EPS light on 1-2 times a week

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May 30, 2021
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I have a used 2006 Daihatsu Sirion 1000cc and starting from this month the Electric Power Steering light comes on accompanied by a series of clicking noises 1-2 times a week. When I turn the ignition to ON all checks come out fine, EPS light turns on only when i crank the engine is the EPS module starved of power when I start the car ?

I have an LAUNCH Creader 3001 OBDII scanner and it shows no codes when the light is on ( maybe it can't read the code )

When the EPS light comes on in order to make it functional again i have to turn the steering wheel while turning the car on, then it works reliably.

Also tested my battery with the Topdon ArtiBattery101 tester and its 98% charged 100% healthy and the battery its self is 400CCA which is more than then car needs.

Is there anything simple I can do on my own, what do you think the issue is ? where is the motor located ? inside the dash ? How much does it cost to be repaired professionally ?



Thank you
 
Some EPS systems route their power directly to the positive battery terminal. As @RooflessVW suggested, check connections.

If it's a problem with the integrated circuitry on the EPS assembly, hopefully you can find a replacement.

They can be hard to come by for some makes/models.
 
Thank you for the replies I guess I will have to do some digging to find where the EPS wiring, computer and motor is
 
Update :

I went to 3 mechanics they all scanned the car with the OBDII but they found nothing worng with the car no error code.
What now ?
 
Check grounds and battery connections, my tractor had a bad positive battery lead, looked OK on the outside but once I cut into the wire insulation it was clear some kind of corrosion had changed a lot of it to copper oxides...
Anyway the cable had no trouble providing current for the glow plugs and starter solenoid, but once the starter drew full current the voltage would drop enough that the starter solenoid would switch off sometimes, disengaging the starter and if you held the key it would chatter in and out....
Took me a while to figure it out.
Put a simple volt meter on the leads to the power steering and watch what it does when you start the car.
 
Check grounds and battery connections, my tractor had a bad positive battery lead, looked OK on the outside but once I cut into the wire insulation it was clear some kind of corrosion had changed a lot of it to copper oxides...
Anyway the cable had no trouble providing current for the glow plugs and starter solenoid, but once the starter drew full current the voltage would drop enough that the starter solenoid would switch off sometimes, disengaging the starter and if you held the key it would chatter in and out....
Took me a while to figure it out.
Put a simple volt meter on the leads to the power steering and watch what it does when you start the car.
I tested my battery with the Topdon ArtiBattery101 tester and its 98% charged 100% healthy and the battery itself is 400CCA which is more than then car needs also the Topdon tests the alternator and everything looks fine. Should I do it again and post photos of the Topdon screen ?
 
I tested my battery with the Topdon ArtiBattery101 tester and its 98% charged 100% healthy and the battery itself is 400CCA which is more than then car needs also the Topdon tests the alternator and everything looks fine. Should I do it again and post photos of the Topdon screen ?
Sometimes the actual wiring can't carry the current needed during starting. Normal running and charging the battery is a small fraction of the starters current draw when turning over the engine. Test your voltage in the car while you are cracking it over, I would pull the spark plug wires to give you more time if you need to see what's going on.
 
Sometimes the actual wiring can't carry the current needed during starting. Normal running and charging the battery is a small fraction of the starters current draw when turning over the engine. Test your voltage in the car while you are cracking it over, I would pull the spark plug wires to give you more time if you need to see what's going on.
Topdon ArtiBattery101 does exactly the test you suggested and according to it the voltage drop is fine and within operating parameters. Would an actual number help ? I can find out the actual number
 
Topdon ArtiBattery101 does exactly the test you suggested and according to it the voltage drop is fine and within operating parameters. Would an actual number help ? I can find out the actual number
I'm getting out of my depth here, but the tester is looking at the battery voltage when starting? With a bad lead on the battery, the battery will always be fine, but the voltage the rest of the car sees is too low. I would look for that, and if its good, and then I'm out of ideas for you, I am a part swapper, not a diagnostics guy!
My next idea is just to unplug the power steering and drive it... but I'm out in the country so I parallel park about once a month!
 
Hi,



I downloaded the service manual for the car and just bridged a few seconds ago the 2 terminals as shown below:





And what it did was make the EPS light flash but the steering was operational, I don't know what that means
 
1659114422491.png
 
Cool looking little car.
Yeap and it had many versions including one with the Daihatsi Terios 1.5cc engine, another version with a 1.3cc engine and 4x4 ( don't ask me why lol ) and the 1000cc version that I have. Mine goes up to 160km the 1.5cc version would have been a pocket rocket.

Also the car is exactly the same as Toyota Passo
 
Yeap and it had many versions including one with the Daihatsi Terios 1.5cc engine, another version with a 1.3cc engine and 4x4 ( don't ask me why lol ) and the 1000cc version that I have. Mine goes up to 160km the 1.5cc version would have been a pocket rocket.

Also the car is exactly the same as Toyota Passo
A 100 MPH in that little car!
Thats impressive and frighting at the same time.
 
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