EcoBoost - Mobil 1 AFE 0w30 or Castrol 0w40?

[mdixon26288]

Greetings,

This is my first post on BITOG. I've tried searching before posting, but couldn't find exactly what I'm looking for.

I have a 2015 Ford Edge 2.0 EcoBoost. Which of course is a direct injection turbo. I get a little timing chain rattle noise at start up that goes away after 5-10 seconds, and it's been that way since the day I bought it.

Ford recommends 5w-30 year round. I live in the mid-Atlantic where we can see -5*F in the winter and 105*F in summer. I typically run Amsoil SS 5w-30 with a Fram Ultra, but I'm looking to save a little $$$. I drive around 22k a year.

I'm looking for a little better start up protection to possibly eliminate the timing chain noise. I also want excellent high temp protection for those 105F summer days. The two oils I've been curious about is Mobil 1 AFE 0w-30 or Castrol 0w-40. The Castrol does not list my Ford spec on the back of the bottle. However I know many ppl use in their 3.5L EcoBoost with no problems. Both of these oil can be purchased at Walmart for $25-28.

Is the Castrol 0w-40 going to be too high of viscosity for the 2.0L?

Is a full saps oil going to create carbon deposits on my valves?

Basically I want an oil that can take a little shearing or fuel dilution and stay within spec (30w), has low Noack, and good pumpabilty in low temps.

Any insight is appreciated. Thanks!

 

[Macky]

I just wanted to chime in on that timing chain rattle you mentioned. I noticed that only after I changed the oil on my dad's '18 Expedition Limited. after changing the oil I heard that ticking sound for about a few seconds and went away. But I never heard it before upon start up or since the oil change. does yours always rattle on startup?

FWIW I changed the FF with Castrol EDGE black 5W-30 with an OEM Motorcraft filter.

 

[Triple_Se7en]

If that 5-10 second noise was present from Day-1, I would have parked that new vehicle at the dealer the very next day.

If you have documented proof of that rattle complaint, try to get that fixed ASAP, at Ford's expense. But before you take the vehicle back to the dealer, fill with Motorcraft full syn 5w30 and a Motorcraft filter.

If you insist on doing nothing at the dealer, run Quaker State Durability syn with a more free-flowing filter..... perhaps a Fram Extra Guard new formulation with silicone ADBV.

No oil will cure that timing chain. But a high moly oil will help and you may already have that high moly in Amsoil. So I would replace that Ultra with an Extra Guard and re-evaluate a couple thousand miles later. That will eliminate any chance that the oil filter is causing the cold startup rattle, instead of the timing chain.

 

[addyguy]

Keep using the Amsoil SS; and run it longer. I'll bet you don't run it close to the interval it will actually do.

 

[mdixon26288]

Maybe I'm exaggerating a little on the rattle it is there for a few seconds though. It's not overly loud either. I bet most wouldn't even notice but I'm a little OCD about that stuff. I asked about it at the time of purchase, and the dealer pulled a new 2018 model with the same engine. Sounded the exact same. At this point it has 62k on it and out of power train warranty.

 

[redbone3]

Try some LiquiMoly. It clings to timing chains like a junkie does drugs.

 

[WhizkidTN]

IMHO: I don't think you can go wrong with either selection. In my 2.0T, I've always run a 0W-40 oil, currently the Castrol Edge, since it performed better on my UOA against M1 0W-40. But to your specific question, the M1 AFE 0W-30 oil seems to be known as good stuff. You could try either and see what you get via startup noise, oil consumption, UOA run, etc.

 

[ka9mnx]

Those temps are not extreme for a 5w-30. 5w-30 will protect your engine just fine. Ford expects you to use a syn blend (Motorcraft) so any syn would be better. I would use any SN+ (or better) D1G2 synthetic oil in your engine. If you want to save some cash, SuperTech and a Motorcraft filter both available from WM.

 

[ls973800]

I swear that I just recently read a Ford spec sheet that said Castrol is a recommended oil to use. I'll have to try and find where I read that.

 

[Hall]

Originally Posted by ls973800
I swear that I just recently read a Ford spec sheet that said Castrol is a recommended oil to use. I'll have to try and find where I read that.
It says that in overseas owner's manuals.

 

[PPWarrior]

Why don't you use Motorcraft oil and filter. You will save a lot of money if you buy it in good old Walmart

 

[Revving2Redline]

0w40 Castrol over M1 0w30 but a stout 5w30 would be better.

 

[DAC21]

While I have not used it in my 1.6 l. turbo Elantra GT, I've heard good things with the EcoBoost turbos using Castrol Magnetron. I believe there are a number of oil analysis on the site showing as much. Supposedly they're intelligent molecule oil really sticks to the top end of your motor so you've got a nice film upon startup.

 

[jongies3]

I give the nod to AFE, having run both in my Tacoma in different winters. Butt dyno says I have less startup noise and cranks faster on the AFE, even at well below zero! We had several -20 days in February and a couple -30 days, never once a problem starting and no engine noise. Also using the same filter in my sig, a basic orange Fram. I think AFE has a -50 pour point or something like that, one of the lowest I have found without going boutique. Seems like with all the cold pour tests you see on YT anything from XOM pours out the fastest. Not sure how scientific that is, but helps me decide easier!

Edge may be a better summer oil for you, or M1 0W-40. Not sure if those EB's run fairly hot since they're turbo'd or what. Too new for my taste! Lol

 

[meep]

I'm not usually on the oil forum but question this too with my 2.7L eco. I will say that this is my longest interval so far, approaching 8,000 miles with some tow duty involved. When not towing, I drive like grandpa. I run 5-30 PP and motorcraft filters, but when the warranty ends I'll move to 10-30 and a different filter, once more offerings are available.

I suspect in my case and yours, a 40 weight is overkill. I recall reading somewhere that one of the oil certifications pertinent to the ford requirement has to do with deposits from oil in the turbo application - meaning that the certification was indeed important. Whether it was something listed on the back or the two-letter things up top, I don't recall - BUT the issue is the 30 weight oils carried the spec, and the 40 weight oils didn't, because there was no need to do so.

Regardless of 105F outside, the engine coolant is ~200, and internal surfaces between 200 and 650F (pistons). So the difference between 90F and 105F externally means very little internally.

The main issue here is possibly using a thicker base-stock for startup wear from a non-moving point. the 10-30 idea would probably be right for you to try as well. A 0 weight might be backwards for you.

The risks of running a non-spec oil? If the risk is real, it won't show up for a while. When it does, it will probably show up as coking or buildup in the turbos.

best of luck,

-m

 

[edyvw]

Those are two different oils. In general, Castrol 0W40 will be far more superior, and it is considered "thin" W40.
NOACK in that oil, regardless that it is 0W40, will be much better than M1 AFE 0W30 (Castrol 0W40 is 9.1%).
Personally, if it was my vehicle, I would run Castrol 0W40.
You can go with Castrol Edge 0W30, probably dearest oil among Euro owners, but it is some $56 for 6qt box on Amazon.

 

[4WD]

Originally Posted by PPWarrior
Why don't you use Motorcraft oil and filter. You will save a lot of money if you buy it in good old Walmart


Works great in these cars:

2014 1.6L Nissan Versa Sedan, 5 spd, 5k OCI.
2011 3.5L Chevrolet Impala, Automatic, 5k OCI.