Durability Toyota 0w-20 oil

[CATERHAM]

Then your point for Clevy regarding Windsor engines would be that a higher than what is normally acceptably minimum OP is necessary when extracting maximum power.
Or to be more precise, from your experience a certain minimum OP spec' at high rev's is what you'd recommend for a stressed Windsor engine.

That being the case, then Clevy may or may not still be able to maintain your minimum recommended OP running Mobil 1 5W-20 when the oil is up to normal operating temp's, and if he can't he would be advised not to use full power.

 

[Clevy]

Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
Then your point for Clevy regarding Windsor engines would be that a higher than what is normally acceptably minimum OP is necessary when extracting maximum power.
Or to be more precise, from your experience a certain minimum OP spec' at high rev's is what you'd recommend for a stressed Windsor engine.

That being the case, then Clevy may or may not still be able to maintain your minimum recommended OP running Mobil 1 5W-20 when the oil is up to normal operating temp's, and if he can't he would be advised not to use full power.


My oil pressure gauge is accurate against a mechanical one we installed,noting the previous readings for hot and cold idle and hot pressure on the highway and the mechanical gauge read within a couple pounds of the stock gauge so i opted to just hook the stocker back up once we discovered it was within a couple pounds of the autometer gauge i bought.
I wanted to use the autometer in the capri anyways. I bought a 3 gauge cluster.

And all I'm saying is that at highway speeds there is no noticeable difference in oil pressure and only a slight reduction in oil pressure at hot idle vs the RP API stamped 10w30 that was in it before.
Cold idle is substantially different though.
Cold oil pressure with Mobil 1 5w20 is roughly 45 pounds whereas with RP 10w30 it was over 55 pounds,if that is a relevant data point.
And I have been going full blast on the car. Its a bit more fun now with the added pep. I've got the timing advanced to 18 degrees now. Running 94 octane from Mohawk. Sometimes it breaks apart around 5000rpm so I add half a gallon toluene and that fixes er right up.
I'm really not aiming for longevity here. Tire shredding,clutch dumping red neck good ole boy fun.

 

[CATERHAM]

Clevy, that doesn't surprise me about RP 10w30, although we don't know if we are comparing the two oils at exactly the same oil temp' (or do we?) plus the Mobil 1 5W-20 is totally fresh.
BTW, what is the maximum OP on your Windsor engine (the by-pass point)?

Off topic, but I also get some lower rpm knock even on Sunoco 94.
Where do you get the toluene? Have you tried any of the octane boost products like STP's?

 

[Clevy]

Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
Clevy, that doesn't surprise me about RP 10w30, although we don't know if we are comparing the two oils at exactly the same oil temp' (or do we?) plus the Mobil 1 5W-20 is totally fresh.
BTW, what is the maximum OP on your Windsor engine (the by-pass point)?

Off topic, but I also get some lower rpm knock even on Sunoco 94.
Where do you get the toluene? Have you tried any of the octane boost products like STP's?


Buying the toluene at the Home Depot. 12 bucks a gallon iirc. I'm not sure about oil temps. My highway commute in that car is always the same flat stretch of road,as are most here in Saskatchewan and I'm sure the way I'm driving it the oil temps will get higher than normal regular everyday driving.
Its my "for fun" car now that I've got the charger. I get home after work and take the days stresses out on the tires of that mustang.
I'm not trying to make it last or get those last few miles out of it. I'm driving it like I don't care if it breaks,because I've got another complete drivetrain for it,which is actually why I'm using a 20 grade in it. I want to see exactly what happens when you put that oil in an older higher mile engine and you proceed to pound on it.
That being said I'm not retarded. If oil pressure was too low as compared to the specified 30 grade I would go back to a 30 grade however in operation the differences are barely noticeable and had I not seen the previous values I wouldn't know there was any difference at all.
Like I've already said,I'm a thicker is better guy. This little backyard trial is my way of seeing exactly what these off the shelf,easy to attain 20 grades are able to do in and older,higher mileage engine.
I already tried it in my 99 chev. Hot idle was too low for my comfort level,so no 20 grades for it again,so I'm not pushing for all old engines to go for it with thin oil.
I am just wanting to see with my own eyes what happens.
I am using mos2 in the oil,for whatever that's worth.

 

[demarpaint]

Originally Posted By: Clevy

I am using mos2 in the oil,for whatever that's worth.


Do you think the MoS2 is giving you a little extra protection? It certainly adds another variable to the equation.

 

[OVERKILL]

Just a note here but I've never had oil pressure in the 20's on my 302's. Even with the 0w-20 the lowest I ever saw was around 32psi hot at idle. Now of course I never ran that oil in the summer so I'm not sure what it would have been then, but that's IIRC the lowest I ever remember seeing it.

The fact that you've indicated that it was still in the 20's on the RP is a bit surprising to me. I'm typically around 38psi with Mobil 1 0w-40, 5w30 was around 35psi. And this is an engine with WELL over 300,000Km on it.

BTW, the factory bypass CATERHAM, since you asked, is 60 or 65psi, can't remember which off the top of my head.

 

[OVERKILL]

Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
Then your point for Clevy regarding Windsor engines would be that a higher than what is normally acceptably minimum OP is necessary when extracting maximum power.
Or to be more precise, from your experience a certain minimum OP spec' at high rev's is what you'd recommend for a stressed Windsor engine.

