Duron-E in gas engine?

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I have a couple of jugs of petro Canada duron-e in 5w40 weight.

http://lubricants.petro-canada.ca/en/products/2725.aspx

Just wondering if it's ok to use a jug of it in my 2009 f150 5.4 if I mix in some Mobil 0w20 AFE for the remaining oil to get to the 7 quart capacity? Summer use only. More concerned about the soot dispersants and cleaners in it than any weight concerns.

Opinions?
Thanks
 
Since 5W-20 is spec'd for your F150 I would use
the less expensive TGMO 0W-20, besides it has a much lower KV40 spec' so you can use more of the
Duron 5W-40. Still I wouldn't blend in much more than 15% or you'll have a 30 grade oil.
At that rate it could take you a few years to use up the Duron.

It might be easier to return the Duron an exchanges for something lighter, ideally PC 5W-20 or 0W-20.
 
You can run it perfectly well all year, assuming you're out of warranty or not concerned about running out of spec. It's not the optimal viscosity, but it won't hurt. I wouldn't even bother with mixing. Trade it in if possible, as CATERHAM suggested, or run it straight.
 
I'll buy it from you. It's my go-to winter oil in everything except
the 320X John Deer which has 0W40 PC in it.
How can you tell that your 5W40 is a winter oil?
Well, the 5W test is performed at -30C for ease of engine cranking.
Border-line pumping test for 5W is -35C

Therefore, a 10W30 is thicker at -35C than a 5W40.

The pour point is also an indicator of a lubricant's suitability for winter use.

What is the pour point of your engine oil compared to the oil you would rather use?

Before 0W40s became more available (ESSO XD-3 the first) 5W40s were the oil-patch
choice, or leave the engine running 24/7 the other option.

I think the pour point for the 5W40 Duron E is -48C

I know that you said "summer use only" but I got carried away.
 
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Originally Posted By: used_0il

How can you tell that your 5W40 is a winter oil?
Well, the 5W test is performed at -30C for ease of engine cranking.
Border-line pumping test for 5W is -35C

Therefore, a 10W30 is thicker at -35C than a 5W40.

And a 10W-30 is thicker at -35C than every 5W-50 and 5W-60 (yes there is such an animal).
And every 0W-40 and 0W-50 will be lighter than a 5W-40 at the same temperature.

So not surprisingly the SAE winter grade rating of an oil is a pretty good indicator of an oil's performance at those extremely cold temp's, PP is a highly unreliable indicator of an oil's extreme cold performance, hence the development of the CCS and MRV viscosity measures.

Also not surprisingly, Canada makes some very good extreme cold performing oils. Duron-E 5W-40 is very good for a heavy HTHSV 4.2cP oil, better than some 5W-20s.
 
Might use a couple of percent more fuel, that's about the sum of the "counter productivity"...not something I'd choose to do, but certainly won't hurt anything if you've already got the oil and are stuck with it.

Your fuel savings in dumping it and using 5W20 certainly won't offset the value of the oil if you get nothing for it/dump it.
 
That's your heavier is bettet biased opinion talking.
Their is a big difference between the specified 2.6cP oil and a 4.2cP oil that affects every aspect a vehicles performance.
It includes a loss of power and more unnecessary stress on engine parts including the oil pump. And lubrication is affected due to the reduced oil flow even normal operating temp's.
Yes if keep the rev's down you can minimize some of the negative effects but it's irresponsible to say fuel economy is all you're loosing out on running two or three grades heavier than specified.
 
The winter itself would probably make a bigger difference to him than the oil grade. It's certainly not optimal, but not a big deal. If it were me, I'd use it as it sits in the bottle, but you already knew that.
wink.gif
 
Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
That's your heavier is bettet biased opinion talking.
Their is a big difference between the specified 2.6cP oil and a 4.2cP oil that affects every aspect a vehicles performance.
It includes a loss of power and more unnecessary stress on engine parts including the oil pump. And lubrication is affected due to the reduced oil flow even normal operating temp's.
Yes if keep the rev's down you can minimize some of the negative effects but it's irresponsible to say fuel economy is all you're loosing out on running two or three grades heavier than specified.

CATERHAM, you and your oil pump...your oil pump has similar additional load to a single low beam headlight...

The engine friction is the couple of percent mileage that I referred to...and yes, maybe a percent shaft power as well.

