Brake shudder, pad transfer and runout

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Aug 21, 2013
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Central Maryland
As many here know, I've been beating the drum of low rotor runout being essential to a good brake job. I try to include a nod to the possibility of poor break-in/pad imprinting as well, as well as the other oft-overlooked basics, like checking pin lubrication (as well as pad ear track condition on the Dakota's different brake design.) With the exception of my Dakota, I've been getting 80K+ lifetimes with zero shudder out of front disc brakes on my vehicles.

My 2 vehicle history of runout-managed, well lubricated disc brake installs:

The Pilot fronts, now at 214K, has 1 year 11 months and 42K miles on NAPA Ultra Premium rotors and AdaptiveOne pads. The previous set went 5 years, 3 months and 76K miles on Dealer on-vehicle resurfaced OEM rotors and a new set of pads, and had 10K or more life on them before I replaced them. The rears are grindy/noisy after 2 years, 5 months and 54K miles due pin boot failure, the lower pins on both sides getting washed of grease and locking up, tilting the pads. This has been corrected, and the pads and rotors will be replaced soon, but still no shudder. Previous dealer installed rear pads lasted 9 years, 7 months and 62K miles.

The Corolla, now at 192K, I replaced the OEM front brakes in 2014 at 105K miles, has 4 years, 9 months, and 87K on the Centric rotors and Wagner ThermoQuiet pads. I have to regrease the TQ pads every 18 months or so to keep them quiet. The rear shoes are still OEM with 192K miles, but are ready for replacement soon.

The Dakota disc brakes are a set of special degenerative cases (rust, seized calipers) that I may discuss in a later thread, but shudder has not been a problem since I started measuring runout about a decade ago.

Which brings me to my new-to-me, low mileage 2010 Camry LE. It had slight brake shudder when I bought it, which over 700 miles quickly got worse. A few days ago I pulled the front disc brakes down for a clean, inspect, and lube. I measured runout of both front rotors, both are solid at .001" of runout. However the left side has significant uneven pad transfer issues (see picture). Since I had it apart and no new rotors available, late in the evening with parts shops closing up, I had nothing to lose and scuffed up that rotor with the well-worn 80-grit belt on my belt sander, and then proceeded to do a pad break-in procedure. (Several consecutive hard near-stops without fully coming to a stop.) It was just an experiment, I figured I'd be replacing them the next day when the parts store was open.

Well, whaddya know, brake shudder went from worrisome/annoying to barely there. 100 miles later and it's even better. The pads have 1/2 or more of their life left at 40K miles (assuming they are OEM, they look like Toyota pads and pad back shims, and wear depth is just about right.) I'll run them until worn out or shudder returns, and report back.

And from now on, I will give more than a passing nod to the issues of pad imprinting in the absence of runout.




Camry_181847042cropped.jpg
 
I've always thought the "traditional" means of breaking in brake pads wasn't supposed to be done with OEM-level NAO "ceramic" pads?
 
Originally Posted by Donald
The areas you have marked, could you feel anything with your finger?

Feel like a bump or transition, no. A surface finish difference with a fingernail, just barely. Yet the shudder was prominent. Remember runout was only .001".
 
I certainly agree, proper lubrication of caliper pins and making sure pads move somewhat freely in the brake hardware are very important to a brake job, but I never considered break in to be a factor in runnout, or premature runnout. But it's something I'll look into now.

Hub prep is important (rust removal, etc). Properly and evenly torquing the wheel is also considered crucial, as that can slightly warp a rotor as well.

My biggest pet peaves I'm having with brake jobs right now is noise. The hardware fit, the pad fit? Just is garbage. Always making adjustments. The rotor quality actually seems to have gone up - not sure if that's from customer complaints/comebacks - but it seems like we never see comebacks for warped rotors lately. And we don't get "pad noise" much anymore. Just hardware that seems to not fit properly, hit the rotor and have to be adjusted.

The Synthetic greases we use has changed over the years...used to use this clear paste from 3M, liked it. Then went to a black Synthetic brake grease, liked that. Then it was a purple paste, which seemed good at first but then we started noticing that it was drying out on caliper pins way too quickly. So we switched to this dark Forrest green looking Synthetic grease, which supposedly is "much better". We shall see.
 
