Try running 5W-20 Viscosity like the Ford Engineers recommend! The VTC's in this 3 valve motor demand it!....
Engine Runs Smoother on Dino
- Thread starter Odysseus2010
- Start date
- Status
Originally Posted By: Odysseus2010
Zaedock - we are from Worcester so I feel your pain regarding the winter oil changes. In Charlotte the coldest crank I had was 18F and my garage walls are finished and two walls abut heated space so the ambient garqage temp is usually 25 degfees warmer than outside. Of course trying to change your oil when it is 98F and 72 degree dew point is not much more pleasant.... I cranked over once outside after work when the thermometer on the truck read an ambient on-pavement temp of 117F. We have been here 5 years - I now say "y'all."
No kidding? I work in Worcester, right off Shrewsbury Street and Rt 9. Small world! Ironically, I just had a friend move to NC. He bought a Matco Tool franchise.
When the final kid (bratLOL)is in college, my wife and I plan to live just about everywhere. First stop will be Minnesota, but NC is on our list.
I hear you on changing oil in 100*F heat. I don't know what is worse. That's why I change oil in Spring and Fall. OLM or 6 month changes can't be beat. Modern oils are so good, 6-7K on dino in summer is fine.
Zaedock - we are from Worcester so I feel your pain regarding the winter oil changes. In Charlotte the coldest crank I had was 18F and my garage walls are finished and two walls abut heated space so the ambient garqage temp is usually 25 degfees warmer than outside. Of course trying to change your oil when it is 98F and 72 degree dew point is not much more pleasant.... I cranked over once outside after work when the thermometer on the truck read an ambient on-pavement temp of 117F. We have been here 5 years - I now say "y'all."
No kidding? I work in Worcester, right off Shrewsbury Street and Rt 9. Small world! Ironically, I just had a friend move to NC. He bought a Matco Tool franchise.
When the final kid (bratLOL)is in college, my wife and I plan to live just about everywhere. First stop will be Minnesota, but NC is on our list.
I hear you on changing oil in 100*F heat. I don't know what is worse. That's why I change oil in Spring and Fall. OLM or 6 month changes can't be beat. Modern oils are so good, 6-7K on dino in summer is fine.
Originally Posted By: RISUPERCREWMAN
Try running 5W-20 Viscosity like the Ford Engineers recommend! The VTC's in this 3 valve motor demand it!....
Demand? That's a pretty strong word. This is a subject that has been beaten in other threads, but let me just say that running a 30 wt in his engine is fine. in fact, it's spec'd for 30wt in other countries.
Besides, IIRC, the thermostat on the 3V motors are 180*F, so in effect, they're already turning 30 wt oil.
Try running 5W-20 Viscosity like the Ford Engineers recommend! The VTC's in this 3 valve motor demand it!....
Demand? That's a pretty strong word. This is a subject that has been beaten in other threads, but let me just say that running a 30 wt in his engine is fine. in fact, it's spec'd for 30wt in other countries.
Besides, IIRC, the thermostat on the 3V motors are 180*F, so in effect, they're already turning 30 wt oil.
Had a brand new VW in 1967, ran 30 wgt year around in Tennessee and it did fine, even on those 20 degree or lower, what can I say and that was ancient oil compared to what we get today, it did fine.
Originally Posted By: Zaedock
Originally Posted By: Odysseus2010
Zaedock - we are from Worcester so I feel your pain regarding the winter oil changes. In Charlotte the coldest crank I had was 18F and my garage walls are finished and two walls abut heated space so the ambient garqage temp is usually 25 degfees warmer than outside. Of course trying to change your oil when it is 98F and 72 degree dew point is not much more pleasant.... I cranked over once outside after work when the thermometer on the truck read an ambient on-pavement temp of 117F. We have been here 5 years - I now say "y'all."
I lived over on the west side but had an apartment for awhile at Princeton Place on. Dude - MN - no way. Come to Charlotte. We sold my [censored] 1100 sq. foot house for 3100 sq. feet on a golf course. And pocketed money. We don't even own a snow shovel.
No kidding? I work in Worcester, right off Shrewsbury Street and Rt 9. Small world! Ironically, I just had a friend move to NC. He bought a Matco Tool franchise.
