Engine oil with aftermarket turbocharger

[kaboom10]

The car does not stay in warm-up enrichment for long, guys. I can watch my AFRs and my closed/open loop status real-time. On a cold start these days (high 20s Farenheit to low 30s), I'm in open loop enrichment (~14:1 Air:Fuel) for about 20 seconds.

That's right, 20 seconds. That surprised me a lot. At this point, the heated oxygen sensor is good to go and it performs it's tests (the car runs from full rich to full lean in b>

I'm not sure exactly how Honda does it but I tune my F-150 cold start by changing the cold start table A/F and duration. I changed my injectors also and the tuning program had the new values needed. Do you have a wideband F/A meter and datalogging capability? Have you done any dyno runs to see where you're at. If you aren't fueling about 11:1 at WOT and backing down the spark you could have problems.

 

[WellEnoughAlone]

11:1 is ridiculous rich. I've had tuners look over my datalogs (I've got a wideband) and numerous suggestions have led me to a 12.3-12.5 AFR at full boost. I am retarding spark at ~1 degree per pound of boost, as well as running 94 octane gas.

I'd really love to be able to do what you can do with the American ECUs. Unfortunately, Honda saw fit to encrypt all of their ECUs OBDII and above. A company called Hondata does reflashes, but their only offering in the works right now is for a supercharger kit, and it isn't even on the market yet! So unfortunately I'm stuck with my piggyback for the time being...

 

[kaboom10]

11:1 is what my tuning book says to use. Have you ever read Engine Management Advanced Tuning by Greg Banish? I got a copy and it is great.

 

[WellEnoughAlone]

No, I've never heard of that book. Sounds like an interesting read, though.

I came up with 12.3 from advice from several tuners on another fit-oriented board (fitfreak forums, if you're interested). The consensus was that because I am running a relatively low amount of boost (6psi), and the fact that I am running 94 octane in a motor designed originally for 87 or lower, knocking should not be an issue and a 12.3 AFR (stock is 13.5) should be safe without washing down cylinder walls.

FWIW I tried an 11.0-11.5 for awhile, and my oil started to smell like gas again. I also noticed a reduction in power and black puffs of smoke out the exhaust (noticeably large ones, actually) when I hit boost. At 12.3-12.5, the car is much more responsive in boost, not to mention I don't have an automatic smoke cloud with every boost.

 

[d00df00d]

AFAIK, the best value will depend on the car. Each engine breathes, cools its combustion chambers, and resists knock differently.

 

[WellEnoughAlone]

True enough. Hondas use an "open deck" type design, so the cylinders are more or less free floating in a bath of coolant. It's possible this allows a higher resistance to knock and high chamber temps.

Anyone have any input on the oil question I posed?

 

[zulu]

For the sake of your motor, PLEASE don't run a 40w oil. The bearing clearances are WAY TOO TIGHT for a 40w. I would stick with a good syn 0/5W-30. It will survive being boosted just fine. Look at how many factory stock cars with FI use 30w oils.

Enjoy your Fit. I'm seriously considering buying one and undertaking a K20 swap. I miss my RSX so much...

 

[d00df00d]

I used to drive my buddy's RSX Type-S sometimes. *I* miss that car, and that was several years ago and I didn't even own it.

 

[kaboom10]

Here are some notes I have. Ckyour pm.

 

[Drew99GT]

I'd stick to a 5w-30 synthetic oil. If you ever drive for a longer distance or take it drag racing or something where the engine will get hot, 5w-30 will be better then 5w-20.

 

[kaboom10]

Think about getting a used oil analysis some time also.