so I went to start the old Massey today and got nothing. Checked battery and it read 13.3V with multi-meter. Checked solenoid inlet, read power there. Replaced the solenoid with a new one just in case. Still nothing. Arc'd the terminals on the solenoid and the starter spins fine. Fuse is intact. Is my ignition switch shot then? What other test can I run?
electrical help needed
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Got 12V+ at the back of the ignition switch?
Jump the ignition switch. Feed +12 V to the solenoid where the ignition switch does.
Originally Posted By: dwcopple
Originally Posted By: Donald
Jump the ignition switch. Feed +12 V to the solenoid where the ignition switch does.
jump it how? from feed inlet to run inlet?
That's one way but you'd better have some heavy gauge wire.
From the "feed" - the lead to the battery, take a wire and connect it to the small terminal on the solenoid. If the solenoid is good it should "trip" it.
If there is more than one small terminal on the solenoid, it'd be the wire from the starter switch.
Originally Posted By: Donald
Jump the ignition switch. Feed +12 V to the solenoid where the ignition switch does.
jump it how? from feed inlet to run inlet?
That's one way but you'd better have some heavy gauge wire.
From the "feed" - the lead to the battery, take a wire and connect it to the small terminal on the solenoid. If the solenoid is good it should "trip" it.
If there is more than one small terminal on the solenoid, it'd be the wire from the starter switch.
Neutral safety switches are often faulty on older garden tractors and will cause nothing to happen when the ignition is turned. I bypassed mine on my 210 when I rewired it. Bypass it with a jumper and bump the starter with the ignition switch-if it turns over you've found your culprit.
Those little wiring harnesses are so simple that you'd do well to just replace it or make a new one. You'll spend all your time chasing electrical gremlins with the old electrical wiring and jury rigging done in the past.
Those little wiring harnesses are so simple that you'd do well to just replace it or make a new one. You'll spend all your time chasing electrical gremlins with the old electrical wiring and jury rigging done in the past.
A cheap 12v test light is your friend. There is at least one starter interlock safety switch and there could be as many as four... transmission, clutch pedal, blade engagement, and possibly seat. If there are more than one they will be wired in series. Just use the test light on them one at a time to find the malfunctioning switch, which may only just need to be adjusted. I advise against jumpering the switch. Some of these switches are two part, the other half goes to the ignition circuit. If you jumper the switch wrong you can send 12v to the magneto and you can say goodby to it. Those safety switches are reasonably cheap to replace anyway.
Originally Posted By: wag123
A cheap 12v test light is your friend.
^This.
I tell that to everybody who needs to troubleshoot a tractor. Buy a simple yes/no test light at your local auto parts store and a $5 DVM at Horror Freight and you've got the tools needed to fix 95% of the electrical problems on a tractor.
A cheap 12v test light is your friend.
^This.
I tell that to everybody who needs to troubleshoot a tractor. Buy a simple yes/no test light at your local auto parts store and a $5 DVM at Horror Freight and you've got the tools needed to fix 95% of the electrical problems on a tractor.
Originally Posted By: dwcopple
wiring diagram
http://www.mytractorforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=185500&d=1322760956
WOW, no safety switches at all! I'll bet there is a corroded connector/terminal in the circuit.
wiring diagram
http://www.mytractorforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=185500&d=1322760956
WOW, no safety switches at all! I'll bet there is a corroded connector/terminal in the circuit.
Originally Posted By: dwcopple
yep, nearly blew my finger off
If it blew it clean off, you won't do that again... with the same finger ;>)
yep, nearly blew my finger off
If it blew it clean off, you won't do that again... with the same finger ;>)
13-14vdc won't give you much of a shock, maybe a tingle, but it can give you one heck of a burn! Anyplace in a circuit that has built up some resistance (like a corroded connector/terminal/wire), or if you cause a short circuit, it can get very hot very quickly.
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