When the final kid (bratLOL)is in college, my wife and I plan to live just about everywhere. First stop will be Minnesota, but NC is on our list.
I hear you on changing oil in 100*F heat. I don't know what is worse. That's why I change oil in Spring and Fall. OLM or 6 month changes can't be beat. Modern oils are so good, 6-7K on dino in summer is fine.
Originally Posted By: Odysseus2010
Zaedock - we are from Worcester so I feel your pain regarding the winter oil changes. In Charlotte the coldest crank I had was 18F and my garage walls are finished and two walls abut heated space so the ambient garqage temp is usually 25 degfees warmer than outside. Of course trying to change your oil when it is 98F and 72 degree dew point is not much more pleasant.... I cranked over once outside after work when the thermometer on the truck read an ambient on-pavement temp of 117F. We have been here 5 years - I now say "y'all."
I lived over on the west side but had an apartment for awhile at Princeton Place on. Dude - MN - no way. Come to Charlotte. We sold my [censored] 1100 sq. foot house for 3100 sq. feet on a golf course. And pocketed money. We don't even own a snow shovel.
No kidding? I work in Worcester, right off Shrewsbury Street and Rt 9. Small world! Ironically, I just had a friend move to NC. He bought a Matco Tool franchise.
When the final kid (bratLOL)is in college, my wife and I plan to live just about everywhere. First stop will be Minnesota, but NC is on our list.
I hear you on changing oil in 100*F heat. I don't know what is worse. That's why I change oil in Spring and Fall. OLM or 6 month changes can't be beat. Modern oils are so good, 6-7K on dino in summer is fine.
I just changed from PP to VWB and notice the engine is smoother and the stumbling I had from 2500-3000 rpms is lessened.
Also, that mysterious rattling from under the hood is about gone. In one of my older cars it was an exhaust shield that was rattling and this sounded just like that. So maybe the engine IS smoother causing it to rattle less.
Go figure, the only oil I paid full price for is the best so far.
Also, that mysterious rattling from under the hood is about gone. In one of my older cars it was an exhaust shield that was rattling and this sounded just like that. So maybe the engine IS smoother causing it to rattle less.
Go figure, the only oil I paid full price for is the best so far.
This is interesting as I may have a similar situation. I have used MC 5W20 for 70K miles in my '06 F150 with the 5.4L engine. The engine has always started and ran quietly with this oil and a MC fl820s filter. A couple changes ago, I switched to Valvoline Supersyn 5W20 because I saw some light varnish on my dipstick and wondered if I needed something with better cleaning and/or heat stability. I noticed pretty quickly with the valvoline syn 5W20 that I got an engine rattle on start up. After that it ran quietly again. I thought maybe that particular MC fl820s filter had a bad drain back valve causing the start up rattle. I changed oil after 5K miles and installed a new MC fl820s filter and more valvoline syn 5W20. It still has the start up rattle. I'm almost sure it didn't have this noise on the MC 5W20, but I'd have to put it back in to verify. Jon
Originally Posted By: CourierDriver
this situation has come up many times in here and i for one have never had unusual engine sounds like clicking, crunching, or what have u. I use Mobil one 10w30 and whether its 0 degrees or 90, my old 318 still sounds the same. But I'm not doubting you at all, machinery can be weird sometimes and it can react to different environments and lubes.
+1
this situation has come up many times in here and i for one have never had unusual engine sounds like clicking, crunching, or what have u. I use Mobil one 10w30 and whether its 0 degrees or 90, my old 318 still sounds the same. But I'm not doubting you at all, machinery can be weird sometimes and it can react to different environments and lubes.
+1
- Joined
- Sep 28, 2002
- Messages
- 39,799
Quote:
This is interesting: cannot resolve small motions adequately.
I am wondering if that refers to the oil being able to dampen small vibrations/harmonics occuring naturally in a motor.
Probably. It's obvious that there's no deficiency from a lubrication standpoint.
There was some authoritative discussion a while back on acoustic properties of different base stocks. This would account for identical viscosity fluids offering different tonal qualities. I've never experienced it myself, but most of my engines have been either older or inherently noisy as a design condition. My jeep engines, I suspect, never ever had some memo on the design engineer's desk asking to reduce the noise level of the engine. Today??... I'm very sure there are dedicated teams to manage these issues. They're driven by the same mobs that formerly DEMANDED velvety smooth shifts that held guns to the heads of transmission engineers forcing them to complicate the mechanisms.
