those threads under tension is the compression of the rubber hose washer. The threads are brass on bronze. I've never seen those to metals gall in threaded connections. There is no way that won't give with a couple of 24" pipe wrenches. One on the faucet housing, and the other on the hose connection. 2 pages to get a garden hose connection off a spigot?
Two pipe wrenches should spin it off. One holding the spigot to keep it from turning, and another to turn the brass fitting off.
This ^^^^^^^^
The only thing keeping those threads under tension is the compression of the rubber hose washer. The threads are brass on bronze. I've never seen those to metals gall in threaded connections. There is no way that won't give with a couple of 24" pipe wrenches. One on the faucet housing, and the other on the hose connection. 2 pages to get a garden hose connection off a spigot?
I would have the inside valve off all winter with outside one open. And the inside should have a small weep drain that you unscrew and let the water out that is in the pipe. That was the norm before freeze-proof faucets.
Originally Posted by Donald
I will bet heat will help get that shinny brass fitting off.
I get heat will melt the plastic siding.
I will bet heat will help get that shinny brass fitting off.
I get heat will melt the plastic siding.
Originally Posted by Donald
I would have the inside valve off all winter with outside one open. And the inside should have a small weep drain that you unscrew and let the water out that is in the pipe. That was the norm before freeze-proof faucets.
I agree and think that this is better then those overpriced freeze-proof faucets.
I would have the inside valve off all winter with outside one open. And the inside should have a small weep drain that you unscrew and let the water out that is in the pipe. That was the norm before freeze-proof faucets.
I agree and think that this is better then those overpriced freeze-proof faucets.
Originally Posted by zzyzzx
Originally Posted by Donald
I would have the inside valve off all winter with outside one open. And the inside should have a small weep drain that you unscrew and let the water out that is in the pipe. That was the norm before freeze-proof faucets.
I agree and think that this is better then those overpriced freeze-proof faucets.
I second this.
Originally Posted by Donald
I would have the inside valve off all winter with outside one open. And the inside should have a small weep drain that you unscrew and let the water out that is in the pipe. That was the norm before freeze-proof faucets.
I agree and think that this is better then those overpriced freeze-proof faucets.
I second this.
That's how it's done in most houses up north here, We just leave the outside spigot in the on position and turn it off from the inside shut-off. (Usually some time in October)
You also get the redundancy factor that if something happens to the outside spigot you can turn it off from the inside to service it without affecting the water supply to the rest of the house.
You also get the redundancy factor that if something happens to the outside spigot you can turn it off from the inside to service it without affecting the water supply to the rest of the house.
Last edited:
I have seen those freeze proof things break. But even before that, I also hated that those freeze proof things are all gate valves.
I moved a bunch of stuff to get to the pipe. Can anyone tell from this if its soldered or threaded? lol
Originally Posted by LeakySeals
I moved a bunch of stuff to get to the pipe. Can anyone tell from this if its soldered or threaded?
It really doesn't matter. This went from a, "How do I get the hose off", thread. To a discussion that the OP never brought up, or was concerned with. And that is changing out valves to prevent freezing and bursting pipes. Something he never mentioned he had a problem with.
Be that as it may, from the looks of the oxidation on that spigot, it's seen a Winter or two. But seeing as you have now provided a photo of where it's located, it doesn't seem from it's location that it would be too difficult to cut the pipe far enough back on the inside, pull the whole thing out from the outside, and replace the entire spigot, along with a new section of pipe. In the process you can easily install a cutoff valve inside, like was mentioned. If you care to do so, or think it's necessary.
You can measure, cut, and soft assemble everything to assure proper length and fit. Then sweat either a new spigot, or a copper threaded connector on the outside end to accept the new spigot. (That would make it easier to replace if something like this should ever happen again). Then, after you are assured everything is cut to the proper length, you can proceed to flux, final assemble, and sweat solder all of the connections, along with the inside cutoff valve into place. I've done something like this in the past, and it's not difficult or expensive to do. The main thing to remember with any kind of sweat plumbing, is to keep everything CLEAN. And while it's not entirely necessary, I've found having a MAPP gas torch helps in getting good, leak free soldered connections easier.
I moved a bunch of stuff to get to the pipe. Can anyone tell from this if its soldered or threaded?
It really doesn't matter. This went from a, "How do I get the hose off", thread. To a discussion that the OP never brought up, or was concerned with. And that is changing out valves to prevent freezing and bursting pipes. Something he never mentioned he had a problem with.
