Craftsman LT1000 - Replaced Ignition Switch, worked for a bit, then died

[TXCarGeek]

Was dealing with a no crank/no start issue on my riding mower and traced it down to a bad ignition switch. Cleaned up the original and got it to work briefly. Ordered a new, original (Delta Systems), switch from amazon...it worked for about three or four starts and then quit working exactly like the old piece. I checked the white wire that runs to the starter solenoid for power when the switch is in the start(crank) position and I'm not getting the 12 volts that it should be getting.

My question is whether I just had bad luck with a faulty part or is something in the system ruining the switch? The inline, 20 amp fuse checked out fine. Just hard to believe that the new switch worked briefly and then died.

 

[Brian123]

When you originally had the no crank no start issue, did your lights at least come on? I had something like this happen on my Cub Cadet LT1046 and it was the PTO Switch. I ended up just cleaning off my switch, meaning PTO, so far it has been working fine.

 

[TXCarGeek]

When you originally had the no crank no start issue, did your lights at least come on? I had something like this happen on my Cub Cadet LT1046 and it was the PTO Switch. I ended up just cleaning off my switch, meaning PTO, so far it has been working fine.

The safety switch for the deck? I only have three safety switches--the clutch, the deck, and the seat. Other than the ignition switch, there's not any other switches. I checked all of them before ordering a new ignition switch and they're working as they should. I've checked the seat switch and it's fine. Guess it's worth checking the other two switches again.

 

[Rand]

are you sure its not something else like a safety switch causing no start

 

[Brian123]

The safety switch for the deck? I only have three safety switch--the clutch, the deck, and the seat. I checked all of them before ordering a new ignition switch and they're working as they should. I've checked the seat switch and it's fine. Guess it's worth checking the other two switches again.

How do you engage the blades on this Riding Mower? Did you try disconnecting the safety wire at the coil?

 

[TXCarGeek]

are you sure its not something else like a safety switch causing no start

Before buying a new ignition switch, I checked all three safety switches with my multimeter and they all checked out okay. I tested them again after the new switch seemed to fail and they're still testing okay.

 

[TXCarGeek]

How do you engage the blades on this Riding Mower? Did you try disconnecting the safety wire at the coil?

It's a handle that comes through the dashboard of the mower. The lever rests against the safety switch plunger when it's not engaged.

 

[TXCarGeek]

Did some more troubleshooting...checked for 12 volts from the white wire that runs all the way to the solenoid trigger. Starts at ignition, goes to clutch safety switch, then deck/blade safety switch, then to the starter solenoid. I got 12 volts to the first switch but only after jiggling wires on the ignition side of the wiring. From that first switch to the next switch, I didn't see any voltage whatsoever. I'm ordering a new switch just in case this one is messed up (it's been replaced earlier this summer and ohms out just fine) but I'm also going to try and clean out the connectors as best I can.

 

[mk378]

Unplug the switch and jump the B wire to the S wire, if it cranks you know it must be the switch. Or the connector that connects to the switch is loose.

 

[TXCarGeek]

Unplug the switch and jump the B wire to the S wire, if it cranks you know it must be the switch. Or the connector that connects to the switch is loose.

Just tried this...got it to crank briefly but couldn't get it to do it again. There must be a bad connection along the way to that trigger terminal on the solenoid.

 

[Lubener]

Was dealing with a no crank/no start issue on my riding mower and traced it down to a bad ignition switch. Cleaned up the original and got it to work briefly. Ordered a new, original (Delta Systems), switch from amazon...it worked for about three or four starts and then quit working exactly like the old piece. I checked the white wire that runs to the starter solenoid for power when the switch is in the start(crank) position and I'm not getting the 12 volts that it should be getting.

My question is whether I just had bad luck with a faulty part or is something in the system ruining the switch? The inline, 20 amp fuse checked out fine. Just hard to believe that the new switch worked briefly and then died.

Probably mis- diagnosed. Could be a wiring issue or one of the safety switches. I can't imagine your rider ruining a new ignition switch. It's much easier to troubleshoot with a schematic. Most of that wiring is behind the battery and its very possible there is an intermittent corroded connection at a plug.

 

[repairman54]

Sometimes safety switch's will meter test but open with a load. I just jump them out when testing.