"See what you made me do"?
This is interesting: cannot resolve small motions adequately.
I am wondering if that refers to the oil being able to dampen small vibrations/harmonics occuring naturally in a motor.
Probably. It's obvious that there's no deficiency from a lubrication standpoint.
There was some authoritative discussion a while back on acoustic properties of different base stocks. This would account for identical viscosity fluids offering different tonal qualities. I've never experienced it myself, but most of my engines have been either older or inherently noisy as a design condition. My jeep engines, I suspect, never ever had some memo on the design engineer's desk asking to reduce the noise level of the engine. Today??... I'm very sure there are dedicated teams to manage these issues. They're driven by the same mobs that formerly DEMANDED velvety smooth shifts that held guns to the heads of transmission engineers forcing them to complicate the mechanisms.
"See what you made me do"?
All makes sense to me. Perhaps there is a marketing angle - Makes Your Engine Run Quieter. Our velvety smooth acoustic proerties mean a pleasing tonal experience.
My 06 Ford Freestyle 3.0 doesn't like PP 5w-20 and burns and 1/2 quart every 6500 miles. It's quieter with Motorcraft syn blend 5w-20 burns and no oil at 6500 miles. BTW I tried PP 4 times in this car and had the exact same results.
Interesting. I used PP and never had to add any until maybe 3k or 4k into the change, and then only a little. I have top up more often on PYB.
- Joined
- Sep 28, 2002
- Messages
- 39,799
Yeah, that is odd.
Gary if there is any difference in these oils "tonal" qualities even between synthetic, and conventional it could it just as well be the additive package causing any difference in "tonal" quality, or variance ?
Now with the above out of the way, and just say that instead of the many times we jump out to compare our tonal qualities to others tonal qualities (LOL) what characteristics of oil could in fact give a difference in the way an engine sounds. On start up after a significant amount of time with the engine off (while your asleep etc). It would be nice to understand, or at least discuss the differences in these oils that may be causing these tonal differences ( I didn't even use "" on tonal).
I have no idea what could be the variable myself, however there are some people here who are really educated on oil properties, and the way they are made, and what from. Could the better flow characteristics we desire so much from the synthetics cause this tonal difference ?
Now with the above out of the way, and just say that instead of the many times we jump out to compare our tonal qualities to others tonal qualities (LOL) what characteristics of oil could in fact give a difference in the way an engine sounds. On start up after a significant amount of time with the engine off (while your asleep etc). It would be nice to understand, or at least discuss the differences in these oils that may be causing these tonal differences ( I didn't even use "" on tonal).
I have no idea what could be the variable myself, however there are some people here who are really educated on oil properties, and the way they are made, and what from. Could the better flow characteristics we desire so much from the synthetics cause this tonal difference ?
Last edited:
Molecule size?
my guess: Polarity. Group III and IV basestocks have been stripped of it. Highly polar oils actually do put a 'velvet like' coating on the parts. Noise doesnt bother me until it become sharp and non-harmonic in nature - then you are assured the engine is wearing a a much higher rate than typical. It's up to the lube formulator/chemist to add back solvency and polarity in the blend %. I bet its even more complicated than Blending a good blended Scotch Whiskey ... then again, maybe not.
I find those how polarity oils how?
Any more of this dino-is-smooth talk and I might just give up on syn permanently 
In fact, I brought back a bunch of PP I bought on sale, since it was an illogical thing to buy in the first place when I still had 5 jugs of the stuff in the basement.
Might be time to try PYB in that boxer engine of mine
In fact, I brought back a bunch of PP I bought on sale, since it was an illogical thing to buy in the first place when I still had 5 jugs of the stuff in the basement.
Might be time to try PYB in that boxer engine of mine
Originally Posted By: Odysseus2010
No - they would never hear it. I could set off a ton of C4 there and they would never hear it. I don't waste my time.
if they cant hear it, the problem is between their ears and mouth.
No - they would never hear it. I could set off a ton of C4 there and they would never hear it. I don't waste my time.
if they cant hear it, the problem is between their ears and mouth.
- Status
Similar threads