Be that as it may, from the looks of the oxidation on that spigot, it's seen a Winter or two. But seeing as you have now provided a photo of where it's located, it doesn't seem from it's location that it would be too difficult to cut the pipe far enough back on the inside, pull the whole thing out from the outside, and replace the entire spigot, along with a new section of pipe. In the process you can easily install a cutoff valve inside, like was mentioned. If you care to do so, or think it's necessary.
You can measure, cut, and soft assemble everything to assure proper length and fit. Then sweat either a new spigot, or a copper threaded connector on the outside end to accept the new spigot. (That would make it easier to replace if something like this should ever happen again). Then, after you are assured everything is cut to the proper length, you can proceed to flux, final assemble, and sweat solder all of the connections, along with the inside cutoff valve into place. I've done something like this in the past, and it's not difficult or expensive to do. The main thing to remember with any kind of sweat plumbing, is to keep everything CLEAN. And while it's not entirely necessary, I've found having a MAPP gas torch helps in getting good, leak free soldered connections easier.
I'm not a plumber. But I have soldered and welded sheet metal. Will any of that experience help me sweat a pipe so it wont leak? I'm willing to try. I have room in front of the shutoff valve to cut it off
Looking for clues. Is this diameter to small to support a twist off spigot? Also I see blue on both elbows in and out of HW tank. Example of sweat fail?
Some (many) cheap hose ends are actually soft aluminum: https://www.amazon.com/Orbit-Female-Aluminum-Repair-Tri-Lingual/dp/B004RUHARA ....Your picture almost shows some silver color in the gouge areas.
You might actually be squeezing that fitting too hard and clamping it to the hose bib. Even some careful hacksaw blade work (simulate the Dremel effect) to cut grooves into the fitting should relax it enough for removal.
Then, follow the same procedure you have done for the past years to avoid freezing and you will eliminate a lot of extra work (the KISS principle). Or, replace everything.
I've seen minor bits of blue corrosion around copper joints that never caused any problems.
You might actually be squeezing that fitting too hard and clamping it to the hose bib. Even some careful hacksaw blade work (simulate the Dremel effect) to cut grooves into the fitting should relax it enough for removal.
Then, follow the same procedure you have done for the past years to avoid freezing and you will eliminate a lot of extra work (the KISS principle). Or, replace everything.
I've seen minor bits of blue corrosion around copper joints that never caused any problems.
Originally Posted by LeakySeals
I'm not a plumber. But I have soldered and welded sheet metal. Will any of that experience help me sweat a pipe so it wont leak? I'm willing to try. I have room in front of the shutoff valve to cut it off
Sweat plumbing is easy. Don't be afraid to attempt it. As I said, keep everything associated with the soldered joint CLEAN. Don't use your fingers or hands to wipe off anything. Use steel wool or fine emery paper to remove any and all oxide, exposing the clean shiny copper and brass you are going to solder. Get a Stainless Steel plumbing brush to clean the inside of couplers, elbows, and female spigot connections. Take your time prepping everything. It will pay off with a good, leak free joint. Get yourself a can of that "canned air" they use for computers, to blow away any dust before you apply any flux.
Try to use 50/50 solder as opposed to 90/10, because it's easier to get a good joint. Even though a lot of cities code 90/10. There are literally millions of houses in the country that have 50/50 soldered plumbing. No one is dying of lead poisoning. You want to use acid core solder and soldering paste, not rosin core. Heat will sometimes draw standing water in the line to the joint you are attempting to solder. This will cause problems in getting a good leak free soldered joint. You can easily prevent this by stuffing a piece of bread into the inside of the cut off line you are building from. As soon as you finish and pressurize the line you have completed, it will dissolve and blow out any and all of the bread plug through the new spigot. Take your time, work carefully, don't shortcut anything and you'll be fine.
I'm not a plumber. But I have soldered and welded sheet metal. Will any of that experience help me sweat a pipe so it wont leak? I'm willing to try. I have room in front of the shutoff valve to cut it off
Sweat plumbing is easy. Don't be afraid to attempt it. As I said, keep everything associated with the soldered joint CLEAN. Don't use your fingers or hands to wipe off anything. Use steel wool or fine emery paper to remove any and all oxide, exposing the clean shiny copper and brass you are going to solder. Get a Stainless Steel plumbing brush to clean the inside of couplers, elbows, and female spigot connections. Take your time prepping everything. It will pay off with a good, leak free joint. Get yourself a can of that "canned air" they use for computers, to blow away any dust before you apply any flux.
