External Transmission Filter Installation

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This is going to be a large article with a few pictures that are 800 x 600 in pixel size, so I apologize for the long load time.

This is the install on my 1995 Mercury Grand Marquis, which was quite fun.

A little background:
After finishing a ~4,500 mile Auto-RX clean on the transmission, I flushed the transmission with 8 quarts of Super Tech ATF (to dilute/flush out a large amount of the contaminates) and then followed that up with a filter change and a 15.5 quart flush & fill with Amsoil ATF (Dexron-VI, Mercon SP, rated version).

First, this is what the transmission lines look like before the installation. I modified the upper line, which is the return line.

Transmissioncoolerlines.jpg


I've been working on this for quite some time, but finally finished it up an hour or so ago. Gary Allan is a great help when you need advice on filter installations. I got the B&M filter kit from a member on this board and purchased some hoses (two 4-foot kits) and clamps from Advance Auto Parts for ~$15.

Hoses used:
HoseUsed.jpg


I mounted the filter assembly on the frame rail going in front of the radiator, and is accessible from the underside of the bumper.

TempFilterCarShot.jpg


I started by connecting the hoses to the filter assembly.

FilterConnected.jpg


Then mounted the filter to one of the available bolt holes on the frame rail. I could only use one bolt, as there is only one hole in the frame fail, but I used two heavy-duty zip ties, which are routed through the other bolt holes and around the long openings on the frame. After tightening, I wiggled everything and the assembly did not budge at all. I also routed the hoses behind the side plastics, and that is what the brown piece is in front of the hoses.

FinalMount.jpg


When the hoses come through the side plastics, they are visible and accessible from the wheel well. There is a plastic shield under the engine and has a large enough opening for the two hoses to be routed into the engine bay.

HoseRoute.jpg


Now, removing the entire return line is an absolute pain in the a**, but it was necessary so I wouldn't have any metal shavings in the line. I had to remove the metal bracket that is connected to the engine and is wrapped around the transmission lines. It can be discarded once it's removed, as the bolt will not go back into the hole, and the metal bracket will most likely get deformed from the bending that is required to remove it. Due to the clearances underneath, you basically have to slice the transmission line in two, which is what I did.

linesremoved.jpg


I then taped off the parts that I plan to cut off each line, and used a hacksaw to slice the line.

radiatorconnection.jpg


transmissionconnection.jpg


I then took a blade and deburred the inside of the metal line, and used a grinder to smoothen out the cut marks and edges. Then I dipped the ends in some old ATF, and used compressed air (~80 psi) to blast out the lines, just to verify that any metal shavings were removed from the lines.

After installing the lines, I eyeball measured the amount of hose I would need, then cut them and inserted the metal line into the rubber hose. Sliding the rubber hose onto the metal line that is coming from the transmission was a b**** because of the angle of the bend on the line. I finally managed it by removing the plastic shield and using two hands. I used standard clamps and tightened them to where the lines would no longer budge when tugged. I tugged on the lines several time and nothing moved, so it sounds like I got it on there good. Now the installation is done!

done.jpg


After I was done, and verified that all connections were tight, I started the car and checked for leaks. I saw no leaks so I then added 1/2 quart of Amsoil ATF. I drove around for 6-7 miles, with speeds from 25-55 mph, and then checked the fluid level, and added 8 ounces, which brought it to the crosshatched marks on the dipstick. So that is a 3/4 quart increase in fluid capacity.

Sure not many Crown Victoria/Grand Marquis/Town Car owners are going to install this, but it gives some good step by step ideas for all cars. Hope you all enjoyed this read.
 
Good work, pal! Nice photo documentation too. I'm glad that I was able to provide some help in the process ...though, as you can see, the go juice was all yours.
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Very nice! Looks like you found a great place to put the filter there in the front bumper area.

I've yet to find a nice area on my '07 Tundra. On the other hand, we've had two rainy weekends in a row so I haven't put the truck up on ramps to look underneath yet.

thanks much,
ben
 
On a side note - Any leaks where the hardlines go into the hose?

(I ran out of edit time or this would have been in my post above.)

Reason I ask is that recently I scored a Ford tranny filter kit off of eBay. They include these nice little fittings (compression?) that go from hardline tube to trans hose. Install instructions note to cut hose then install these, then go to trans hose and the filter:

trans barbs.jpg


But then if they aren't leaking, why mess with success?

thanks much,
ben
 
No leaks at all, and the lines do not budge at all when tugged. Flaring the line would work too, but the metal line barely slips into the rubber hose, so I don't think I have to worry about ATF being pushed around the cut in the metal line.