That being the case, then Clevy may or may not still be able to maintain your minimum recommended OP running Mobil 1 5W-20 when the oil is up to normal operating temp's, and if he can't he would be advised not to use full power.


Pretty much

 

[CATERHAM]

Clevy, since this is a TGMO thread I just thought I'd mention that the following 0w30 TGMO/Mobil 1 SM 0W-40 blend is still 10% lighter on start-up at 20C and 25% at 0C vs Mobil 1 5W-20.
https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/caterham-blend-mobil-0w40-sm-tgmo-0w20-sn.198118/

It's also cheaper to buy due to the low Cdn cost of TGMO than buying Mobil 1 5W-20.
But with a HTHSV of 3.0cP you'll have considerably more bearing protection at higher oil temp's than the "heavy" Mobil 1 5W-20 can provide.
A best of both worlds situation.

 

[demarpaint]

Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
Then your point for Clevy regarding Windsor engines would be that a higher than what is normally acceptably minimum OP is necessary when extracting maximum power.
Or to be more precise, from your experience a certain minimum OP spec' at high rev's is what you'd recommend for a stressed Windsor engine.

That being the case, then Clevy may or may not still be able to maintain your minimum recommended OP running Mobil 1 5W-20 when the oil is up to normal operating temp's, and if he can't he would be advised not to use full power.


Wouldn't he be better off just using an oil that would allow him to use full power, and not take any chances? Or did I miss something? Clevy?????????????

 

[Shannow]

No, it makes perfect sense to not use the full capability of your engine because the lubricant lacks the "headroom" to use full engine capability...look how many OEMs do it, to see how easily it is to justify it on your DD.

What might be even better is to fit a throttle stop at say half, 3/4 or thereabouts...

 

[demarpaint]

Originally Posted By: Shannow
No, it makes perfect sense to not use the full capability of your engine because the lubricant lacks the "headroom" to use full engine capability...look how many OEMs do it, to see how easily it is to justify it on your DD.

What might be even better is to fit a throttle stop at say half, 3/4 or thereabouts...


LOL I hear ya. I just don't get it in this application seeing his engine wasn't designed with an engine castration system. At least I don't think it was.......

 

[mauric3]

What about Pennzoil 0w20 ? Is the TGMO 0w20 still a better oil?

Im using TGMO 0w20 right now on my 8th gen civic r18 with purolator synthetic oil filter.. So far my gas mileage hasn't really gone up alot.. I'm just following the MM that comes with the civic.. i usually try to change oil before it hits 0% oil life.. Usually under 10k km...

 

[regal55]

Originally Posted By: CATERHAM

Fair enough, but when it comes to Toyotas no 0W-20 is more suitable than TGMO.


Not even the Mazda 0w20 SN ?

 

[CATERHAM]

Originally Posted By: regal55
Originally Posted By: CATERHAM

Fair enough, but when it comes to Toyotas no 0W-20 is more suitable than TGMO.

Not even the Mazda 0w20 SN ?

For a Toyota it's hard to argue against the OEM oil.

The relatively new Mazda high moly 0W-20 is a very interesting oil, but we don't know how well it holds up in service unlike TGMO.
We don't have one UOA on the Mazda oil yet.

 

[buster]

The durability of TGMO 0w20 is quite good compared to any 20 grade I've seen. I wouldn't use it unless your car calls for a 20 grade though. The oil is suprisingly shear stable for having a VI of over 200 and is uniquely formulated.

 

[Clevy]

Originally Posted By: demarpaint
Originally Posted By: Shannow
No, it makes perfect sense to not use the full capability of your engine because the lubricant lacks the "headroom" to use full engine capability...look how many OEMs do it, to see how easily it is to justify it on your DD.

What might be even better is to fit a throttle stop at say half, 3/4 or thereabouts...


LOL I hear ya. I just don't get it in this application seeing his engine wasn't designed with an engine castration system. At least I don't think it was.......

I only did this little experiment to see if there was any difference in oil pressure in my fairly high mile 302,and to see if there was any difference.
To be honest I like it. I beat that car like it owes me money. Revs quicker and has a bit more oomph off the line too but I have been playing with the timing lately too.
I just wanted to see,for myself,if this more modern,more shear stable lubricant was able to keep the antique 302 running well.
K
Sorry for the off topic posts.

 

[demarpaint]

^^That's what I thought, after all this is Bitog!

 

[USAFACE]

What is a good alternative to the Toyota 0-20.for the 4runner? The dealerships around me try to charge a arm and leg for it. My factory warranty will be out by the time the next oil change comes. Its hot and humid most of the year here in Houston, Texas. The 4runner sees about 60/40 highway/city I was doing the factory 10k mile OCI. Thanks

 

[Capa]

Originally Posted By: USAFACE
What is a good alternative to the Toyota 0-20.for the 4runner? The dealerships around me try to charge a arm and leg for it. My factory warranty will be out by the time the next oil change comes. Its hot and humid most of the year here in Houston, Texas. The 4runner sees about 60/40 highway/city I was doing the factory 10k mile OCI. Thanks
.

Mobil 1 Advanced Fuel Economy 0W-20, especially with Walmart's unbeatable price for 5 quart jugs.

 

[CATERHAM]

TGMO 0W-20 is also available in bulk to dealers so a deal can often be struck that way as was discussed in the following thread:
https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/tgmo-0w-20-available-in-bulk-for-4-52-l.198994/