Electrical help
- Thread starter Dadillac
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I would go 50amp 6 gauge. with a 14-50 then he is ready for his next EV too.
I believe his current vehicle can charge upto 30amps 240v with the right setup.Indeed. Notice I wrote THAT ONE.
so it would be beneficial to his current vehicle too (unless the internets is wrong)
I didn't see that, maybe it's doing that with in 15 amp set up. Yikes!! Even 10ga would be borderline, true.
One thing I have noticed, generally speaking with 6ga (even 8ga) and larger wire, amateur electricians are kinda sloppy because the hurkiness of the wire. Cut and nicked strands, rough wire runs, funky termination. Maybe get an experienced buddy or HIRE A PRO.
Just saying.
Hired a pro for my 240v 6-20 set of outlets, separate circuits, that run the tablesaw, jointer, and dust collector. They all draw 12 amps or less, so the 6-20 is fine.
But for EV charging, I would install a 14-50, like the one I have in my shop.
Even if the EV manufacturer says the smaller outlet with an adapter is OK.
You clearly have a bit of a bad connection, so resistance is up, and the EV is sensing the fault. Maybe it’s the adapter, maybe it’s the wiring job, maybe it’s the outlet, but only a qualified electrician can put eyes on it and tell for sure.
But for EV charging, I would install a 14-50, like the one I have in my shop.
Even if the EV manufacturer says the smaller outlet with an adapter is OK.
You clearly have a bit of a bad connection, so resistance is up, and the EV is sensing the fault. Maybe it’s the adapter, maybe it’s the wiring job, maybe it’s the outlet, but only a qualified electrician can put eyes on it and tell for sure.
If you are not an electrician and you are going to do any wiring, get Wiring Simplified and read it until you understand it. You can find it many places like Home Depot, hardware stores, Amazon. It has a green cover. It may save your life.
Heat is from resistance. Resistance can be from corrosion, loose connection or wire that's too small. If only the plug is hot I would look there.
Okay that is a lot to digest. For the first 4 to 5 months all was well and I never got a stop charge during charging. This is only recently. I am using a 6-20r because that is the plug that is on the cord. If I remember correctly the charger in the car is only capable of 3.7kw per hour charging. So the amperage is pretty low. I am unsure if the fault may or may not be in the charging cable itself. I want to cover my bases before seeing if Volvo will give me a new cable. If memory serves me right I attached the wire to the outlet with the side plate. Not curled around the screw but placed behind the plate and tightened down. I am certain that my run and connections are proper. Was really wondering if not having a ground running from the outlet to the box would possibly cause the heat up. Or if the outlet itself may be the problem. Not sure why y'all are saying I am underwired and such. 6-20R is for 20 amp service. So 12/2 and 20 amp double pole breaker is what is called for and what is installed. If it was drawing more than 20 the breaker will trip. Which it does not. So I assume that the wire is not overheating.
Don
Don
Just went on Amazon and bought a Leviton industrial grade outlet. Should be here tomorrow. I will install and see what happens.
Don
Don
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3.7kw is nearly 31A w/ 120V… isn’t this 240v what receptacle did you purchase that’s industrial rated?
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Either the clamp or screw connection is fine. Just make sure they're 150% tight ! Since it has the clamp-type connection, it's at least a commercial-grade outlet and those are so much better than residential-grade. I'm not sure what you'll benefit from an "industrial-grade" outlet though.
I've been an electrician for 36 years and had my electrical license for 20 years. If it isn't a problem with the receptacle or it's connections the problem is in the Volvo supplied cord. Not grounding the box wouldn't cause the issue (although you need to ground the box), and installing a 50 amp circuit with a 15-50R receptacle won't fix it (a 6-20P plug won't fit it). Make sure you use a flat blade screwdriver when making the connections on the receptacle because a phillips screwdriver is worthless for torquing down those combination screws.
How much did you pay for that one ? I see a $6 one on their website but it only has screw terminals. That's definitely a cheap one and one to avoid and it appears you did.
Thanks. Someone who gets it. Yeah I always use my #3 phillips on outlets. But I can see how the flat blade would be better. I will definitely do that
Don
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You assume that it is not overheating, when the evidence suggests that it is, in fact, overheating.
I would not rule out improper wiring. I would not rule out cheap parts, developing corrosion, and/or pitting,
No, but it would be better to bond the box to ground nonetheless, especially if it's a metal box.
3.7 kwh is 16A at 240v. While within spec of the materials used, continuous load can present issues.
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