Also to add, I tried using a tubing cutter but it was a piece of s***. It wouldn't stay straight on the line, so I ended up spiraling up the line, instead of staying in one spot and cutting it.
 
So was this just a two-beer job, or were there more empties than what I see in picture #8?
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I wouldn't ..and, last time I did mine, I would need some type of extension to make it work. Your suction port is relatively small compared to the size of most composite trans filters. The velocity, if that was extended, might suck some debris in that can cause issues (just pulling stuff out of my behind here). I think that we rarely seen a suction filter clog ..but I imagine one final change out, with auxiliary filtration installed, would assure most people that it was good for most lifetimes.
 
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So was this just a two-beer job, or were there more empties than what I see in picture #8?

That's my dad's mess, I hate the taste of beer, but give me whiskey any day of the week!

Though I was not under the influence in any way...this time...
 
I would definitely get the hose barb compression fitting and install at some point. At the very least re-tighten that hose clamp from time to time. I spliced into the cooler line on my wife's 94 Buick Lesabre just as you did but for an aux. cooler, and that hose blew off as we were going down the interstate one very hot day and blew out 5 quarts of synthetic ATF in about 20 seconds. Ended up flaring the line some to prevent a re-occurence, but the fitting would have been better from the beginning.
 
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I would definitely get the hose barb compression fitting and install at some point. At the very least re-tighten that hose clamp from time to time. I spliced into the cooler line on my wife's 94 Buick Lesabre just as you did but for an aux. cooler, and that hose blew off as we were going down the interstate one very hot day and blew out 5 quarts of synthetic ATF in about 20 seconds. Ended up flaring the line some to prevent a re-occurence, but the fitting would have been better from the beginning.

The metal lines have a bend in them, and I slipped the rubber hose on enough to go past that bend, which is where I have the hose clamp. If it is to loosen, it will definitely catch the clamp there at the bend. Though I will be checking the tension often to avoid that happening.
 
Very nice job!
And a super post.
Do you have an auxilary cooler?
It is good to see someone else keeping their old girl going as long a possible :-)
 
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Very nice job!
And a super post.
Do you have an auxilary cooler?
It is good to see someone else keeping their old girl going as long a possible :-)

No I don't have an auxillary cooler, just the stock radiator cooler. And I don't intend to add one, as synthetic ATF and better filtration is one of the best combinations to do. However, if I towed, raced, or drove the s*** out of my car, then a cooler would be installed, no questions asked.
 
Great job man. Looks like you did a clean install. Don't even worry about the hose. I've ran push-lok hose for over 50k miles on our Accord's tranny filter with no problems whatsoever and I have recently installed a Frantz bypass filter on my truck with push-lok. The hose will probably rip somewhere in the middle before it comes off or rips at the barbs.

Of course you never know but make sure you use the right hose. Maybe that's why it ripped on the guy who posted above.
 
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I have been using fuel injection clamps on the trans hoses. They seal and are more secure under higher pressure. Perfect for higher trans pressure.

Those worm drive clamps really suck. Plus they tighten the hose and it causes a spot that is more likely to leak. The fuel injection clamps are more of a pain to install but I think it is worth it. They are much less likely to leak. I hate having to go back and retighten clamps.

I feel the worm drive clamps are better for under 20 psi range.........
 
I really dislike worm-clamps too.

It seems that I always get leaks at first and have to really crank down on them to get them to stop leaking. Then, I have to re-tension them almost yearly. When I put all new hoses on my Ranger, I even had a defective bunch that would loosen up all on their own!

Can you post a link to the fuel injection type of clamps? Would like to check them out.

I bought spring-clamps like the car makers use for my tranny filter - at least they will stay tight!

thanks,
ben
 
If you really want to get advanced, use a heat gun while applying them. It softens the hose enough (not too much) to allow the clamp to form the hose around the barb. We used this technique with semi-rigid black tubing that we stuck in closed trenches at work. It's the heating/cooling cycles that loosens them.
 
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I check my hoses and connections regularly and so far nothing is remotely loose. I even give the hoses a good tug and nothing budges. When I tightened the clamps, I turned it until the hose began to go inside the openings in the clamp. I then tugged and twisted at the connections, and nothing budged. I will continue to check them periodically as well.
 
The most I've ever done on an automotive application is check/re-tighten when warm/hot. I've never used a heat gun in those applications.

Hmmm..this could become some new "signature technique" (thought cloud)
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How fast do you think we can get this around the internet??
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