E-Core? More Like Sweet-Core

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Sep 9, 2016
Messages
225
Location
North Dakota
Like many of us, I dismissed E-cores due to the early, um, teething periods the technology experienced. I think that's the most delicate way to put it. After seeing more comments about them, the improvements made, the benefits in light of poor louver stamping and virtually non-existent circular center tube cutouts, I'm dropping my walls and thinking about them. The best example I can think of is Champ Labs' offerings, whether on their own or in Super Tech flavor. Considering the hit-and-miss build quality on filters, it's reassuring to know that you don't have to worry about restricted flows in your center tube. Plus, they're usually readily available for a decent price, which is a big plus these days.

I'm thinking about putting my money where my mouth is and picking up a Super Tech Maximum Performance filter. My OCI is about 4,500-5,000 miles per year. I have no doubts at all whether this filter can handle that. But due to the low mileage I put on, I'm wondering how these hold up on a one year interval. Has anyone had personal experience with this or have C&Ps to share?
 
Like many of us, I dismissed E-cores due to the early, um, teething periods the technology experienced. I think that's the most delicate way to put it. After seeing more comments about them, the improvements made, the benefits in light of poor louver stamping and virtually non-existent circular center tube cutouts, I'm dropping my walls and thinking about them. The best example I can think of is Champ Labs' offerings, whether on their own or in Super Tech flavor. Considering the hit-and-miss build quality on filters, it's reassuring to know that you don't have to worry about restricted flows in your center tube. Plus, they're usually readily available for a decent price, which is a big plus these days.

I'm thinking about putting my money where my mouth is and picking up a Super Tech Maximum Performance filter. My OCI is about 4,500-5,000 miles per year. I have no doubts at all whether this filter can handle that. But due to the low mileage I put on, I'm wondering how these hold up on a one year interval. Has anyone had personal experience with this or have C&Ps to share?
Depending on your application, but if it's a spin on filter, only difference between the MP's and ST's is the silicone anti-drain back valve. For your application, seems to me that either will work fine.

Tons of each have been cut open, and several youtube videos comparing the two. Hint, google ST9688 (or whatever filter number applies to you) and then BITOG. Example: ST9688 cut open BITOG

Video:

 
I have one of the Super Tech MP's on deck for the wife's Ford, that's a first. Not sure on efficiency though, but with Fram's changes and Motorcraft gone from Wally's thought I'd try one.
 
It looks like the MP10060 fits my application. Unfortunately, I can't find any information on the BPV PSI. Although I did find a Whip City Wrencher video on that same filter, so I'll check that out. Odd thing is, it looks like this filter crosses to a lot of different vehicles. The height is only 3.31" but I was hoping for a slightly taller filter around 4" but I can't seem to find anything from Super Tech like that.
 
Yes, you're not going to have to worry about flow with an e-core.
I've been using the Champ manufactured AC Delco e-cores on my GM trucks for years. Price and availability are the main reasons. For me, they're an easy choice to make.
 
E-cores have not been an issue in almost 2 decades.
The first year or 2 they came out there were issues with plastic breaking and filter media "blowouts", but again, not an issue now.
Also when you look at cartridge filters, the majority of those only come with an e-core type center support.
 
E-core's are nothing new and controversial

I've had so-called E-cores back before BITOG called them e-cores when they were used by VW on cartridge filters on my 2002 Golf TDI (and they were used since at least 1999 on the ALH engine).
 
vw-alh-tdi-oil-filter-15971.jpg
 
E-core's are nothing new and controversial

I've had so-called E-cores back before BITOG called them e-cores when they were used by VW on cartridge filters on my 2002 Golf TDI (and they were used since at least 1999 on the ALH engine).
E-cores have not been an issue in almost 2 decades.
The first year or 2 they came out there were issues with plastic breaking and filter media "blowouts", but again, not an issue now.
Also when you look at cartridge filters, the majority of those only come with an e-core type center support.
That's a good point regarding cartridge filters, for some reason I overlooked that. I'm assuming if ST and other brands offer extended interval E-cores, then the plastic center tubes should be capable of withstanding the 20,000 miles advertised and, most likely, annual OCIs.
 
Since Wix went to $12.99 at my local O'Reilly ,I'm gonna be running Super Tech and Microgard Select for the foreseeable future.
I've already purchased a few of the ST MP10060 , which is the 20,000 mile filter.
 
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Since Wix went to $12.99 at my local O'Reilly ,I'm gonna be running Super Tech and Microgard for the foreseeable future.
I've already purchased a few of the ST MP10060 , which is the 20,000 mile filter.
I hear you. After busting my butt trying to find Donaldsons, I worked about as hard to find a possible alternative Fleetguard in my application. Now, I just have to find the motivation to call the fleet supply shops around town. Most likely, I'll just not do that and pick up an ST MP filter or Microgard Select. The prices for the "old standbys" are getting ridiculous these days.

Funny enough, I can still pick up a Purolator One blue can for $6.67 around here, or a Boss for $10.67, but I don't know if I trust Purolator or like the efficiency on the Boss.
 
Since Wix went to $12.99 at my local O'Reilly ,I'm gonna be running Super Tech and Microgard Select for the foreseeable future.
I've already purchased a few of the ST MP10060 , which is the 20,000 mile filter.
How can you buy a oil filter for the price of a 20 oz coke at the gas station? (and both are made in the U.S.) HOW IS THIS POSSIBLE?
 
Currently have a SuperTech ecore filter on my Chevy Silverado 6.0 .
Next month will be one year that it's been on the truck .
I estimate between 4400 - 5000 miles before I change it.
So far so good no issues .
Not sure if you have the means to, but I'd be interested in a C&P if you have the mind to.
 
That's a good point regarding cartridge filters, for some reason I overlooked that. I'm assuming if ST and other brands offer extended interval E-cores, then the plastic center tubes should be capable of withstanding the 20,000 miles advertised and, most likely, annual OCIs.
Not all cartridge filters have a center support cage.

My 2008 Passat 2.0T didn't have it on the cartridge filter, however the oil filter cap had the equivalent support cage.

06d115408b.jpg
 
Currently have a SuperTech ecore filter on my Chevy Silverado 6.0 .
Next month will be one year that it's been on the truck .
I estimate between 4400 - 5000 miles before I change it.
So far so good no issues .
If E-cores are good enough for GM as a service filter(unless the ACDelco UPF filters are using steel cores and poppet ADBVs), it’ll be a reliable service filter for most everything else.
 
Not all cartridge filters have a center support cage.

My 2008 Passat 2.0T didn't have it on the cartridge filter, however the oil filter cap had the equivalent support cage.
So does the filter cap of my Toyota, although it looks very different, being stamped steel with small holes.

However, some brands of cartridges allow so much clearance between the media and the cap's support cage (= center tube) that the media would have to collapse badly before the the support cage would have any effect.
 
Currently have a SuperTech ecore filter on my Chevy Silverado 6.0 .
Next month will be one year that it's been on the truck .
I estimate between 4400 - 5000 miles before I change it.
So far so good no issues .
How are you able to determine that there are no "issues" with the filter? You can't see inside of it. If there was any damage to the media or internals (media torn, bypass valve not working properly, etc.), how would you know until the filter is removed from the car and examined? Would there be an alert of some sort telling you there was a problem?
 
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