Excessive Rotor Runout Every 15K Miles
- Thread starter barlowc
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Take the rotor off and put it back on 180 deg from the original place.
Then measure it. Maybe 90 deg - whatever works best.
This is indexing .
But like I said .001" is nothing.
A good cleaning of the hub is also crucial.
Then measure it. Maybe 90 deg - whatever works best.
This is indexing .
But like I said .001" is nothing.
A good cleaning of the hub is also crucial.
The original measurements of eleven or twelve ten-thousandths of an inch are nothing. As said above, runout specs range from two to three thousandths up to five thousandths of an inch. I used a dial indicator on mine the last time I replaced the discs, the runout was 0.003", and they were (and remain) smooth.
For the OP, I'd sandpaper the discs, clean them well with solvent, and switch to a higher performance pad.
For the OP, I'd sandpaper the discs, clean them well with solvent, and switch to a higher performance pad.
So I visited my friendly Nissan dealer this evening and spoke with the Service Advisor. He said that they see A LOT of Altimas, both coupes and sedans, with brake vibration/pulsing issues. Turning the rotors will resolve the issue for a while, but then it comes back.
He told me that the Genuine Nissan replacement rotors and pads are NOT the same parts as those put on in the factory. He also said that after a brake job using the Genuine Nissan replacement parts, customers don't experience the recurring brake vibration/pulsing issues.
Whether or not they can do anything for me is above his pay grade, so I need to call and talk with the head of the service department and see if he has any pull with corporate Nissan. If not, which I'm assuming is going to be the case, I'll just do my own brake job. The price the dealer quoted me this evening for new rotors and pads, front and year, was around $850.
He told me that the Genuine Nissan replacement rotors and pads are NOT the same parts as those put on in the factory. He also said that after a brake job using the Genuine Nissan replacement parts, customers don't experience the recurring brake vibration/pulsing issues.
Whether or not they can do anything for me is above his pay grade, so I need to call and talk with the head of the service department and see if he has any pull with corporate Nissan. If not, which I'm assuming is going to be the case, I'll just do my own brake job. The price the dealer quoted me this evening for new rotors and pads, front and year, was around $850.
MolaKule
Staff member
Quote:
My question is did they turn the rotors on the car or off? And also did they measure run out before and after machining installed on the car, since that's what matters? I'm betting they just made up the numbers and turned the rotors off the car.
Your pulsation is coming back probably because the run out as installed on the car is not being corrected. You'll probably need new rotors and the run out measured on the car or have the rotors turned while on the car.
I would get new rotors.
Does the Accura have the integrated Hub/Rotors or are they separate? My front rotors on the PathFinder are integrated and cost a fortune but do last quite a long time.
My question is did they turn the rotors on the car or off? And also did they measure run out before and after machining installed on the car, since that's what matters? I'm betting they just made up the numbers and turned the rotors off the car.
Your pulsation is coming back probably because the run out as installed on the car is not being corrected. You'll probably need new rotors and the run out measured on the car or have the rotors turned while on the car.
I would get new rotors.
Does the Accura have the integrated Hub/Rotors or are they separate? My front rotors on the PathFinder are integrated and cost a fortune but do last quite a long time.
Install new rotors, quality ceramic pads (like Akebono ProACT or Centric Posi-Quiet, etc.), and be done with it.
The dealer should have never cut the rotors a second time. That's just asking for the disc's to warp again. When you do the brake job, make sure to clean the hub with sandpaper, or a cookie if you have air tools. Also remember to service the caliper bracket, by removing any rust in the areas where the pads slide with a wire brush. Finally remember to relube everything. Silicone paste on the slide pins, and brake grease, or anti-sieze on the pad ears.
Finally consider a brake fluid flush while you are in there.
It's not going to make a difference in your pulsation. But brake fluid is hygroscopic, over time it turn corrosive, and will lower it's boiling point. It's cheap insurance, and will only cost you between $5-$8.
The dealer should have never cut the rotors a second time. That's just asking for the disc's to warp again. When you do the brake job, make sure to clean the hub with sandpaper, or a cookie if you have air tools. Also remember to service the caliper bracket, by removing any rust in the areas where the pads slide with a wire brush. Finally remember to relube everything. Silicone paste on the slide pins, and brake grease, or anti-sieze on the pad ears.
Finally consider a brake fluid flush while you are in there.
It's not going to make a difference in your pulsation. But brake fluid is hygroscopic, over time it turn corrosive, and will lower it's boiling point. It's cheap insurance, and will only cost you between $5-$8.
Originally Posted By: barlowc
So I visited my friendly Nissan dealer this evening and spoke with the Service Advisor. He said that they see A LOT of Altimas, both coupes and sedans, with brake vibration/pulsing issues. Turning the rotors will resolve the issue for a while, but then it comes back.
He told me that the Genuine Nissan replacement rotors and pads are NOT the same parts as those put on in the factory. He also said that after a brake job using the Genuine Nissan replacement parts, customers don't experience the recurring brake vibration/pulsing issues.
Whether or not they can do anything for me is above his pay grade, so I need to call and talk with the head of the service department and see if he has any pull with corporate Nissan. If not, which I'm assuming is going to be the case, I'll just do my own brake job. The price the dealer quoted me this evening for new rotors and pads, front and year, was around $850.
There are Nissan Value line pads (which is probably what he is referring to) and Genuine Nissan. Those are two very different grades.
Measure the rotor runout, use a brake align plate if needed, and install a set of more aggressive pads such as Stoptech 309 Street Performance.
You will likely never fix the problem entirely, but this may make it go away for a bit longer.
So I visited my friendly Nissan dealer this evening and spoke with the Service Advisor. He said that they see A LOT of Altimas, both coupes and sedans, with brake vibration/pulsing issues. Turning the rotors will resolve the issue for a while, but then it comes back.
He told me that the Genuine Nissan replacement rotors and pads are NOT the same parts as those put on in the factory. He also said that after a brake job using the Genuine Nissan replacement parts, customers don't experience the recurring brake vibration/pulsing issues.
Whether or not they can do anything for me is above his pay grade, so I need to call and talk with the head of the service department and see if he has any pull with corporate Nissan. If not, which I'm assuming is going to be the case, I'll just do my own brake job. The price the dealer quoted me this evening for new rotors and pads, front and year, was around $850.
There are Nissan Value line pads (which is probably what he is referring to) and Genuine Nissan. Those are two very different grades.
Measure the rotor runout, use a brake align plate if needed, and install a set of more aggressive pads such as Stoptech 309 Street Performance.
You will likely never fix the problem entirely, but this may make it go away for a bit longer.
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