 

[wolfox03SS]

It's possible that any safety switch under low load will ohm out fine. It's when they are under high Amp load that you may find problems. It stinks, and I sympathize; yet be prepared to parts cannon at her.

Conversely, I had a similar issue with my riding mower. Like you I went through all the safety and interlock switches and still had a random no crank issue.

It was my starter solenoid right next to the primary battery terminal. Oh, she clicked. She Ohmed on spec with a DVM. But she fell flat under load.

Luckily by the time I found her to be the wrinkle in the Matrix,I had all new brake, seat and ignition interlock switches. *^.^*

 

[chemman]

I too had a similar problem to what you are experiencing. Mine turned out to be too many poor electrical connections between the safety switches and the starter switch. Point to point they ohmed out OK, but ohming out from the stater switch to the solenoid (and going through all the safety switches) showed too much resistance (and it was not that many ohms). Circuit resistance needs to be almost 0 ohms total.

When I looked at all of the connectors in the wiring loom that went to the safety switches, etc, I saw a great deal of green grunge under the crimps. I replaced all the connectors in the circuit, and soldered them to the wires and the mower once again started and ran like it was supposed to.

 

[TXCarGeek]

I too had a similar problem to what you are experiencing. Mine turned out to be too many poor electrical connections between the safety switches and the starter switch. Point to point they ohmed out OK, but ohming out from the stater switch to the solenoid (and going through all the safety switches) showed too much resistance (and it was not that many ohms). Circuit resistance needs to be almost 0 ohms total.

When I looked at all of the connectors in the wiring loom that went to the safety switches, etc, I saw a great deal of green grunge under the crimps. I replaced all the connectors in the circuit, and soldered them to the wires and the mower once again started and ran like it was supposed to.

I'm thinking that's what my issue is. Got another ignition switch and a spare safety switch and it's made no difference. Seems to be a wiring/connector issue, specifically with the white wires that run from the ignition, through both safety switches, to the starter solenoid.

I'm thinking I'm going to have to do what you did with fresh wiring or even try to find a whole new harness if it's reasonably priced. The tractor has lived all its life outside in the Coastal Bend of Texas so there's a ton of humidity that isn't nice to wiring.

 

[TXCarGeek]

Probably mis- diagnosed. Could be a wiring issue or one of the safety switches. I can't imagine your rider ruining a new ignition switch. It's much easier to troubleshoot with a schematic. Most of that wiring is behind the battery and its very possible there is an intermittent corroded connection at a plug.

I've ohmed out a run of wire between two of the switches and it's showing to be open. Going to start there...just need to figure how to depin the plug and get the wire out to see if it need to be cleaned or replaced.

 

[chemman]

Most of the connectors are Packard Type 56 terminals. There is a little metal tang on the connectors such that when they are placed into the connector shell, they lock the connector into place. They do make extraction tools to insert into the shell and depress the tang, or you can use a very small and thin screwdriver. There should be lots of youtube videos on how to remove and work with Packard Type 56 connectors.

You might just be better off to purchase a couple of spools of the appropriately sized and colored wire and replace the sections. I remember pricing a new wiring harness for my Craftsman mower and it was around $150 two years ago.

 

[TXCarGeek]

Most of the connectors are Packard Type 56 terminals. There is a little metal tang on the connectors such that when they are placed into the connector shell, they lock the connector into place. They do make extraction tools to insert into the shell and depress the tang, or you can use a very small and thin screwdriver. There should be lots of youtube videos on how to remove and work with Packard Type 56 connectors.

You might just be better off to purchase a couple of spools of the appropriately sized and colored wire and replace the sections. I remember pricing a new wiring harness for my Craftsman mower and it was around $150 two years ago.

That's very helpful...I was wondering what kind of terminals these were. Would certainly be faster to replace sections instead of waiting for a new/used harness to arrive. I'm going to work on it tomorrow and see what I can get done.

 

[chemman]

Good Luck!

 

[TXCarGeek]

Pulled the wires from the connectors and cleaned them up...also traced down a loose connection on the safety switch side of the white wire coming from the ignition switch. Got it running for the time being but I'm going to have to actually replace these wires for reliability. Thanks for the help guys.