Engine overhaul

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Picked up a '97 Grand Marquis LS with the Handling Package, and only 156,000 km (97,500 miles) on it, for next to nothing. Previous (original) owner ran it without oil, after the genius doing the oil change didn't tighten the oil filter properly, and all the oil drained over time. So the engine needs to be rebuilt.

I can go with a junk yard engine, but the entire car is all original and I'd rather keep the factory engine (even though it will be rebuilt). Then there's the unknown history that comes with a junk yard engine. Also don't want to go through the whole fiasco of changing the engine number on the registration, etc.

Took the car into a reputable 'specialist' first, and he's telling me I need new timing chains, oil pump, water pump etc.
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But I think there are bigger things to worry about, such as the aluminium cylinder heads. If they are all scored and damaged due to no oil, it may well need to be replaced.

Getting an engine rebuilt is going to be a new experience, and this is partly why I got the car. Got the top end done on my truck, but never had an engine with a junked bottom end. Whilst I suppose this depends on the reason behind the overhaul and varies by individual application, what parts are often replaced when an engine is being rebuilt? Thanks!
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You can swap to a late model engine that has 260 horsepower. Read information on a PI swap on one of the crown victoria sites.

Expect to pay around $1000 for a low mileage unit.
 
The regular Crown Victoria puts out 239 hp with dual exhaust. The 2004+ Police Interceptor, with the Mercury Marauder MAF sensor, air box and zip tube, puts out 250.

The 2001+ engines have the Performance Improved cylinder heads, which are good for an additional 20 hp, and a knock sensor was added in 2003 which boosted that figure up by 4 hp.

If the cylinder heads (currently Non-Performance Improved) are to be replaced, I may go with the Performance Improved heads, along with the intake manifold.
 
Yeah, on the oil starved mods I have seen the cam journals get torn up. The mod is one engine I would not trust any aluminum part afer a lube failure.
 
the good news is, the 4.6 is very plentiful, being all over the junkyards. the bad news is, its cuz they are 4.6 modulars....

if you wanna reaplce the engine, get the ENTIRE powertrain, every single nut bolt and wire. I am of the opinion that most ford dealerships dont have the ability to swap these out and get em running ok, let alone someone else.

'cuz of the modular engines insistence that it must have OHC's and hence very meticulous oil pressure AND flow, it has a lot of bearings all over the place that are wiped out. they wont be cheap
 
What parts to replace in a rebuild? Since the reason for the rebuild is lack of oil I'm sorry to say pretty well ANYTHING that oil would touch.

That incls chains, any bearing, oil pump, cams, rods, pistons, valves and so on.

Personally I'd take a engine known to be running when it arrived at the junk yard then see what needs to be done. It WILL be cheaper and you are starting with something that was not damaged as bad as oil starvation.

JMO... Take care, bill
 
rebuilt 4.6 soup to nuts installed with a 1 year unlimited mileage is under $2400.00 complete...
That is what we charge of course if it needs anything else it would be extra for parts such as radiator, fan,water pump ect.
 
So what's wrong with the engine? Have you run it? Is it seized or did it throw a rod? Typically an engine run out of oil will destroy big end bearings first...depending on when they stopped it,it may just require a crank grind,or another crank and rod.If they managed to keep it going without the rod letting go it may have seized or done in the camshaft as well.

Engine overhaul is usually a crank grind,rebore and new pistons,head job and of course all seals and gaskets,chains or belts,water pump etc.
 
That could be a good project It is hard to judge the condition of damage to the engine untill it is disassembled There could be minor damage or major damage. The hardest part of the job will be finding a competent machine shop that will do the machine work and fitting and assembly procedures correctly . The Grand Marquis and Crown Vics are really nice solid cars.
 
Thanks for the input!
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Seems a junk yard replacement is a more economical choice at $550, although I have been quoted $1,000 by an engine builder using aftermarket parts and $2,050 using Genuine Ford parts. The guy said this includes these at a very basic level:

- Pistons and rings
- All gaskets
- Cam/rod/main bearings
- Wrist pins
- Oil pump
- Timing set

The engine runs and drives, but there's a clunking sound that gets louder as you rev.
 
Originally Posted By: Steve S
That could be a good project It is hard to judge the condition of damage to the engine untill it is disassembled There could be minor damage or major damage. The hardest part of the job will be finding a competent machine shop that will do the machine work and fitting and assembly procedures correctly . The Grand Marquis and Crown Vics are really nice solid cars.


True.
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This is my third vehicle on this platform, quite tough and reliable cars.
 
Originally Posted By: Falcon_LS
The engine runs and drives, but there's a clunking sound that gets louder as you rev.


That's a big end - so a crank grind minimum.If it looks good in the top end,it might just need a re ring and valve job.
 
Originally Posted By: Falcon_LS
Thanks for the input!
thumbsup2.gif
Seems a junk yard replacement is a more economical choice at $550, although I have been quoted $1,000 by an engine builder using aftermarket parts and $2,050 using Genuine Ford parts. The guy said this includes these at a very basic level:

- Pistons and rings
- All gaskets
- Cam/rod/main bearings
- Wrist pins
- Oil pump
- Timing set

The engine runs and drives, but there's a clunking sound that gets louder as you rev.


No cam bearings on modular motors. The cams ride directly on the journals.
 
YupYupYup. If the cams ran out of oil, the heads are pretty much trash.
But if it still runs, it may not be that bad. I would still have the heads inspected before reuse.
Personally, I'd go PI heads/cams/intake, 0.020" over bore the block and some aftermarket hypereutectic pistons of the correct diameter and dish.
Oh, and some Stainless Works long tube headers. Though they are expensive and I cant imagine the shipping charges, lol.
But thats just me.
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on a knock sensor engine you must be VERY carful that ALL the bolts are tite, cause the knock sensor will see a loose bolt as knocking and turn the timming down, and kill the performance
 
I only rebuilt an engine once (71 Cutlass 350) recently. I did it because the car was a keeper and I wanted it all original.

I told myself next time I'd buy a rebuilt engine and just drop it in.
 
If you can find a low mileage motor, that you can preferably hear run first w/a warranty, that would be the best way to go. Rebuilding your old motor is going to cost a TON!
 
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