Try to use 50/50 solder as opposed to 90/10, because it's easier to get a good joint. Even though a lot of cities code 90/10. There are literally millions of houses in the country that have 50/50 soldered plumbing. No one is dying of lead poisoning. You want to use acid core solder and soldering paste, not rosin core. Heat will sometimes draw standing water in the line to the joint you are attempting to solder. This will cause problems in getting a good leak free soldered joint. You can easily prevent this by stuffing a piece of bread into the inside of the cut off line you are building from. As soon as you finish and pressurize the line you have completed, it will dissolve and blow out any and all of the bread plug through the new spigot. Take your time, work carefully, don't shortcut anything and you'll be fine.
Originally Posted by billt460
Originally Posted by LeakySeals
I'm not a plumber. But I have soldered and welded sheet metal. Will any of that experience help me sweat a pipe so it wont leak? I'm willing to try. I have room in front of the shutoff valve to cut it off
Sweat plumbing is easy. Don't be afraid to attempt it. As I said, keep everything associated with the soldered joint CLEAN. Don't use your fingers or hands to wipe off anything. Use steel wool or fine emery paper to remove any and all oxide, exposing the clean shiny copper and brass you are going to solder. Get a Stainless Steel plumbing brush to clean the inside of couplers, elbows, and female spigot connections. Take your time prepping everything. It will pay off with a good, leak free joint. Get yourself a can of that "canned air" they use for computers, to blow away any dust before you apply any flux.
Try to use 50/50 solder as opposed to 90/10, because it's easier to get a good joint. Even though a lot of cities code 90/10. There are literally millions of houses in the country that have 50/50 soldered plumbing. No one is dying of lead poisoning. You want to use acid core solder and soldering paste, not rosin core. Heat will sometimes draw standing water in the line to the joint you are attempting to solder. This will cause problems in getting a good leak free soldered joint. You can easily prevent this by stuffing a piece of bread into the inside of the cut off line you are building from. As soon as you finish and pressurize the line you have completed, it will dissolve and blow out any and all of the bread plug through the new spigot. Take your time, work carefully, don't shortcut anything and you'll be fine.
Thanks for the encouragement. I'm going to try it in the spring. I have room after the shutoff valve, so the risk of flooding the house is low. But not being able to wash my truck, thats bad haha. Anyways looking at other plumbing joints I noticed discoloration. The second pic above is to the hot water tank. Is that weeping or corrosion?
Originally Posted by LeakySeals
I'm not a plumber. But I have soldered and welded sheet metal. Will any of that experience help me sweat a pipe so it wont leak? I'm willing to try. I have room in front of the shutoff valve to cut it off
Sweat plumbing is easy. Don't be afraid to attempt it. As I said, keep everything associated with the soldered joint CLEAN. Don't use your fingers or hands to wipe off anything. Use steel wool or fine emery paper to remove any and all oxide, exposing the clean shiny copper and brass you are going to solder. Get a Stainless Steel plumbing brush to clean the inside of couplers, elbows, and female spigot connections. Take your time prepping everything. It will pay off with a good, leak free joint. Get yourself a can of that "canned air" they use for computers, to blow away any dust before you apply any flux.
Try to use 50/50 solder as opposed to 90/10, because it's easier to get a good joint. Even though a lot of cities code 90/10. There are literally millions of houses in the country that have 50/50 soldered plumbing. No one is dying of lead poisoning. You want to use acid core solder and soldering paste, not rosin core. Heat will sometimes draw standing water in the line to the joint you are attempting to solder. This will cause problems in getting a good leak free soldered joint. You can easily prevent this by stuffing a piece of bread into the inside of the cut off line you are building from. As soon as you finish and pressurize the line you have completed, it will dissolve and blow out any and all of the bread plug through the new spigot. Take your time, work carefully, don't shortcut anything and you'll be fine.
Thanks for the encouragement. I'm going to try it in the spring. I have room after the shutoff valve, so the risk of flooding the house is low. But not being able to wash my truck, thats bad haha. Anyways looking at other plumbing joints I noticed discoloration. The second pic above is to the hot water tank. Is that weeping or corrosion?
- Status
Similar threads