Please demonstrate the magnitude of the "unnecessary stress" created by thicker oil versus the combustion and inertial loads...your "additional stresses" are a fraction of a percent of the actual loads anywhere in an engine.

And, as always, please demonstrate where the 20s shine in industry standard wear tests like sequence IV...again
 
A "sardonic" sense of humor takes years of practice to perfect.

Thanks for the laugh once again Shannow.

Next question;

How much time does an engine oil spend at the temperature at which
HTHS is calculated (150C)?

What I'm getting at here is the engine and fluids go through a warm-up
period that can vary in duration depending on _________.(pick ten variables)

During that warm-up period, all the vehicle's lubricants are a different temperature
than the temperature which their specifications were established.

The subtle difference that one of lubricant grade may have in fuel economy over another,
may not be enough for an individual vehicle owner to measure.

A fleet operator would or could likely tell the difference in economy say between
a fleet of trucks using 10W30 instead of 15W40.

That said, the State of New York and all of it's drivers could save 10,000 gallons
of fuel a day if everyone pumped up their tires and switched to 5W20 engine oil.

But the individual New Yorker could not accurately calculate the minuscule difference.
 
Originally Posted By: Shannow
Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
That's your heavier is bettet biased opinion talking.
Their is a big difference between the specified 2.6cP oil and a 4.2cP oil that affects every aspect a vehicles performance.
It includes a loss of power and more unnecessary stress on engine parts including the oil pump. And lubrication is affected due to the reduced oil flow even normal operating temp's.
Yes if keep the rev's down you can minimize some of the negative effects but it's irresponsible to say fuel economy is all you're loosing out on running two or three grades heavier than specified.

CATERHAM, you and your oil pump...your oil pump has similar additional load to a single low beam headlight...

The engine friction is the couple of percent mileage that I referred to...and yes, maybe a percent shaft power as well.

Please demonstrate the magnitude of the "unnecessary stress" created by thicker oil versus the combustion and inertial loads...your "additional stresses" are a fraction of a percent of the actual loads anywhere in an engine.

And, as always, please demonstrate where the 20s shine in industry standard wear tests like sequence IV...again

Hypocritically you're conveniently overlooking the fact that the oil pump will be in by-pass most of the time on the heavy 40 grade oil reducing oil flow.

And right I should never forget that you believe a 20 grade oil will shorten engine life of any engine it is run in, specified or otherwise. I think you should add that "believe" to your signature just so that everyone knows where you're coming from,
for credibility purposes.
 
Originally Posted By: used_0il

How much time does an engine oil spend at the temperature at which
HTHS is calculated (150C)?

Parts of an engine certainly and then some but of course rarely sump oil temp's outside of a race track.
What's important about the HTHSV measure (sometimes called bearing viscosity) is that is represents the viscosity of an oil under stress or pressure in an running engine. And while it's measured at 150C (also at 100C but not as commonly) it's effect applies to normal operating temp's and even temp's as low as 0C.
Consequently it's the most accurate reference to how thick or thin an oil is at operating temp's modified by an oil's viscosity index.
It was discussed years ago in detail in the following thread:

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2276634&page=1
 
Originally Posted By: CATERHAM

And right I should never forget that you believe a 20 grade oil will shorten engine life of any engine it is run in, specified or otherwise. I think you should add that "believe" to your signature just so that everyone knows where you're coming from,
for credibility purposes.


See, now (as usual), you are just plain making stuff up, and attributing it to me...it's CATERHAM SOP when you refuse to answer questions regarding your "posits"

And you have the gall to talk credibility.
 
Originally Posted By: CATERHAM

Hypocritically you're conveniently overlooking the fact that the oil pump will be in by-pass most of the time on the heavy 40 grade oil reducing oil flow.


That's a rather blanket statement to be making. While this may be the case for certain engine designs it most certainly isn't for many others.
 
and flow <> lubrication.

Pressure provides a reservoir of oil for the bearing to draw from...hydrodynamic bearings can pull a couple of psi suction if the oil feed is located well.

And as per some of my previous design posts, a hydrodynamic bearing will only draw from it's supply that oil that it needs to replace the side leakage.

You don't need to pump oil through them, a common mistake for people who don't understand the science...you are supplying oil TO the bearing...jamming an oil pump's worth of oil into a bearing is not "lubricating" it.
 
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