E-Core? More Like Sweet-Core

How are you able to determine that there are no "issues" with the filter? You can't see inside of it. If there was any damage to the media or internals (media torn, bypass valve not working properly, etc.), how would you know until the filter is removed from the car and examined? Would there be an alert of some sort telling you there was a problem?
"So far so good no issues" means the engine isn't making any noises or hasnt blown-up. :D
 
If E-cores are good enough for GM as a service filter(unless the ACDelco UPF filters are using steel cores and poppet ADBVs), it’ll be a reliable service filter for most everything else.
E CORE filters must be good enough for GM since equinox, Spark, Malibu and GMC trucks and Silverados use them. I e cut many apart in Mike range of 5k to 9,700 miles without issues.
 
E CORE filters must be good enough for GM since equinox, Spark, Malibu and GMC trucks and Silverados use them. I e cut many apart in Mike range of 5k to 9,700 miles without issues.
Yea, if GM thought they were so bad, they wouldn’t be selling ACDelco “genuine GM” filters using E-Core elements and the Filter Manufacturer’s Council would issue an advisory against their use on GM engines.

The wildcards are Hyundai/Kia and Subaru - which the aftermarket seems to have gravitated towards consolidating towards the PH6607 Nissan thimble filter(which is also the same size as motorcycle filter for many Honda/Kawasaki/Suzuki/Yamaha bikes). That’s a standard metal core/caps design on the Champ side.
 
Yea, if GM thought they were so bad, they wouldn’t be selling ACDelco “genuine GM” filters using E-Core elements and the Filter Manufacturer’s Council would issue an advisory against their use on GM engines.

The wildcards are Hyundai/Kia and Subaru - which the aftermarket seems to have gravitated towards consolidating towards the PH6607 Nissan thimble filter(which is also the same size as motorcycle filter for many Honda/Kawasaki/Suzuki/Yamaha bikes). That’s a standard metal core/caps design on the Champ side.
Yes, that's the same super tech filter my Kubota zero turn takes. 99% @ 30 microns probably won't blow anything up lol.
 
So I personally was against using E-Core filters on my car. On my previous car a 1999 Deville, I had issues where with a PF-61E E core filter would make the oil pressure light flicker at idle after 1000 Miles. This was in 2013. I switched to a regular PF-61 filter and never saw the oil light flicker again in the next 5 years I had the car

This year for my 2011 DTS, I got annoyed at the price increase for oil filters. My preferred filter was a Napa Platinum 41522 filter. Id get them for $5 or $8 when they are sale. However, they haven't been on sale in the past year and I don't feel like paying $14 for one.

So I figured for $4, Id give the PF-61 E Core filter a try. Well after 5000 miles, no issues. No oil pressure light and the engine sounded fine. Ill probably use one again for my next OCI.
 
So I personally was against using E-Core filters on my car. On my previous car a 1999 Deville, I had issues where with a PF-61E E core filter would make the oil pressure light flicker at idle after 1000 Miles.
That's wasn't due to the filter's center core being an eCore ... something else caused that.
 
The wildcards are Hyundai/Kia and Subaru - which the aftermarket seems to have gravitated towards consolidating towards the PH6607 Nissan thimble filter(which is also the same size as motorcycle filter for many Honda/Kawasaki/Suzuki/Yamaha bikes). That’s a standard metal core/caps design on the Champ side.


That looks like a decent sized filter. No need for the big stuff anymore.

Mine is about the size of a yogurt cup.
 
Several open/inspects of the ST and MP filters look like the only difference is the anti-drain back valve. Nitrile on the ST and silicone on the MP.

5K or under, get the ST, anything over that get the MP. The ST box says 10K and the MP box says 20K. Well made basic filters that get the job done.
 
Several open/inspects of the ST and MP filters look like the only difference is the anti-drain back valve. Nitrile on the ST and silicone on the MP.

5K or under, get the ST, anything over that get the MP. The ST box says 10K and the MP box says 20K. Well made basic filters that get the job done.
Would you worry about the 99% 30 micron rating ?
 
Seeing million of cars go well over 100K with horrific oil change intervals and jiffy lube stickers, nah.

My understanding is the ST filters have a better efficiency rating than Hyundai OEM, so.......
Thanks for the reply. I'm gonna run the one I bought. After that, it's back to Wix.
 
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