My car has started to vibrate when in (P)arking, (R)everse, and (N)eutral mode. While stationary, I switched gear between P,N,or R, the car would vibrate. Sometimes when switched to R from P, I would get a clunk noise. If I switched gear to (D)rive or (2) or (1), the vibration stops. Motor mount or transmission?
Engine vibration
- Thread starter nZone
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Hopefully it's the mounts, but the transmissions on those were kinda weak, so honestly that would be my first guess. There were at least till 2015 active Honda service campaigns on older Odyssey's for the automatic transmissions, not sure on what the rules/restrictions are now though.
Originally Posted by GZRider
Hopefully it's the mounts, but the transmissions on those were kinda weak, so honestly that would be my first guess. There were at least till 2015 active Honda service campaigns on older Odyssey's for the automatic transmissions, not sure on what the rules/restrictions are now though.
I've just spent $2500 depaxing two weeks ago. I wish I got this problem sooner. Now here is the dilemma. I don't want to spend $3000-ish to replace the motor mounts to find out that it is the transmission problem. This car only has 79,000 miles. I like to keep it, but also I don't want to spend $10,000 to keep it either.
Hopefully it's the mounts, but the transmissions on those were kinda weak, so honestly that would be my first guess. There were at least till 2015 active Honda service campaigns on older Odyssey's for the automatic transmissions, not sure on what the rules/restrictions are now though.
I've just spent $2500 depaxing two weeks ago. I wish I got this problem sooner. Now here is the dilemma. I don't want to spend $3000-ish to replace the motor mounts to find out that it is the transmission problem. This car only has 79,000 miles. I like to keep it, but also I don't want to spend $10,000 to keep it either.
Originally Posted by supton
Originally Posted by nZone
2006 Honda Odyssey Touring. This car has VCM and the car has Active Control Mount (ACM). It's been known that VCM caused mounts to wear out.
Ah. Bummer. How many miles? How far is it from needing a TB?
Low mileage, 79K miles. Last timing belt changed was at 7yrs age, 2020 (14 yrs) will be the next timing belt change.
Originally Posted by nZone
2006 Honda Odyssey Touring. This car has VCM and the car has Active Control Mount (ACM). It's been known that VCM caused mounts to wear out.
Ah. Bummer. How many miles? How far is it from needing a TB?
Low mileage, 79K miles. Last timing belt changed was at 7yrs age, 2020 (14 yrs) will be the next timing belt change.
Ok, only asking as I am wondering if this isn't a good time to jump ship and let it be someone else's problem. TB + engine mount + any other issues that could be lurking. OR you get this fixed, eyes wide open, knowing that next year is the TB, and then whatever other repair may pop up.
Its cheaper to keep her!
Sunk costs are just that. Best to evaluate future costs and make decisions based on that.
Sunk costs are just that. Best to evaluate future costs and make decisions based on that.
I'm sorry to hear that, I still cannot believe Honda who generally builds gracefully ageing vehicles sold their Van with that stupid run-flat system which belongs on a tarted up S class convert or 7 series,limo. Those kind of systems belong on cars that the original owners will be dumping for a new one in 3-4 years, not a family hauler expected to serve a economically for a decade+. Supton makes a good point that it may be time to consider getting out of that for something else, you are getting underwater on the value of that quickly. For example if you put motor mounts ($1800) and a trans ($3500-5,000) in addition to the $2500 you spent depaxing and the car gets totaled at a later date the insurance company will only cut you a check for the value of the car at about $8-11k TOTAL. You then loose the $6500-10,000+ spent on the depax+trans+motor mounts, which would be bad. I'd lean toward selling it for a similar year mechanic inspected lower mile RX330 or Toyota Sienna. You should be able to get into it for your car plus $3k or so and both of those AISIN's were pretty strong gearbox's. Motor mounts are expensive still on those but closer to $1200, no silicone filled ones on that gen I believe but I could be wrong on that bit.
Originally Posted by supton
Ok, only asking as I am wondering if this isn't a good time to jump ship and let it be someone else's problem. TB + engine mount + any other issues that could be lurking. OR you get this fixed, eyes wide open, knowing that next year is the TB, and then whatever other repair may pop up.
My wife said trade it in. I said I don't want car payment since the car drives great. This Spring, I replaced all shock absorbers and stabilizer link and sway bar boots ($1000-ish DIY). Two weeks ago ($2500) depaxed.
Future: TB ($900-ish), engine mounts ($3000-ish) + transmission? (can't afford) + front lower arm ($750 DIY), 3rd Catalytic converter ($800-ish), catalytic heat shields (at least $500). Hmmm...add up fast. Jump ship seems more logical now...
Ok, only asking as I am wondering if this isn't a good time to jump ship and let it be someone else's problem. TB + engine mount + any other issues that could be lurking. OR you get this fixed, eyes wide open, knowing that next year is the TB, and then whatever other repair may pop up.
My wife said trade it in. I said I don't want car payment since the car drives great. This Spring, I replaced all shock absorbers and stabilizer link and sway bar boots ($1000-ish DIY). Two weeks ago ($2500) depaxed.
Future: TB ($900-ish), engine mounts ($3000-ish) + transmission? (can't afford) + front lower arm ($750 DIY), 3rd Catalytic converter ($800-ish), catalytic heat shields (at least $500). Hmmm...add up fast. Jump ship seems more logical now...
