I may be wrong, but it seems like an engine/transmission has to be lined up for it to work at all. One thing may be that all the mounts were shot and I replaced them periodically while driving in between replacements and the engine shifted while supported by mounts with varying stiffness/dimensions.
Engine vibration after rebuild
- Thread starter Jonas
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I’m not buying the 2 degrees thing. Especially not if all the bolts lines up. theres not a lot here that can go wrong assuming it was set in place correctly. One could loosen all the mounts, jack the transaxle up from beneath just enough to see it “float,” then ease it back down and tighten the mounts. The only other thing would be to inspect the subframe, perhaps with a measuring tape, to see if it’s reasonably aligned. Beyond that, if it’s a vibration coming and going with the AC, check the iacv, make sure idle rpm is ok, and drive it for a while. $800 is a lot of cake.
The engine rocks or moves a lot front to back when power braking, but that would be due mainly to the front/rear mounts I think. The torque mount on top supports the entire wight of the engine on the passenger side, but doesn't really wear out. Rather, it fails shortly after the weight of the engine is let down on it. Idle seems normal, RPM wise. The car has an electronic throttle body, so no iacv. The vibration is always there in a very specific RPM band of about 750 to 1100, so I don't think the AC is necessarilly causing it. The first time I replaced the torque mount, the car was perfectly smooth for about an hour or so before it failed.
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Usually oem mounts are the way to go. Backing up to posts 43 and 44. Same person that recommended aftermarket mounts is saying the engine is off by 2 degrees? If so I kind of discount what he says.
Top mount was the culprit in one we did a few months ago. Replaced that and NVH was great.
Different mechanic, but he could still be wrong about the alignment. He did say it wasn't much, but it's pulling on the torque mount. But, again, it's currently obviously crooked while I was able to get it pretty well lined up when I installed it.
No, it sits pretty much still at idle, but I would think the engine movement front to back would pull on it some, maybe too much.
I could be mistaken but I think previously you mentioned being in Chicago. If so that's where Car Care Nut on YT is located. He could probably figure it out being a Toyota master diag tech at a dealership.
My best guess is that I
I wish. I love that guy. I'm unfortunately in Kentucky.
My best guess is since the front and rear mounts take the brunt of the engine rotation, and I've never had them replaced at the same time, one is always weaker than the other and the engine is moving front to back too much. I heard from a Toyota tech that they (especially the rear mount) will fail quickly if not replaced as a pair.
Kinda hard to see, but if you compare the gray part with the bolts to the black bracket above, it does look a little crooked. Like, (facing the engine) the left side of the engine is a little closer to the firewall. When I installed one, I was able to get it less crooked, but the left bolt was higher (in the picture) and the right bolt was lower and hanging over the edge more. Odd.
I would be willing to bet it has to do with someones poor rebuild than mounts. If you hav replaced the mounts and it still shakes, its not the mounts.
Hate to say it but your going to have to pull the engine and take it apart. Or live with it...
Hate to say it but your going to have to pull the engine and take it apart. Or live with it...
Poor rebuild in what way?
Who knows exactly. You don't know until someone takes it apart and figure out what is wrong. Probably balance shafts. Crank not balanced. Could be a lot of things that can make an engine vibrate. Something isn't balanced or not weighted correctly.
Do a simple engine compression test. Maybe you got a dead cylinder at low rpm. Not even/balanced power.
Guessing over the internet is tough
I appreciate your guesses. The strange thing is that mount can't seem to support the weight of the engine. Like, nothing is making it fail other than gravity. One failed immediately before I started the car and the other two slowly failed at a rate that you could monitor the engine gradually getting lower on that side within minutes.
*angry update* pretty sure I got ripped off. The bill was $338 and the labor for one of the mounts was 2.8 hours. I asked why it was so expensive for the one Mount and he said we had three people working on it because they thought I was in a hurry which I wasn't. They never quoted me any prices either but the quote I got a few weeks ago when I got the diagnosis was much lower. He said the engine was out of alignment but asked if I wanted the rear mount replaced anyway free of charge. I said sure go ahead. About an hour and a half later they called and said my car was ready. I looked at the Front Bottom Mount they replaced and it did not need replacing it was perfectly fine. Also I saw the new rear mount I bought sitting in my backseat. So unless he installed it removed it and then installed the old Mount again he never replaced it. This was all because of an incorrect diagnosis in the first place. My car is no better or worse than before, what do you think I should do?
Ok, so I'm pretty sure he did replace the rear mount. The one in my seat is scuffed and dirty, but in excellent condition, so it clearly didn't need replacing either. Also, the price may have been what I was quoted for the front mount. I remember one of them was more expensive than the others, but I assumed it was the rear mount since it just looks harder to replace. My BIL replaced it and the transmission mount himself in under an hour, so maybe that front mount is trickier than it looks. They did all the work they charged me for, but I'm still mad that it wasn't necessary even though they told me it was.
Are all these replacements OEM mounts?
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