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Like others have said,try a good high moly oil,like Pennzoil or Quaker State in oem weight.
Engine knocking. Heavier oil needed?
- Thread starter Rochev
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You may have carbon knock, it can sound similar to piston slap and a bottom end knock in severe case.
Easy to take care of, pull the plugs before an oil change and put some GM or Chrysler top engine cleaner down each plug hole, put the plugs in loosely so nothing falls down there and let it sit a couple of hours.
Remove the ECM or IGN fuse and crank it over with the plugs out to clear the cylinders, reinstall the plugs and fuse and fire it up then take it for a hard run. The next cold start should be silent, if so you need to add this regime to your regular maintenance list like the Cadillac N*.
Easy to take care of, pull the plugs before an oil change and put some GM or Chrysler top engine cleaner down each plug hole, put the plugs in loosely so nothing falls down there and let it sit a couple of hours.
Remove the ECM or IGN fuse and crank it over with the plugs out to clear the cylinders, reinstall the plugs and fuse and fire it up then take it for a hard run. The next cold start should be silent, if so you need to add this regime to your regular maintenance list like the Cadillac N*.
Ive noticed that Magnatec is quieter then Castrol Gold..and that M1 and Pennzoil Ultra seem to keep my engine the most quiet.
Up the weight to a 5w30 and maybe a synthetic STP oil treatment
Originally Posted By: dparm
Knocking is related to ignition and fuel, not oil.
Mechanical knocks and taps are definitely not directly related to fuel.
Spark knock is very different sounding and you aren't going to get ignition spark knock upon cold starting an engine in New England in the winter and it won't decrease after warming up the engine like the OP's vehicle.
Knocking is related to ignition and fuel, not oil.
Mechanical knocks and taps are definitely not directly related to fuel.
Spark knock is very different sounding and you aren't going to get ignition spark knock upon cold starting an engine in New England in the winter and it won't decrease after warming up the engine like the OP's vehicle.
I wouldn't try to doctor up that piston slap type of noise too much and definitely stay away from the additives. I'd keep using the 5w30 grade and relax.
If you have knocking even 60wt isn't going to fix it. You can't cure mechanical problems with lubricant choices.
Originally Posted By: StevieC
If you have knocking even 60wt isn't going to fix it. You can't cure mechanical problems with lubricant choices.
That's pretty much it. 0W20, 20W50. Conventional. Synthetic Have at them all, but if it's a true mechanical knock it's probably there for good.
I'd just drive it, too.
If you have knocking even 60wt isn't going to fix it. You can't cure mechanical problems with lubricant choices.
That's pretty much it. 0W20, 20W50. Conventional. Synthetic Have at them all, but if it's a true mechanical knock it's probably there for good.
I'd just drive it, too.
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