How so? The OP would pay similar insurance on a 1-2 year newer and more reliable Toyota Sienna Van with low miles which they could get into for their car plus $3-4k, These problems are pretty unheard of on a 80,000 mile Sienna, the downside is they are kinda ugly and under-powered vehicles but they are reliable and cheap to maintain, especially the 4 cyl. And as no one wants vans these days they are also CHEAP second hand in good shape.
Sunk cost fallacy
https://www.behavioraleconomics.com/resources/mini-encyclopedia-of-be/sunk-cost-fallacy/
That said certain seedier sectors of the automotive industry do need customers like you to survive, so I'm sure they appreciate you(r) money!
https://www.behavioraleconomics.com/resources/mini-encyclopedia-of-be/sunk-cost-fallacy/
That said certain seedier sectors of the automotive industry do need customers like you to survive, so I'm sure they appreciate you(r) money!
Originally Posted by nZone
Originally Posted by supton
Ok, only asking as I am wondering if this isn't a good time to jump ship and let it be someone else's problem. TB + engine mount + any other issues that could be lurking. OR you get this fixed, eyes wide open, knowing that next year is the TB, and then whatever other repair may pop up.
My wife said trade it in. I said I don't want car payment since the car drives great. This Spring, I replaced all shock absorbers and stabilizer link and sway bar boots ($1000-ish DIY). Two weeks ago ($2500) depaxed.
Future: TB ($900-ish), engine mounts ($3000-ish) + transmission? (can't afford) + front lower arm ($750 DIY), 3rd Catalytic converter ($800-ish), catalytic heat shields (at least $500). Hmmm...add up fast. Jump ship seems more logical now...
Yep, that's why I had to ask it. At some point you have to determine how committed you are to keeping. Sometimes it makes sense, sometimes it doesn't.
Originally Posted by supton
Ok, only asking as I am wondering if this isn't a good time to jump ship and let it be someone else's problem. TB + engine mount + any other issues that could be lurking. OR you get this fixed, eyes wide open, knowing that next year is the TB, and then whatever other repair may pop up.
My wife said trade it in. I said I don't want car payment since the car drives great. This Spring, I replaced all shock absorbers and stabilizer link and sway bar boots ($1000-ish DIY). Two weeks ago ($2500) depaxed.
Future: TB ($900-ish), engine mounts ($3000-ish) + transmission? (can't afford) + front lower arm ($750 DIY), 3rd Catalytic converter ($800-ish), catalytic heat shields (at least $500). Hmmm...add up fast. Jump ship seems more logical now...
Yep, that's why I had to ask it. At some point you have to determine how committed you are to keeping. Sometimes it makes sense, sometimes it doesn't.
Originally Posted by GZRider
Sunk cost fallacy
https://www.behavioraleconomics.com/resources/mini-encyclopedia-of-be/sunk-cost-fallacy/
That said certain seedier sectors of the automotive industry do need customers like you to survive, so I'm sure they appreciate you(r) money!
I concur.
Sunk cost fallacy
https://www.behavioraleconomics.com/resources/mini-encyclopedia-of-be/sunk-cost-fallacy/
That said certain seedier sectors of the automotive industry do need customers like you to survive, so I'm sure they appreciate you(r) money!
I concur.
Originally Posted by GZRider
Hopefully it's the mounts, but the transmissions on those were kinda weak, so honestly that would be my first guess. There were at least till 2015 active Honda service campaigns on older Odyssey's for the automatic transmissions, not sure on what the rules/restrictions are now though.
Failure rates on transmissions were OK by 2004.5 and later. Pre-2004 are very bad.
Hopefully it's the mounts, but the transmissions on those were kinda weak, so honestly that would be my first guess. There were at least till 2015 active Honda service campaigns on older Odyssey's for the automatic transmissions, not sure on what the rules/restrictions are now though.
Failure rates on transmissions were OK by 2004.5 and later. Pre-2004 are very bad.
Originally Posted by nZone
2006 Honda Odyssey Touring. This car has VCM and the car has Active Control Mount (ACM). It's been known that VCM caused mounts to wear out.
Install a device to deactivate the VCM and you can replace the mounts with the cheaper, non-active EX/LX mounts. You will need a new bracket on the rear mount at least, though.
2006 Honda Odyssey Touring. This car has VCM and the car has Active Control Mount (ACM). It's been known that VCM caused mounts to wear out.
Install a device to deactivate the VCM and you can replace the mounts with the cheaper, non-active EX/LX mounts. You will need a new bracket on the rear mount at least, though.
Originally Posted by nZone
2006 Honda Odyssey Touring. This car has VCM and the car has Active Control Mount (ACM). It's been known that VCM caused mounts to wear out.
If you hadn't posted this ^^^, I was going to say, "sounds like a HONDA"!
I love Honda's but Man, I've certainly had my share of vibrations with them.
2006 Honda Odyssey Touring. This car has VCM and the car has Active Control Mount (ACM). It's been known that VCM caused mounts to wear out.
If you hadn't posted this ^^^, I was going to say, "sounds like a HONDA"!
I love Honda's but Man, I've certainly had my share of vibrations with them.
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Good call, but skip the dealer they will automatically inflate the repair costs and try to get you to trade it for cheap, it's just the business. Take it to an independent place that does a lot of Honda/Acura stuff. Preferably one with good word of mouth recommendations from people who drive 7+ year old cars that are in decent to nice condition.
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