Ex-Mechanics Oil Choice...

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Was talking to a co-worker/ex-mechanic about oil (of all things)
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and he said he runs straight 30W or 40W in the summer and straight 20W or 10w30 in the winter. Why the straight weights? because the multi-vis oils will thin out after 1000 miles. And all his vehicles have been driven in excess of 200K miles.
 
First, there is no such thing as an 'ex' mechanic!
Like a cook, you have the job for life!

Like most people, mechanics are virtually untrained in oils and lubes.
What makes them dangerous is that they have some sort of initial credibility. This also applies to many other fields.

He is making very poor choices.
 
Originally Posted By: mechtech2
First, there is no such thing as an 'ex' mechanic!
Like a cook, you have the job for life!


Like most people, mechanics are virtually untrained in oils and lubes.
What makes them dangerous is that they have some sort of initial credibility. This also applies to many other fields.

He is making very poor choices.




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man,that reply was the best!
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A great regimen with the wrong oil is probably better than the right oil not changed or topped off. Oil itself has gotten better and makes everyone a success story with 200k vehicles.
 
Don't think he's making poor choices at all.

It's old-fashioned thinking, for sure, but with 200k on his vehicles - who are you saying is making the wrong choice?

I would just love to know where he gets a steady supply of strainght 20W...don't see THAT too often!
 
Originally Posted By: mechtech2
First, there is no such thing as an 'ex' mechanic!
Like a cook, you have the job for life!

Like most people, mechanics are virtually untrained in oils and lubes.
What makes them dangerous is that they have some sort of initial credibility. This also applies to many other fields.

He is making very poor choices.

This.
 
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A mechanic recommending a nonspecified viscosity?

Who knew??


Conventional SAE 40, dead winter in Michigan. Honda Civic.

Your choice. Not mine.

Still searching for a mechanic who knows tribology.
 
His summer choice is pretty smart, IMO. In the winter, though, I'd definitely stick with a 5w30. Regardless, can't argue with the service life he's getting out of those things
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Originally Posted By: addyguy
Don't think he's making poor choices at all.

It's old-fashioned thinking, for sure, but with 200k on his vehicles - who are you saying is making the wrong choice?

I would just love to know where he gets a steady supply of strainght 20W...don't see THAT too often!


Red-E oil is straight 20W, and a darn good oil.
 
Did he detail what the advantages here are? I would bet any "advantage" is either untrue, or negated by some other factor of not having a multi-viscosity oil. By chance, he didn't say that Pennzoil causes sludge, did he?
 
mechanics and motor oil are like police and radios.
they know how to use it, but they really have no knowledge as to how it works
 
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I know a mechanic up here who is very old school, and knows his stuff. One thing he does not know is oil.

He recommends 10w30 in everything, no matter what the OEM spec is.

5w30 is just too thin to protect the engine.

Also castrol GTX is the oil to buy, and fram filters are the best.

No he hasn't ever had a problem with oil, that just proves that you can run just about any multi-weight grade in a modern engine and not have a problem.

I stick with what the book says..
 
is it even possible for neglected vehicles to not make 200k today? not meaning like never changes oil... but seriously. can't the cheapest $0.99 oil changed twice a year make it to 200k?
 
Originally Posted By: NismoMax80
is it even possible for neglected vehicles to not make 200k today? not meaning like never changes oil... but seriously. can't the cheapest $0.99 oil changed twice a year make it to 200k?

My '94 LS400 used any brand dino/syn on sale with 6-7k/6mo OCI with dino and 12-14k/12mo OCI with syn, 1 oil filter per year, it is more than 250k miles now without any engine problem.
 
Originally Posted By: tinmanSC
Did he detail what the advantages here are? I would bet any "advantage" is either untrue, or negated by some other factor of not having a multi-viscosity oil.


He says the multi-vis oils tend to thin out after 1000 miles. And if he can't get the straight 20w he'll go with a 10w30.
Looks like no concern for startup protection other than film.
 
Any grade will suffice if it is changed regularly?
Doesn't mean his choices are the best, but it has worked for him.
What kind of OCI does he practice?
I'd bet its old-school short.
 
Reminds me of the "old timer" at work. He got 3 ASE's and is the mechanic to end mechanics. Don't tell him that they expired literally in 12/09.

Anyway, according to him VW use "methanol glycol" coolant and "mineral based power steering fluid." By the way, when he says mineral based, he means "non-petroleum." He also says that lawnmowers use non-detergent oil. What do mechanics know? hahahhaha. Oh and the "old timer" is only 31, but talks and acts like he is 72.

I digress.......as for the original post. All I can say is good luck. I will stick with relevant information and not some non-sense from 25 years ago.
 
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Originally Posted By: Warstud
Why the straight weights? because the multi-vis oils will thin out after 1000 miles. And all his vehicles have been driven in excess of 200K miles.

That's actually true, most multi-vis oils do thin out after 1-1.5k. Just look at some of the used oil analysis where samples were taken every 1000 miles or so.
 
Originally Posted By: The Critic
Originally Posted By: Warstud
Why the straight weights? because the multi-vis oils will thin out after 1000 miles. And all his vehicles have been driven in excess of 200K miles.

That's actually true, most multi-vis oils do thin out after 1-1.5k. Just look at some of the used oil analysis where samples were taken every 1000 miles or so.


But they are still within grade! Aside from the big shear-offenders (Mobil 0w40) this probably is so minimal as to be safely ignored unless it gets out of grade.
 
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