Car sometimes does not unlock from fob and does not start

biomecanoid

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May 30, 2021
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I should have been a dentist.
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biomecanoid

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May 30, 2021
Messages
112
Update:

Cleaned the battery terminals, connectors and ground points on the car with sand paper on the Dremel and issues seems to be gone for now.

To be 100% sure this will never happen again I crimped and installed another ground cable the one on top with the heat shrink, I would install heat shrink on the other wires as well but I run out.
 

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I know that I am kind of late here, but I was thinking that the OP had multiple issues. A voltmeter installed in the car (even if just plugged into the lighter outlet) and checking the voltage on the FOB battery are additional things to do if not already done.
 

biomecanoid

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Joined
May 30, 2021
Messages
112
I know that I am kind of late here, but I was thinking that the OP had multiple issues. A voltmeter installed in the car (even if just plugged into the lighter outlet) and checking the voltage on the FOB battery are additional things to do if not already done.
The FOB is fine and I do have a multimeter and a Tester for the battery and alternator. The diagnosis so far is poor battery connection. Cleaned everything, battery, connectors, grounds and issue seems to have disappeared.

On top of the above I also installed an extra ground wire.
 
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Thanks

For the time being I cleaned the battery poles and clamp connectors with a bit of sandpaper.

Is there another way to test the battery and alternator instead clamping the tester directly to the battery ? Can I use the tested connected to the positive side of the battery and then the negative somewhere on the chassis in an attempt for the tester to register the voltage drop or resistance ?

If so where should I connect the negative clamp of the tester ?
Take it to AAP, they will test and do parasitic drain, you could have corrosion inside the plastic wire covering
 
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