Drlled & Grooved - for the beater?

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RnR

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Gents, what's the practicality of these 'Bay rotors (with/wihout pads) for everyday use on the beater/daily driver vehicle?

(I'm thinking of / not posting a link to, the BrakeMotive kits)
 
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why? It doesnt do anything performance wise and on a rotor of unknown quality, youre just opening up opportunity for failure of a rotor, IMO.
 
If you want to blow money on brakes get some top shelf pads and or better rubber/braided hoses. If the slotted rotors *for your car* were any good they'd sell them at Summit. Who are you going to go after on ebay if the rotor grenades in two years?
 
Well that's the issue... utility and quality. I'm already sitting on a set of NAPA Adaptive1's and am just trying to figure out what rotors to get.

I don't burn as many miles as I once did, so corrosion rate is perhaps one attribute to consider? These have some sort of zinc protection on 'em...
 
I use drilled/slotted on 2 of my cars because they look good and are zinc plated,these cars have very open wheels so old rusty looking stuff behind them just looks bad.

I used Bendix slotted,Brembo drilled,ATE drilled and cheap ones from brake motive.The brake motive were fine,no warping or cracking and lived as long as the others in street use even with some spirited braking.
So far they are holding up well after 2 yrs on one of the cars,no complaints.The expensive Brembo rotors didn't look good for very long but worked well enough.

IMO if its a visual thing they are okay but on cars that don't have large wheel openings its a waste of time.

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Years ago I put the EBC slotted/dimpled rotors on my car. The noise was bad! "click, click, click" all the time and it got louder when you stepped on the brakes! I never could figure out if it was the slots or the dimples?

Never again! Good pads and OEM style rotors!
 
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Boy racer looks for sure.


Depends on the car my old 930 whale tail had drilled OEM and it looked anything but "Boy racer".
A GTP with OEM starfish wheels looks good with them,not like some mickey mouse rattle trap with extras.
 
My car has slotteds specifically to address pad issues with the factory Brembo setup.

Otherwise no slots or holes for me. Seen too many drilled rotors crack at the edges of the holes.

The cars that have drilled rotors stock have lots of reserve braking capacity and can stand to give up the mass.

Nothing looks goofier than puny brakes behind monster wheels.
 
Drilled/slotted/dimpled rotors?
Sure... if you like:

Much more expensive.
Noisy!
Eat pads more
Retain water and dirt in the 'whatever' machining
Are nearly impossible to recut later.
Warp weirdly
Crack often
etc..

Other than that, they are decent.

I always remember Porsche Racing removing the stock fancy rotors and using plain ones for real racing.
 
Well, it looks like I better put plain Jane Wagners on the shopping list then. Reliability would likely be better.

Thanks, guys.
 
Originally Posted By: mechtech2
Drilled/slotted/dimpled rotors?
Sure... if you like:

Much more expensive.
Noisy!
Eat pads more
Retain water and dirt in the 'whatever' machining
Are nearly impossible to recut later.
Warp weirdly
Crack often
etc..

Other than that, they are decent.

I always remember Porsche Racing removing the stock fancy rotors and using plain ones for real racing.


Which brands are you specifically referring to in this list?
 
I have powerslot rotors on the Volvo and love them - better intial bite in the rain. Ceramic pads - 40K and very little wear on the pads or rotors...but for a beater? They're pricey. Interestingly, the M-B E350 rental car I am driving today has slotted front rotors (wonderful car by the way - one of the nicest I have ever driven...)

Good quality slotted rotors are a performance upgrade and work well...I use them on my Volvo DD, but only you can answer if a beater needs them...
 
ATE has slotted rotors. Much cheaper than the Powerslots and my opinion are better. I had Powerslot on my Ford Explorer but after the first brake change. It felt much worse than before. I like the ATE more than the Powerslot. That is what I put on my Merc 400E with slots. It is true though I have not seen any Mercs come with only slotted. All are cross-drilled. Probably the rental agency switched them out with slotted during brake change and originally came cross drilled. It is also true if you get your rotor that came orignally with just blanks or plain. If drilled even correctly. It will probably crack especially when wore over time. If you have the rotors turned or in this case pressed. It will probably have crack after a short while.
 
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Cross drilled rotors develop cracks...not good for daily drivers. You see them on luxo vehicles due to the necessary perception of bling. They really have absolutely no place on a vehicle of any type, and on a "normal" car with normal sized rotors, the loss of thermal mass due to cross drilling can negatively impact performance. You also have to take into account the venting design. Vented rotors have internal vanes that pump air through the rotor as it spins....imagine what would happen to this pumping action if drilled a bunch of holes in the rotor. Unless the internal vane structure was designed with these holes in mind, cross drilling is a big no no. Mind you, most of these mail order cross drilled rotors are simply conventional blanks that are drilled after the fact. They'll toss on some type of anti-rust coating to drive up the value factor, but you are really just buying basic cheap rotors that someone took a drill to (obviously its machine done, but you get the point).

And for additional effect, I'm going to restate the most important point. ALL cast iron cross drilled rotors develop cracks. Doesn't matter if they are off a Porsche or a civic...they crack at the cross drilled holes if pushed hard enough or used long enough. Only drilled rotors I've ever seen that hold up to the abuse are the carbo-ceramic variety...and you'll only find those on very expensive vehicles.

Slotted rotors on the other hand have their place...though once again, the applications are rather limited. The slots due indeed help evacuate debris that can get caught up between the pads and rotors...but that's about all they are good for. Modern pad materials don't outgas...so the whole "they vent the gas buildup from the pads" no longer applies. Furthermore they can impact NVH aspects...sometimes inducing a rumbling sound to the braking action. Lastly, they can increase pad wear.
So unless you are in a situation where debris is getting caught up in your brakes, take a pass. You'll often see touring cars using slotted rotors if they expect inclement whether while racing. Rally cars use them for more obvious reasons. But brake pads on a race car are replaced routinely...and they hardly care about NVH.


So what does this all mean? For a daily driver, buy a good set of solid rotors. Preferably ones that use the OEM venting design and come from a source with good metallurgy. Its been the case in the past where Chinese made rotors were of poor quality, butt they have improved over the years. If you look hard enough, you can often find US or Canadian made rotors.
If the issue of rust is important to you, then grab a role of masking tape and some high temp paint. If you prep the rotor before hand, and do a good job, the paint will hold up just as long as any zinc coating...not to mention you have a wide range of colors to choose from
smile.gif
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