Good to hear that there are some more people on the wagon. Considering for my 2.3 DISI. Post those results
Double-Super-Secret 5W-40 Audi RS4 Racing Oil
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Good to hear that there are some more people on the wagon. Considering for my 2.3 DISI. Post those results
Per Edmunds-dot-com;
http://www.edmunds.com/insideline/do/Drives/FullTests/articleId=115689
Audi RS4
Weight: 3981 lbs
Performance: 13.2sec in the 1/4 mile
As tested price: $73,870
Sorry to sound bitter (I guess), but this car might be the toughest on oil, but not on the competition, especially for the price.
My ex 02 Z28 Chevy ran 12.99@109mph bone stock!
Anyway, I e-mailed RLI to get a price quote on their 5W-30. As you may have noticed RI_RS4, my Mazda CX-7 (2.3L Turbo with DI) is also "fuel dilute happy." We'll see!
http://www.edmunds.com/insideline/do/Drives/FullTests/articleId=115689
Audi RS4
Weight: 3981 lbs
Performance: 13.2sec in the 1/4 mile
As tested price: $73,870
Sorry to sound bitter (I guess), but this car might be the toughest on oil, but not on the competition, especially for the price.
My ex 02 Z28 Chevy ran 12.99@109mph bone stock!
Anyway, I e-mailed RLI to get a price quote on their 5W-30. As you may have noticed RI_RS4, my Mazda CX-7 (2.3L Turbo with DI) is also "fuel dilute happy." We'll see!
Last_Z do you have any UOA of your oil?
Last_Z, I hope BioSyn works well in your Mazda. Let us know how it goes.
Actually, the Edmund's numbers are a bit conservative. RS4s driven well have run 12.8 @ 108 in the 1/4 mile. But, it's really not meant to be a drag car. It really shines on a road course, where it will compete with some other impressive European sports cars. Not bad for a 2-ton 4-door sedan. And try to get a Z28 to keep up on any corner, let alone in the rain.
high amount or GPIII or GPII??
bruce
bruce
agpatel,
Yes, I do have 2 UOAs. Look for them in the UOA section....1st or 2nd page!
RI_RS4,
You're right the Audi isn't a drag car, neither was my Z28 a corner carver. I did upgrade the suspension to Koni adjustable shocks and it made a big difference, probably in the 0.92+ Gs on the skidpad. I know....your Audi can probably do 1G or so...but the thing is too heavy. I assume you have AWD (an Audi trait), which is the main contributor to the cornering capabilities.
BTW, check the stats on the MazdaSpeed 3....it runs 13.3 or 13.6 in the 1/4!
Also, what should I believe? The 11.6% NOACK or what the sales guy says? I do not need a volatile oil in a gasoline flooded oil pan!
Yes, I do have 2 UOAs. Look for them in the UOA section....1st or 2nd page!
RI_RS4,
You're right the Audi isn't a drag car, neither was my Z28 a corner carver. I did upgrade the suspension to Koni adjustable shocks and it made a big difference, probably in the 0.92+ Gs on the skidpad. I know....your Audi can probably do 1G or so...but the thing is too heavy. I assume you have AWD (an Audi trait), which is the main contributor to the cornering capabilities.
BTW, check the stats on the MazdaSpeed 3....it runs 13.3 or 13.6 in the 1/4!
Also, what should I believe? The 11.6% NOACK or what the sales guy says? I do not need a volatile oil in a gasoline flooded oil pan!
Comparing handling based on skidpad ratings is like comparing speed based on engine displacement. Sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't.
The RS4 actually only gets 0.88 Gs, at the skidpad, and yes, it does weigh about 500-600 lbs more than your Z28. All that means on a race track is that if you both ease your cars into a long sweeper, yours might have an edge from the entrance to the apex.
From the apex on is an entirely different story. Ever tried to catch a car as fast as yours that started flooring it 3 seconds earlier? That's what it'd be like trying to catch an RS4 in your Z28 at the exit of a corner. The RS4's traction and stability are such that your Z28 would need 500+ hp and a long straightaway to make up the difference before the next corner.
There is quite a good bit more to the RS4's handling than AWD, especially when compared with a live-axle American muscle car. It only makes sense, really, considering the price delta...
Got mine for 20k too. Not sure what I'm going to do with all the extra money I could've spent
To those who might know: What else will the NOACK show? I too was looking at this number and comparing it to others (namely Motul...which is available near me).
Cheers.
Have you had the intake cam replaced per the tech bulletin yet? That may be the cause of all of the high iron readings in every 2.0T analysis we've seen. Reguardless I got a 5 gallon pale of this stuff too and im interested to see how it holds up.
d00df00d,
I never argued your points....I agree 100%!
gwood,
Have you done any UOAs? You can buy me a beer with the extra cash?
Also, can anyone e-mail me a price list for this super-duper-gas-eating-oil? They haven't answered my e-mail.
[email protected]
I never argued your points....I agree 100%!
gwood,
Have you done any UOAs? You can buy me a beer with the extra cash?
Also, can anyone e-mail me a price list for this super-duper-gas-eating-oil? They haven't answered my e-mail.
