euro h-4 lights w/projector inserts Like????

[bmwjohn]

Hi: I'm trying to rework a 94 Dakota pickup to significantly improve night vision.I have part of the bezel and buckets to convert the grill, etc. from aero 9004 lights to the small 4x6 sealed beams. The guy I got the parts from had already thrown away the adjusters, springs, and other bezel from a 92 model. He did save the bucket and pigtails. HOWEVER, once I find the parts to make a complete sealed beam conversion (several years base models had them)the plan was to put Cibie or similar 4x6 euro units in, with possibly a relay kit. NOW I notice several E-bay places selling 4x6 JDM H-4 glass headlight kits with PROJECTORS already in the headlight. Several people have suggested that a projector headlamp is the ideal way to use a HID conversion w/out glare to oncoming drivers. Anyone have experience with these units, either w/h-4 or HID units? Once I can find the entire sealed beam conversion, the Cibie lights will be about $100 a pair, the JDM W/projectors are $30 w/ glass lens, and the HID kit w/relay harness less than $70, making the whole kit $100 - same as Cibie. Again, goal is significantly better night vision. I'm also thinking about a new non tinted windshield and a set of LARGE Marchal fog lights.BIG QUESTION: anybody used the projector conversions w/ or w/out HID kits? Comments?

 

[Johnny248]

Forget those projectors. they are [censored]. They are not really projectors. There is just a floating lense in the middle of the housing. The light beam pattern is the worst ever. Get your self a pair of GOOD E-Code sealed beams. I've used several of these over the years. Back in the day, the Hella and Cibie. You def want to make sure you get E-codes, and just not regular Hella H4 conversions... Check out Danielsternlighting.com for a lot of good info.

 

[5sfe91]

Ebay 4x6 H4 are horrible most have the reflector and the "projector" which just does not work.

 

[sciphi]

Read this thread on an acquaintance who retrofitted true HID projectors into a 4x6 sealed beam: http://pontiacbonnevilleclub.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=14880&start=80 Page 5 is where the retrofit starts. He had E-Code sealed beams before, and just wanted more light.

 

[Klutch9]

DO NOT buy those "JDM" projectors. As has already been stated, those projectors (well, if you wanna call them that) are awful, barely suitable for halogen bulbs. They will fail horribly with HID bulbs. What you really want are E-code headlamps. I'd recommend going to Daniel Stern's website and reading about them; he has some great information, and he also gives a short list of some of the good brands to trust, and some of the not-so-good brands to stay away from. He also gives instructions on how to properly aim them as well, and explains in detail how they are superior to DOT spec headlamp units. Also, consider upgrading your factory headlight harness to a switched relay setup with heavy-gauge wiring. This is also covered on Mr. Stern's website, and is very straightforward and informative. I wish my car was more suitable for an E-code conversion; that'd be my route for sure.

 

[Hokiefyd]

Plus, if they really are "JDM" (and they probably aren't, as that acronym is heavily misused), the upsweep in the beam will be to the left, which is in the face of oncoming traffic. "JDM" means Japanese Domestic Market, and companies use that as it has cache with the ricer world. They see "JDM" with googley-eyes and think that it's necessarily superior to anything else. That is the case with some things (JDM engines often have a higher level of tune for example), but JDM headlamps are, by definition, dangerous to use in the United States because of the direction of travel on our roadways. I say the acronym is often misused because many lamps that sold as "JDM" lamps are not truly "JDM" lamps with a left-hand upsweep. They often do have poor beam patterns, but don't necessarily have the incorrect beam pattern. Bottom line: stay away from anything marketed as "JDM".

 

[Klutch9]

Originally Posted By: Hokiefyd

Plus, if they really are "JDM" (and they probably aren't, as that acronym is heavily misused), the upsweep in the beam will be to the left, which is in the face of oncoming traffic. You definitely don't want that.

Good point. You'll want to make sure that any headlamps you buy are VOR (visual optical right), meaning that the upsweep is to the right. However, this may be a term applied only to DOT spec'd headlamps, as I have seen E-codes that are techinically VOR, but do not have that stamped or printed anywhere on the headlamp itself. Can anyone enlighten me on this?

 

[Hokiefyd]

Originally Posted By: Klutch9

Good point. You'll want to make sure that any headlamps you buy are VOR (visual optical right), meaning that the upsweep is to the right. However, this may be a term applied only to DOT spec'd headlamps, as I have seen E-codes that are techinically VOR, but do not have that stamped or printed anywhere on the headlamp itself. Can anyone enlighten me on this?

The VOR and VOL designation is for US DOT lamps only. All ECE (E-code) lamps are visually aimable. The R vs. L doesn't mean that the upsweep is to the left or right. It just tells the operator which side of the beam pattern should be aligned to the reference plane. Here is a great website which shows the differences in what the different designations mean, and how they are to be aimed: US DOT website Edit: assuming the direction of travel is on the right side of the road (such as in Germany), most E-code lamps would be VOL, if they were to be given a US DOT visual aiming designation.

 

[Klutch9]

Thanks for that link. I was misinformed.

 

[Hokiefyd]

You're welcome. It happens to me all the time (being misinformed)!