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Originally Posted by Railrust


The Synthetic greases we use has changed over the years...used to use this clear paste from 3M, liked it. Then went to a black Synthetic brake grease, liked that. Then it was a purple paste, which seemed good at first but then we started noticing that it was drying out on caliper pins way too quickly. So we switched to this dark Forrest green looking Synthetic grease, which supposedly is "much better". We shall see.

The 3M stuff is a silicone grease which doesn't harm rubber - those greases you mention are Permatex ones which are known to swell rubber and can cause more harm than good. For metal-on-metal contact it could work. But I think a silicone or glycol/castor oil based(Toyota or Sil-Glyde) grease is better for sliding parts with rubber.
 
Proper rotor and pad break-in is the KEY to eliminating brake shudder/pulsing. It's even more important than runout, since runout is only rarely found to a degree that it causes problems.
 
Originally Posted by code5coupe
Proper rotor and pad break-in is the KEY to eliminating brake shudder/pulsing. It's even more important than runout, since runout is only rarely found to a degree that it causes problems.

I have a very limited subset of data, my own little fleet. From that, though, I can say both are very important. If minimal runout is exceeded, shudder problems will occur down the line... and on new rotor installs, I have had to correct runout several times to get it below factory spec. Perhaps others have been more fortunate.
 
Originally Posted by nthach
I've always thought the "traditional" means of breaking in brake pads wasn't supposed to be done with OEM-level NAO "ceramic" pads?

I'm pretty sure a belt sander wasn't recommended, either.
 
One thing I did recently was switch to ceramic lubricant on the clips and ears of the pads, as well as the piston and back of the pads. I then used regular Silglyde on the pins and boots and it made a big difference in performance. I switched to Bosch QuietCast ceramic pads and did the break in sequence. I am blown away by the performance. Doing the fronts tomorrow actually the same way.
 
Originally Posted by adomzz
One thing I did recently was switch to ceramic lubricant on the clips and ears of the pads, as well as the piston and back of the pads. I then used regular Silglyde on the pins and boots and it made a big difference in performance. I switched to Bosch QuietCast ceramic pads and did the break in sequence. I am blown away by the performance. Doing the fronts tomorrow actually the same way.

Lately I've been using Goodson PasteLub, a high solids, high temp brake lubricant for pads and clips, and Silglyde for pins. So far it's been good, but it's only been a couple of years. Previously used Silglyde everwhere, and found it washed off the pad backs and ears in less than a year.

Back to the Camry, a month and almost 3K miles later, and the shudder is totally gone. So, I can recommend the belt sander method of getting rid of pad glazing.
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Just an update, I've put on over 4K miles since I belt sanded the glazed front rotor (yes I am piling on the miles). Braking is smoother and better then ever. It was a desperation, temporary holdover move that worked out better then expected.

If I still worked in my old job I would have brought it into work and skimmed it a thou or two. Now I have a race shop that charges $25. Either way it would have been out of service another 24 hours.
 
There is absolutely a pad to rotor break in procedure, normally it consists of driving and pressing the pedal harder and eventually some emergency type stops. All the other posts regarding grease type etc apply
 
Great post. I appreciate the careful work and mastery approach.

Why is it toyota seems to have more pulsation issues? With my own 2 ‘yota products, and work done for several friends, they seem susceptible to it more than others. while I don’t have the measurement tools to check with, I’ve suspected pad/lubrication/bedding issues as #1 with rotor driven causes being lower on the list.

what’s been working for me has been to ditch the long-life pad formulations such as akebono. I could never get them to properly bed in my tundra. The EHT/element3 pads have been really good for me here- they seem to interact more with the rotor, as well as tend to wear the rotor slightly more, with the result of pulsation not developing. Flip side is they are more prone to cold squeal, even with shims, grease and qrc goop.

now, I say all that, and my Lexus GS has shown a touch of pulsation after rotating the tires 2 weeks ago. Surfaces were clean, and lugs set with a torque wrench. the rotors did not come off at that time. Not sure what’s happening there. I plan to check the torque.

thoughts on that?
 
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