[email protected]
Doing a UOA with Terry on my break in fill now...I'll post when I have the numbers (oil looked HORRID). Really more for fun more than anything else to be honest being it's so early (1900 miles on the factory fill).
I'd be happy to buy you a beer...you deserve one
I hate to make a mindless OT suggestion, but it's partly a question too. Has anyone here tried or considered Redline SAE 40? I know, personally, at least one championship pro racing team using it under similar parameters.
Redline is a POE/PAO blend and as such has shown to be about as good as Motul in actual operation in this application. Loads of Moly didn't help either. NOACK on the improved HOBS has not been published publicly as far as I know. Needless to say I did not lead RI_RS4, (a professional level paying customer) to a product that would be unnecessarily volatile.
The straight weight Redline oils are not suited to street driving as they lack certain additives.
The RLI SAE40 is a 10w40 and properly additized for BOTH racing and street driving. With a flash approaching 500F open cup I doubt volatility in actual analysis and observation will be an issue.
If the BIOSYN 5w40 data that RI_RS4 has been kind enough to share here for free is not enough to at least get you thinking then avoid the product. I can assure you the RLI formulas are being looked at closely by anyone that is active in the R&D lubes field as an answer to getting OFF foreign oil sourced petroleum based products and requiring GF5+ level protection and lubricity. Count the DOD in that too since their BIOSYN /HOBS Hydraulic fluids for combat vehicles are safer to the crew of damaged tanks and tracked combat vehicles.
If buying a lube at walmart and saving a few bucks is more important than supporting technology that is LITERALLY home grown then by all means enjoy the freedom of making that choice with your cash.
I like supporting what works whether it is Odis Beavers LC and FP, Frank Millers Auto-RX, or in this case Bill Garmiers RLI BIOSYN formulas, made in OHIO, USA.
The straight weight Redline oils are not suited to street driving as they lack certain additives.
The RLI SAE40 is a 10w40 and properly additized for BOTH racing and street driving. With a flash approaching 500F open cup I doubt volatility in actual analysis and observation will be an issue.
If the BIOSYN 5w40 data that RI_RS4 has been kind enough to share here for free is not enough to at least get you thinking then avoid the product. I can assure you the RLI formulas are being looked at closely by anyone that is active in the R&D lubes field as an answer to getting OFF foreign oil sourced petroleum based products and requiring GF5+ level protection and lubricity. Count the DOD in that too since their BIOSYN /HOBS Hydraulic fluids for combat vehicles are safer to the crew of damaged tanks and tracked combat vehicles.
If buying a lube at walmart and saving a few bucks is more important than supporting technology that is LITERALLY home grown then by all means enjoy the freedom of making that choice with your cash.
I like supporting what works whether it is Odis Beavers LC and FP, Frank Millers Auto-RX, or in this case Bill Garmiers RLI BIOSYN formulas, made in OHIO, USA.
Thanks for clearing up about Redline here. I was wondering about it.
Read the whole thread and this oil seems pretty impressive so far.
Terry, since you're answering questions in this thread, I was wondering if you could provide your opinion of the suitability of this oil for my car.
It's a modded Mitsubishi 3000GT VR4 twin turbo. The engine has been rebuilt with Crower rods and Ross pistons with a slight overbore to 3.1 liters. Bearing clearances are 0.0017" for both the mains and rods. The turbo kit uses 2 TD05 16G's (The Evo III used to come with one of these) and had dyno's in the mid-500 awhp level at about 20 psi (513awhp @ 17psi).
The car is street driven (I drive it to work) and run hard on roadcourses. One of the things that appeals to me with this RLI oil is the resistance to fuel dilution since making the power and avoiding knock requires the tune to be a little rich at the top end.
The question is, will this oil be a good option in a heavily modded turbo engine running extended durations at 5000rpm and up? The car does have an oil cooler. How do you think it would handle the extreme heat and stress in a twin turbocharged engine producing 200+ crank HP per liter? These cars have been shown to have drivetrain losses around 25%, so 525awhp is approx. 700 crank HP.
Thus far, I've been using Redline or Motul 300V 10w40, but I'm always interested if there's something that's potentially better.
Max
Terry, since you're answering questions in this thread, I was wondering if you could provide your opinion of the suitability of this oil for my car.
It's a modded Mitsubishi 3000GT VR4 twin turbo. The engine has been rebuilt with Crower rods and Ross pistons with a slight overbore to 3.1 liters. Bearing clearances are 0.0017" for both the mains and rods. The turbo kit uses 2 TD05 16G's (The Evo III used to come with one of these) and had dyno's in the mid-500 awhp level at about 20 psi (513awhp @ 17psi).
The car is street driven (I drive it to work) and run hard on roadcourses. One of the things that appeals to me with this RLI oil is the resistance to fuel dilution since making the power and avoiding knock requires the tune to be a little rich at the top end.
The question is, will this oil be a good option in a heavily modded turbo engine running extended durations at 5000rpm and up? The car does have an oil cooler. How do you think it would handle the extreme heat and stress in a twin turbocharged engine producing 200+ crank HP per liter? These cars have been shown to have drivetrain losses around 25%, so 525awhp is approx. 700 crank HP.
Thus far, I've been using Redline or Motul 300V 10w40, but I'm always interested if there's something that's potentially better.
Max
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